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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2020
     
    I've started and commented on a number of discussions relating to the issue of overheating in our passivhaus new build and received some excellent advice - however I still need to do something before next summer and would appreciate your thought on another option.

    Firstly, we will replace the MVHR unit next year - an old Titon unit - with one that allows us to use summer by-pass when we need it rather than the machine deciding for us. This will allow us to move some of the daytime heat out during the cooler evenings. However, one of the big heat sources in our house is the solar-panel fed 400l hot water tank that gets pretty warm in the summer, just when we don't want a big "storage radiator" in the house. I was thinking yesterday of maybe installing an extension to the extract ventilation system into the airing cupboard to extract some of the heat - usable in the winter months and with the summer by-pass in operation, a chance to remove some of the heat in the summer.

    Any thoughts guys?

    Thanks, regards, Jonathan
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2020
     
    Simple extract from the airing cbd to loft, cheapest 100mm fan and I would let outdoor in too

    Possible stuff sleeping bags and quilts round it in the summer might work

    Shade the windows externally, especially west facing ones
  1.  
    If you reduce the air temperature in the airing cupboard by say 10degC, the driving force for heat losses from the tank will increase accordingly, so it will give out more heat losses which you don't want anytime.

    If you suck more air out of the house it will have to be replaced by air drawn from outside, which can itself be uncomfortably hot during summer.

    As someone said you need an awful lot of airflow to move a small amount of heat, maybe more airflow than a mhrv branch could do.

    Have you tried
    - adding more insulation to the tank walls - I built a PIR box round our cylinder - lining the airing cupboard walls with PIR or duvets would help too?
    - reducing the temperature of water in the tank during the summer and/or only heating the top part of the tank - you presumably don't get through 400l of steaming hot water in a day? (But consider legionella).
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2020
     
    Posted By: CerisyFirstly, we will replace the MVHR unit next year - an old Titon unit - with one that allows us to use summer by-pass when we need it rather than the machine deciding for us.

    I find the automatic control in our Brink unit to be exactly what I want - it allows me to tweak the temperature it opens at and the hysteresis before it closes and once I'd set those as I wanted it's worked well. Having to turn it on and off manually would be a pain.

    However, one of the big heat sources in our house is the solar-panel fed 400l hot water tank that gets pretty warm in the summer, just when we don't want a big "storage radiator" in the house. I was thinking yesterday of maybe installing an extension to the extract ventilation system into the airing cupboard to extract some of the heat - usable in the winter months and with the summer by-pass in operation, a chance to remove some of the heat in the summer.

    Our tank is in a cupboard in our utility room, which has an MVHR extract vent. The tank has whatever foam insulation it came with (I don't remember - it's a Gledhill) and then I've stuffed some old duvets around it to fill up the cupboard, carefully keeping the temperature-sensitive parts out of the insulation. The windowless utility room gets a couple of degrees warmer than the adjacent south-facing kitchen in summer but that isn't a problem for us. I know some other people have had problems but I don't understand what's different between the situations. So ventilation definitely helps and extra insulation is important.

    Posted By: tonyShade the windows externally, especially west facing ones

    Yep, we've added flyscreens to our east- and west-facing windows, which allows us to open them in summer and also usefully screens some of the sun.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2020
     
    Is the tank and surrounding pipework fully insulated? Our tank has 75mm of sprayed on foam and it sits in a ground floor boiler room in the centre of the house with all the pipework insulated. With the 250 ltr tank contents sat at 70+ in the summer the boiler room is one of the coolest rooms in the house.

    Maybe worth double chdcking all the hot pipework is fully insulated, particularly the solar feed as that gets pretty hot. Also check the immersion is insulated.
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2020
     
    I'm interested in your issue with the Titon by pass control - not in anyway doubting it doesn't do what you want, but rather hoping we might be able to save you the cost and landfill impact of replacing it.

    The issue I've had, and seen on other units, is that there is a minimum outdoor temp, below which it will not permit summer by-pass. In theory, that stops cold drafts, however, with most of the night just below this minimum temp limit, and the morning temp rising quite quickly, that gives very little time to cool the house down.

    I moved the external air sensor, to fool the unit, temporarily, but I'm sure there are smarter ways, like adding a resistor in series/paralell (depending on the senor), and being able to switch that in for the offending weeks each year.

    This may not be your issue, but if you wouldn't mind sharing a little more detail, I rather have a shot at saving £1500 for a new MVHR, than 5 bobs worth of heat removal, environmentally speaking :smile:

    More insulation around your thermal store & pipes is boringly obvious, but none the less true for being so.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2020
     
    Thanks for the feedback guys.

    Insulating the tank - it only has the insulation it came with so packing more round it will help, but the insulation will slow the heating of the house, not stop it. The feed from the panels is through the roof space and directly into the top of the tank on the first floor, so although the pipes are too much of a problem, the tank heats up all the areas around it - including the floor I guess!

    Simple fan into the roof space to use in the summer is a neat idea tony, especially as it could shift a lot more air than the MVHR I guess! We do open windows on the tilt and turn, although living in the country and surrounded by dairy farms we do have issues with flies!! I'll think on about getting power across!!

