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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    In our old houses, I have used lots of different silicones and acrylic caulks and PU foams to draft-proof gaps, such as around window frames and skirting boards. Some are sold as non-shrinking, but even so, after a few years they all seem to shrink a little and the crack reopens.

    Has anyone found a good gap-sealing goop that stays sealed for many years?

    Ideally it would be paintable and allow a little movement.
  2.  
    I really like burnt sand (or 'oil-sand') mastic - linseed oil and sharp sand. Not sure about 'allow a little movement' but I have it around my Green Bldg Store windows installed in 2014 (goes out for a quick look!). Good job I did, as it's just starting to deteriorate on one window (crazing) but on the other it is as tight as the bottom of a duck, with no discernible gaps. Time to buy a tub! If you have never used it it looks just like mortar 'ribbon-pointing' (apart from the fact that the fitters did triangular fillets when I'd normally do rectangular, but it looks fine. Can take a pic if you want.

    Hope that helps. Nick

    **Edit to insert comma, in case anyone should ask about ducks with no discernible gaps!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2022
     
    How about expanding sealing tape, generically called compriband but now actually improved such as https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/contega-fiden-exo, no doubt less premium-price brands too, and Compriband is still sold, probably improved. I'd love advice on best value brand.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2022
     
    I would see what the motorhome and caravan dealers/ manufacturers use they get lots of exposure to weather and movement 60 mph into the wind in driving rain is a test for any sealant.


    Posted By: fostertomHow about expanding sealing tape, generically called compriband but now actually improved such ashttps://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/contega-fiden-exo," rel="nofollow" >https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/contega-fiden-exo,no doubt less premium-price brands too, and Compriband is still sold, probably improved. I'd love advice on best value brand.


    I have had very mixed performance from expanding foam tapes in my experience they do not perform well in very exposed situations. Driving drain does saturate them and they can work like a sponge and track water downwards like a pipe water and will find any weak spots in your construction and let in. Very good at draughtproofing. I still use it but would not entertain it in exposed situations without a proper sealant behind it.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: revorI have had very mixed performance from expanding foam tapes in my experience they do not perform well in very exposed situations. Driving drain does saturate them and they can work like a sponge and track water downwards like a pipe water and will find any weak spots in your construction and let in. Very good at draughtproofing. I still use it but would not entertain it in exposed situations without a proper sealant behind it.
    Yes, it's a first line of defense that needs either a sealant behind or some kind of well-detailed flashing / tray to direct the water out. Get that right and the plus is that, when used to seal against timber, the permeability of the foam should enable dampness to evaporate, rather than it being trapped behind an imperfect impermeable sealant where it may contribute to decay. Which is why I've specified it for some exposed timber windows on a project next year.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2022 edited
     
    Interesting - so the tape can be a sheltered in-the-crack (between window and wall) substitute for a sealant bead in the external angle (in the full blast and UV-exposed). But accept that it soaks up water (but later dries out, as does the window) as well as directing it to run downward so, like a trad vertical DPC it needs a properly detailed tray to catch the downward and direct it outward. Sounds robust, instead of relying on magic mastic to never develop a leak or part from the surfaces. And good for airtightness.
    • CommentAuthorOtterbank
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2022
     
    I use Sika Flex marine, expensive but good. Used on the house build 12 years ago and on various metal roofs around the place.
    Michael
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2022
     
    Unfortunately, to use expanding tape in-the-crack, draining down to a proper tray to direct the flow outward, which sounds robust in a traditional kind of way, instead of relying on sealant exposed on at the surface, can't be used with EWI, which requires the self-adhesive frame-bead at the surface where EWI meets window (to which I add a good sealant bead).
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2022
     
    I've never had a problem with expanding foam tapes, they are ideal for uneven gap filling, you just need to select the right one. The impregnated ones made for exterior application are fine, IMO. You can always belt and brace the job with a mastic bead over the top to give an even appearance.
  3.  
    Thanks everyone! Some very good suggestions and products.

    What do people use on the inside of the (old) house to seal joins between existing parts of the building (eg to seal off the underside of the window board or skirting boards, to stop airflow from the room into the rubble fill of the wall)?
    • CommentAuthorLF
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2022 edited
     
    If you do need sealant that does not crack then +1 for Sikaflex used in caravans/motorhomes. It deals with lots of flex and differential expansion of materials with temperature changes. I think you can paint it also - need to check.

    I have also been using CT1 as a heavy duty sealant. Again expensive but is stronger and better than normal silicon sealants. CT1 you can paint like caulking so if caulking is cracking it could be a good alternative inside. You cannot paint normal silicon.

    For inside sealing around the house I used low expanding Soudal genius - squashing the straw to get nozzle into gaps. Mine is a 50s house with cavity. It bonds everything together and helps to seal things up. This helps the final seal not having to hold the movement of the wood / plastic etc on its own.

    I
  4.  
    Thanks again everyone for good advice. I'll try those ideas!
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