Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




    • CommentAuthorcrt
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2009
     
    We're being told by an architect that there is no point putting more than 200mm of rockwool in our loft space as the roof is not sealed. (The insulation will go on the floor between the joists).

    Apart from being less than the building regs requirement, I'd always understood the rule here was as much as possible (we won't use the space for storage).

    Can anyone confirm whether or not the architect's view is reasonable, and if not, point we towards some authoritative source to contradict him?

    Many thanks.
    • CommentAuthorbampton
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2009
     
    I know it's not fair to ask - and I know that you probably wouldn't, but I'd love it if you named and shamed this individual. Architects are not cheap, and individuals put a lot of trust in their expertise. I think it's immoral for a professional in a position of trust to be dishing out such bad advice....

    Anyway I wouldn't know where to start with authoritative sources as there are so many. EST perhaps, Part L etc., - you will be inundated I expect.

    It's like him advising you not to bother putting a lock on the front door because the crime figures are down this year i.e. stupid, bad advice.

    You should be putting 400mm up there, between and over the joists and if possible as a continous layer with your wall insulation (assuming he didn't design that out).
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2009
     
    200mm does not even meet current building regs!

    I would like to see 350mm or more and the bare minimum to meet regs is insufficient in my opinion.
    • CommentAuthorsquowse
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2009
     
    the fact that the roof is not sealed is all the more reason to have as much as possible. ie cold air will come in and take away the heat emitted through the ceiling.
    • CommentAuthortrule
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2009
     
    Your architect may be right. If the roof is not sealed and there is a fair amount of air movement then the effectiveness of the insulation is significantly reduced...so adding more is kind of pointless.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2009 edited
     
    A so called cold roof should NOT be sealed. It should be deliberately ventilated to prevent condensation forming on the timbers. The normal recommendation are vents in both eaves with an area equivalent to a full length slot of around 12mm.

    It's a nonsense to say that ventilation makes extra insulation pointless. At the very least the extra insulation will improve the effectiveness of the bottom 200mm by isolating it from the airflow in the roof. For example lets assume that the ventilation reduces the effectivness of the top 50mm of the insulation. If you just have 200mm that means that 150mm is fully effective. If you have 400mm that means 350mm is effective. So adding extra still produces a gain.
  1.  
    Excellent post Colin
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2009
     
    I have seen it written (somewhere but cant remember where!)that in some countries it is normal practice to put building paper between layers of insulation and on top to stop air circulation and hence degrade overall insulation value.
    • CommentAuthortrule
    • CommentTimeMay 27th 2009 edited
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: CWatters</cite> For example lets assume that the ventilation reduces the effectivness of the top 50mm of the insulation.</blockquote>

    Lets assume that the insulation is not tight fitting, and in several layers, so the ventilation caused circulation in and around the insulation medium making the insulation largely ineffective regardless of thickness. Lets add to our wonderful assumption that the light fitting recesses are not sealed either with the resultant air flow through the insulation material further reducing the effectiveness of the insulation.

    Of course we could assume lots of things...
  2.  
    Trule, can I ask if you are you referring to mineral wool type material? or rigid slab such as PUR?
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMay 27th 2009
     
    Posted By: trule
    Posted By: CWattersFor example lets assume that the ventilation reduces the effectivness of the top 50mm of the insulation.


    Lets assume that the insulation is not tight fitting, and in several layers, so the ventilation caused circulation in and around the insulation medium making the insulation largely ineffective regardless of thickness. Lets add to our wonderful assumption that the light fitting recesses are not sealed either with the resultant air flow through the insulation material further reducing the effectiveness of the insulation.

    Of course we could assume lots of things...


    It's why I think we should consider banning so called "cold roof" designs and mandating "warm roof" with the insulation above the rafters or perhaps SIPs.
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2009 edited
     
    I declare an interest - I am an architectural technician

    The architects view MAY be reasonable - in the context of your ( I assume ) existing property , your budget , and your brief to him . Without this overview - he has been unfairly damned here by some .

    As for b regs compliance - well that is not as straight forward to determine either - see pages 17 + 23 here

    http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADL1B_2006.pdf

    The "required U value" is to say the least flexible in the case of extensions + refurbs .

    So taking a wholistic approach - and not simply zoning in on one aspect of your project in isolation - 200 quilt may be very good advice .

    IF we are talking new build - then .... damn the man - I agree with most of the criticism
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2009
     
    but why should existing and new build be any different?
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2009
     
    In b regs terms - they simply are .

    If the op has an existing house and no desire and / or funds to alter the roof fabric - then 200mm may well fit the bill without causing the risk of choking off the existing vent paths at the eaves . Maybe this is an "internal only" project i.e. no budget for scaffolding or other hard to reach works . Maybe limited funds have to be spread around lots of items to gain maximum effect - my over-arching point is - there is as yet no context to this query
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2009 edited
     
    I think that's a good point Sinnerboy- we do need more informatio to be sure. In some instances, 200mm may achieve compliance, such as renovation of thermal elements, but if we are talking about new build [as you say] or an extension, then the requirement is 0.16W/m2K -so 200mm not enough
    Edit: should have said 200mm mineral wool or similar
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009 edited
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>200mm does not even meet current building regs!