    All the first floor windows have solar powered external shutters which help and the south facing ground floor windows are covered by a deep porch, so not a lot more to do there.

    GreenPaddy - we bought the Titon unit in 2012 and it was cheap (probably out of date then!!). The summer by-pass works off the temp of the incoming air and was coming on at such random times (at full speed which sounded like being next to Heathrow) we had to fit a control switch to switch it off. As it is a Titon unit (and they have offered a 10% discount as we are replacing an older version!) I wanted to replace it with similar so all the fittings and fixings would be the same, but the latest model has a decent control panel option that we can utilise to set the bu-pass when we need it. I'm more than happy to work the controls if it eases the stress of summer overheating, especially as the next option would be AC units working off PV panels.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2020
     
    Posted By: GreenPaddybut if you wouldn't mind sharing a little more detail

    We've discussed this issue before a couple of times - last year, for example - if you want more detail :bigsmile:

    Posted By: CerisyAs it is a Titon unit (and they have offered a 10% discount as we are replacing an older version!) I wanted to replace it with similar so all the fittings and fixings would be the same, but the latest model has a decent control panel option that we can utilise to set the bu-pass when we need it. I'm more than happy to work the controls if it eases the stress of summer overheating, especially as the next option would be AC units working off PV panels.

    The latest Titon units look quite sensible - they even have one that is PH-certified provided you buy the right options with it. Have you fixed the windows to enable you to open them whilst also reducing solar gain in summer?

    An extract fan or an extract vent to the MVHR sound like a good idea to me. You can always close/stop it in winter if you wish. As long as you wrap a lot of insulation around the tank, you won't lose too much heat from the tank and it will make a big contribution to controlling the temperature in the house.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2020
     
    Thanks djh - something to think about during the weird Christmas we are going to experience!!
  2.  
    Was thinking about this regarding our cylinder - the specified heat loss is ~ 1.3kWh each day which is equivalent to about 50W. Yours is a bit bigger, but not a lot.

    Would be surprising if an extra 50W was sufficient heat to cause the house to overheat?? Or worth running a 20W fan to extract it?

    Is there definitely no other larger source of heat loss in the airing cupboard - bare pipes, or that skinny foam pipe insulation that is only half an inch thick?

    The heat loss from our cylinder corresponds to a U value of ~0.5 W/mK for the factory fitted insulation, which is not great considering how hot the water is, so I added PIR board to upgrade it. Might take a while to payback.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2020
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenWould be surprising if an extra 50W was sufficient heat to cause the house to overheat?

    It won't be enough by itself to overheat the house, but it's enough to notice.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2020
     
    The heat loss for my whole house was calculated to be 60W in the average October
  3.  
    Tony, your house is well renowned, but 60W is the body heat from four cats. If the house only loses 60W of heat in October, and a fifth cat came to visit, the house would overheat.... they couldn't allow any people into the house (100W each, way too hot!).

    Only kidding. Are you sure that figure was really the total heat loss, and it wasn't perhaps the external heating requirement after accounting for solar and incidental gains?

    How much heat does your hot water cylinder lose into the house, have you put any special insulation on it?

    http://www.c60design.co.uk/many-cats-take-heat-passive-house/
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2020
     
    Yes, sorry, not total heat loss but as you suggest extra heat requirement, so I need four cats instead of a boiler.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2020
     
    I agree / understand that the tank isn't the primary source of the excess heat, but it's part of the problem and I'm just trying to deal with each of the sources (hence the expensive external shutters on the first floor windows).

    We also have a 3m wide french door / window arrangement that faces east and gathers all the early morning sun. Again, not a huge source, but we will fit an awning once the patio outside is finished, to reduce that problem. At our advanced ages we are struggling with the higher internal temperatures.
    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2020
     
    We also have a 3 m wide french door / window arrangement that faces east and gathers all the early morning sun.

    If you are in the Northern Hemisphere I would not bother about this aspect of the house .

    Generally it is the heat from 1000 hrs on that causes the problem .


    Do you actually need all this hot water within the envelope in the summer ?

    if not,- why not either shade the collector or if that is not possible by diverting the collected heat to a radiator outside the envelope .
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2020
     
    Posted By: bxmanDo you actually need all this hot water within the envelope in the summer ?

    When you collect heat from the sun, it's very useful to store it when it's available, since there can easily be periods of several days even in summer when there is very little collected.
    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2020
     
    When you collect heat from the sun, it's very useful to store it;

    in winter for sure but in the height of summer it becomes an embarrassment .


    We do not know how many occupants there are in Jonathan's household .

    But 400 l of DHW that has been heated by solar without any thermostatic control is often in the >70 deg range .



    I do not think I would use 400 l of high temp water in a month.

    I have no stored DHW and heat on demand.

    like most my water to create hot drinks comes from a cold supply
    which I would think probably accounts for another 3 l a day .
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2020
     
    Posted By: bxmanin winter for sure but in the height of summer it becomes an embarrassment .

    No, I specifically said "there can easily be periods of several days even IN SUMMER".

    And heat in a tank isn't embarrassing if the tank is well insulated and ventilated. The size of the tank won't matter all that much. I expect there is some temperature control since allowing it to boil is dangerous.

    Heat on demand is a fine policy but doesn't work with solar heat.
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