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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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General: Verge

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1 to 17 of 17

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    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeFeb 18th 2022 edited
     
    What ho one and all,

    When I built the house, I used Nu Lok (https://nulokroofing.com/uk/) tiles and am very pleased with them. however, NuLok do not have a very good verge solution so had to 'fabricate something.

    Used the L shaped metal edging that is usually used as the verge for corrugated roofing. It laps over the tiles by around 120mm and has a vertical drop of a similar measurement. It is not actively 'fixed to the tiles, only nailed to the vertical timber of the roof edge. it has sufficient tile coverage to prevent any water ingress, but as it is not stepped to match the tiles, the wind and dust / leaves can enter.

    All been good for ten years until today's storm, when one edge had 'vibrated' the nails out and is dangling, as the photo.

    Obviously, I will have to repair. But my question: is there an alternative product that is possible to 'step' to match the steps of the tiles and so give a better seal on the top surface?

    Don't really think lead is a goer, but it may be?

    As an aside, the facia is uPVC and needs it annual wipe down!

    Thanks
      Roof (Medium).jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 18th 2022
     
    Why not soakers, usually lead but could be any roofing metal, or short lengths of PVC L-section
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 18th 2022
     
    Cloaked tiles or ‘cloakers’, what tiles are they?
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeFeb 18th 2022
     
    Did not know about soakers, but should have as I do have some on the house.

    Only challenging part is that I would like them black!

    It may be that lead would be a better bet. Comes in long lengths and can be hammered to make a snug fit over the tile step.

    The other issue is that we have two mono-pitch roofs and the verge on the other side was rattling with the wind. Would not take much for this to come off. This one and the other are the leeward side of the house,, the windward side is OK, but it woulb nice if, whatever I do to restore, all verges match.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 18th 2022
     
    Posted By: fostertomWhy not soakers, usually lead but could be any roofing metal, or short lengths of PVC L-section
    Soakers seem to be designed to solve the opposite problem?

    https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/browse/pitched-roofing/soakers.html
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 18th 2022
     
    That is why I call them cloakers🙂
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 19th 2022
     
    Whatever, the principle is that bits of flat sheet material are interleaved between the tiles, so they fit tight to their surface without having to be shaped lengthwise (but bent either up or down, depending, at the tiles' verge edge)
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2022
     
    Not sure that soakers are the way to go as the current verge trim is around 2 m long.

    When I built the house (15 years ago), I bought the verge trim from SigRoofing (it is Kami Verge Trim 3) and today, it is not longer available in the UK. I have been in contact with the Swedish manufacturer and I can still obtain it, with a very high transport cost, but may be insurance will pay?

    This trim is intended for corrugated roofing, and should be screwed on the vertical and top surfaces. That is not possible with my tiles and I doubt that it is possible to drill through the tile and into the batten below.

    So the problem is, how to 'lock' the trim to the tile so that is cannot lift if/when the wind gets under it. I have been playing with bent ali or brass to slide under the tile and just catch the trim edge. Works in principle but it does not stay 'locked' under the tile and then falls away.

    The tiles are NuLok (https://nulokroofing.com/uk/) and each tile is around 9mm thick, sitting above the tile with a 1-2 mm gap.

    So I am wondering if the great and good on this forum have any ideas/thoughts that are simple to implement?
      20220224_144143 (Medium).jpg
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2022 edited
     
    I have NuLok and they fitted a really good Aluminium verge. I think the verge fitted, was dependent on the installers.

    I'd go and take a picture, but it is covered in snow!

    Pretty sure it is this, I remember it being white inside (the Slate Trim (Type 2))

    https://www.lbsproducts.com/roofing-accessories/dry-fix-roofing-accessories/verge-systems
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2022
     
    Pic 1
      IMG_0661.JPG
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2022
     
    Pic 2 - almost as I remember it.
      IMG_0660.JPG
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2022 edited
     
    I think your problem may be if the tiles are not cut close enough to the facia board (i.e. are too short). My tiles effectively hang over the facia inside the verge trim.

    Have to say I was extremely happy with this finish.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2022
     
    Posted By: RexNot sure that soakers are the way to go as the current verge trim is around 2 m long.
    Soakers can handle any length of verge - one soaker per tile.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2022
     
    Edge batten will get wet and possible noise from the verge trim too

    First time I have seen metal battens!
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: tonyEdge batten will get wet and possible noise from the verge trim too

    First time I have seen metal battens!
    Been on now for 10 years and absolutely no bother.

    Beats the old verge & cement and individual tile edges hands down!

    I don't have a close up of the finished roof at that area.

    The system is really good, just never totally took off. I'd certainly use it again and having looked at their website, might go for the Solar tiles.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeMar 1st 2022
     
    With the exception of my roof design, which could have been thought through better at the initial stage, I am more than pleased with my NuLok roof tiles.

    Apart from the ease of installation, there were two reasons that I went for them. We collect rainwater in a 6k underground tank. I wanted as close to 100% run off as possible. The other reason was that most tiles have quite a lot of grit that washes off over time. Again, I did not want to collect grit.

    As another minor plus, it is a 10 second job to remove any tile and about the same to replace it.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeMar 30th 2022 edited
     
    Having a fight with the insurance company regarding funding the verge repair but now decided to go ahead anyway as it needs to be done.

    To summarise, the verge trim (Kami verge 3) is (was) held on by ring shank nails into the end grain of the battens on the vertical side. The wind got under the top side and caused the entire length to flutter until it came off. I now have a solution to prevent this happening again; custom bent Z clips that will slide under the tile and be riveted to the topside leading edge. Would love to do it myself, but height and access is the issue.

    Unlike the Nu-Lok in Borpin's photos, my steel batten is fixed to timber battens and the trim was nailed (3mm X 60) into the end grain.

    I now plan on the to replace with screws and some black caps to hide the head. But what screws? Presumably, pre-drilling is best? What about self tapping into the end grain?

    Thinking of one of these types but uncertain what is best:

    https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/products/timco-5-5-x-50mm-countersunk-self-drill-screws-timber-to-steel-1-2-3-0mm-bright-zinc-plated-no3-phillips-drive

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-head-self-tapping-screws-6ga-x-1-100-pack/9497p

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264335311938?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3D54fa63fdb65e4847ba902149d974a3cb%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D112160016994%26itm%3D264335311938%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1

    One roofer, who was not interested and is a real cowboy told me, just screw into the end grains, no worries mate! My feeling is that doing so will split the batten but testing on some scrap, that is not happening.

    Grateful for your thoughts on screw types and if there is a bette alternative.

    Thanks and toodle pip
      _RAB0446 (Medium).jpg

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