    I would like to see 350mm or more and the bare minimum to meet regs is insufficient in my opinion.</blockquote>

    This post got 2 positive votes - but it is factually wrong if we are talking about extensions and renovations . Download the relevant Technical Guidance Document to see this .
    • CommentAuthorJulian
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009
     
    Sinnerboy, the point Tony made about putting in 350mm was, as he said, an opinion. One point seems to be that really we should be looking at how much could be put in, rather than how little. The regulations (whether for new build or existing) are for a minimum not an optimum amount.
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009 edited
     
    "Can anyone confirm 1 ) whether or not the architect's view is reasonable, and if not, 2 ) point we towards some authoritative source to contradict him?"

    That is the OP's query . ( I have inserted the numbers )

    1.
    The Architect in his absence has been damned here which is a shame if the OP loses confidence in him needlessly . No one here apart from the OP has an overview of this project . The Architect has . His advice may well be reasonable.
    2.
    Assuming we are not talking new build - the correct TGD link has been posted here . I would consider that an
    "authoritative source" ... but it won't "contradict him"

    I for one would welcome crt back at this point .

    200mm may be the answer in his/her case - it MAY BE the optimum amount given other constraints we don't know about - and the architect does

    Why not put in 700mm ?
    http://www.scanhome.ie/archive/S09%20Super%20Passive%20-%20single%20storey.pdf

    I can't say and neither can anyone else who has not seen the OP's house
    • CommentAuthorcrt
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009
     
    Thanks for all that interesting comment and debate. The house is old, and we are upgrading the insulation in the roof space at the same time as re-roofing. We have discussed this further with the architect and he has backtracked from the reasoning around non-sealed roof, and has said

    "in my experience once you get over 200mm Rockwool, which gives you .22 on its own, the savings are so minimal as the thickness increases you are far better spending the money on other things like windows which let out most of the heat as this will make the greatest saving in the reduction of energy loss". [We can't replace the windows as the building is Grade II listed].

    However, he's now also said that as we have about 70mm of existing Rockwool we will have 270mm altogether.

    In light of my own researches and comments above, we are specifying 300mm of new Rockwook which will give us nearly 400mm altogether.
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009
     
    thanks for coming back crt

    whilst your timbers are exposed - ensure you apply preservative at the roof edges - including to the wallplates

    ensure that the roof is ventilated at the pinch point where the rockwool meets the felt

    http://rwiumbraco-gb.inforce.dk/media/73556/roll-sec.pdf

    http://www.glidevale.com/roofspace_ventilation.html
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009
     
    Good for you crt.
  3.  
    Sinnerboy, you say:

    ''(1) whilst your timbers are exposed - ensure you apply preservative at the roof edges - including to the wallplates

    (2)ensure that the roof is ventilated at the pinch point where the rockwool meets the felt "

    If (2), why do you feel (1) is necessary? Provided there is proper detailing of ventilation, the roof timbers should, one hopes, be in no more need of treatment than they ever were, and if they are original the chances are they never were treated. I'm a great believer in reducing the pre-conditions for rot and then not treating. But no, I don't give guarantees, and I don't have a complete answer for woodworm....

    Do you think that perhaps failure to fully achieve (2) might render the timbers at more risk of being damp?
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009
     
    Nick - what if during the coming years the gutters are not cleared ? The slates are damaged and not spotted ? If for some reason the vents are either missing or , if present , compromised by insects or vegetation ? If through neglect the local fabric ( pointing ) admits water ?

    The application of treatment now to joist / rafter feet and wallplates could see off the risk of future rot
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009
     
    Dry wood is of no interest to woodworm or fungal spores. Construction timber should not need to be treated as it should never be getting wet or even damp.
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite> Construction timber should not need to be treated as it should never be getting wet or even damp.</blockquote>

    But it does happen Tony . Through neglect as I outlined above - also
    rads leak
    rwps crack and leak
    carefully placed insulations and vapour barriers do get displaced by uncaring or ignorant follow on workers / users

    For the sake of the judicious application of preservative - the risks can and should be mitigated
  4.  
    Sinnerboy, I agree with you about the risks, and I agree with Tony. I accept that maintenance isn't always what it should be, but this 'allow for the worst case' policy would have us treat every single piece of (structural, not decorative) constructional timber. Surely we *should* be designing out risks. And if we have to treat - boron-based.
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009 edited
     
    Posted By: tonyDry wood is of no interest to woodworm or fungal spores. Construction timber should not need to be treated as it should never be getting wet or even damp.


    .....and even if it does get damp it will dry out again if adequate ventilation is present

    Wet rot in roof timbers is rare.. dry rot even rarer

    Edit. obviously serious roof leaks are different - i'm referring here to dampness, such as that caused by a slipped slate or poor flashings for example
  5.  
    Just a point of reference from this side of the pond where timber frame construction is the norm: nobody uses treated wood in residential construction except maybe for the sole plate that sits on top of the concrete wall of the basement/foundation. Everything else is regular kiln dried SPF (spruce/pine/fir) dimensional lumber. This includes the roof trusses - all regular KD SPF.

    Paul in Montreal
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009 edited
     
    Do you have a thriving dry rot industry in Canada Paul ? Because we do here . I have seen enough perished wall plates in historic structures and the consequential loss of decorative cornicing during structural repair works to urge the op with his/her listed property- treat the timbers
  6.  
    Maybe in the maritime areas they do (milder and damper) but not where I am. But I think people keep their properties warmer here than is usual in the UK - so there's less condensation issues in general (excepting the notorious condo scandal in British Columbia). It is interesting to see different recommendations in different areas - sometimes they make sense, sometimes they don't. One nice thing about this forum is that there are inputs from different places so it does tend to broaden one's perspective (of course, I did live in the UK for around 30 years).

    Paul in Montreal.
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press