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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorweebookboy
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2016
     
    Hello all, this is my first post on the forum but I’ve been using the forum as a resource for years so I’d like to thank everyone for contributing – both questions and answers.
    On this occasion I’m hoping for some advice on my particular situation and plans.
    I’ll try to give quite a full background so thank you in advance for having the patience to read through.
    We live in a three bed bungalow on the Isle of Skye, recently moved in (October) and currently have oil fired heating and an electric cooker. We hope to replace a lot of this system with wood fuelled options. We have had wood stoves before, as our sole heating on a narrowboat and as supplementary heating with gas central heating.
    There is a redundant fireplace in the living room with a capped chimney and we have 9 radiators in the central heating system including two tiny ones.
    Our demand on domestic hot water seems very low, our shower is electric and we usually wash our hands with cold water (the hot takes too long to come through anyway), aside from the occasional bath we just use a bowlful for the washing up in an evening.
    I am thinking of putting a wood stove in the living room and a rayburn in the Kitchen for cooking, DHW and central heating. One of the features we’d like to have is to be able to have the central heating on for an hour or so in the mornings so we wake up to a comfortable house and to this end I think a thermal store should suit our needs.
    I am not knowledgeable about plumbing and keep getting lost in the technicalities. I didn’t want the living room stove to have a back boiler as I don’t think it’s need in the system and it would just reduce the burn efficiency. I’m planning on retaining the electric cooker as a backup (very few people relying on wood for cooking seem to recommend it as a sole cooking source and we don’t have equal dedication to it in the house).
    So I suppose my question is will a thermal store be likely to answer our demands for morning luxury after an evenings burn of the rayburn? Are there any gaping holes in the rest of my plan?
    Thank you very much for having the patience to read through if you’ve made it this far, apologies for the scrappy details – it is difficult to know how much is relevant.
    Thanks again, Adam.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2016
     
    Others will be along to answer your questions better than I can but the first thing they'll ask is about the size of your bungalow and the level of insulation. Might as well get your answer in first…
  1.  
    Are there many trees on Skye?
    Cos If paying for "imported" fuel, of necessity, oil is relatively cheap.
    After insulation.
    m
    • CommentAuthorweebookboy
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2016
     
    I knew there would be more information needed!
    The attic is generously insulated courtesy of the last owners, the walls have whatever insulation they put in them in the 70's, it is timber frame with rendered block and as far as I know there is no cavity. Insulation would probably have to be EWI to be practical, the cost would not be easy to find unless I scrap the plans for everything else - this does not appeal and therefore is unlikely to happen.
    Yes there are lots of trees on Skye, mostly plantation trees - spruce and larch but with some hardwoods (surprising variety; oak, ash, elm, beech, sycamore, cherry, hornbeam, etc...). I get my hands on a fair quantity of hardwood. A scavenger license from the forrestry commision costs £50 for 3 months, you can exrtact as much felling residue as you are able without the use of powertools (my crosscut saw is sharp, I extract a lot). I hate burning oil - the cost is not the prime reason for changing. The existing boiler is old and inefficient, I don't want to blow all of our savings on EWI and be stuck with heating with oil even if it cheap (at the moment).
    Many thanks for your comments.
    P.S. I'll get the tape measure out later for a better idea of the size of the place...
    P.P.S I don't think it is relevant to anything else but just in case - we have a PV array on the roof, I was planning on using immersion heaters in the thermal store powered by the panels for summer DHW.
    • CommentAuthorweebookboy
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2016 edited
     
    O.K, tape measure has been out and the area we would hope to heat in the mornings is about 106m2. We have thermostatic radiator valves so we can opt to have different 'zones' heated at different times. I'm pretty confident of the heating meeting our needs in the evenings, it is just whether a burn in the rayburn (probably a second hand fairly modern version - 355sfw for example) from about 4 in the afternoon will charge the thermal store enough to heat that 106m2 of a morning.
    We are happy with the level of heat retention in the house, we could always improve of course, but it has the best insulation we have ever had and predict that the fuel consumption and supply will be manegeable. My good access to wood and having the space to season it well are significant factors in wanting to change to wood burning.
  2.  
    It is generally reckoned to be better to split the DHW from the heating. I have a thermal store (TS) and a separate DHW tank. I can run the DHW from the TS via a coil in the DHW tank or by immersion heater. I am very pleased with the split and I am glad I don't run the DHW directly off the TS.

    Using an appliance for multiple purposes usually ends up with a compromise on all the purposes. Many people find that running a wood burner for space heating and either central heating or a TS means that they either get the room in which the wood burner sits too hot or there is not enough heat going to the CH/TS. With your plans for the Rayburn you will add a 3rd dimension to the mix - cooking.

    I am not up on Rayburns but I would be surprised if they generated enough heat to water to supply both CH and the TS so I can see a potential conflict of having CH through the evening OR heat up the TS for a warm house in the morning.

    A back boiler on a wood stove need not reduce the burn efficiency, you just need the correct controls. (i.e. a thermostat that switches off the back boiler pump when the stove temperature drops)

    But enough about generalities - how big a TS, heat outputs of proposed Rayburn and wood stove, heat demands of the house etc..

    Don't forget the regulations about wood burners and air supply. Wood stoves can be got with external air feeds or room sealed but what about Rayburns?
    If the house leaks enough that you won't have the problem then you should fix this aspect well enough so that you do have the problem - and then solve it!
    • CommentAuthorweebookboy
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2016
     
    Thank you for your reply Peter. This is the bit where I get unsure about the details, I am quite open to a split system but I assume that the size of thermal store required differs to a combined system?
    I did realise there would be compromises, part of my query was trying to identify these so thanks for flagging them up. It would not be a great hardship to sacrifice evening central heating to have a warm house in the morning, we mostly live in the kitchen and would have a second stove in the living room to heat that up.
    The house has a suspended floor so air supply to the appliances can be provided via this without too much difficulty.
    As I said, our DHW demand is very low so I can see a split system working well for us. I haven't attempted to calculate our central heating output, we have the thermostats adjusted to different settings at different times but I'll look into it a bit more and try to be more specific about the proposed system.
    To clarify, when I say we want a warm house in the morning, it is more correct to say we would like a 'not cold' house in the morning.
    • CommentAuthorweebookboy
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2016
     
    More information. The Rayburn's output to water is advertised as 11.7kw, the living room stove is a Morso rated at 4.6Kw. I like the Morso because my parents (who live locally) have one and I'm very impressed with it's contol and efficiency - they have a small uninsulated croft house and this heats virtually the whole place with a bit of help from an open fire at the other end of the house.
    The Thermal store I like the look of is one from TMS thermal stores - 512litres with three immersion heaters a 'Laddomat' style thermostat and a quench valve.75mm insulation to the outside in a well insulated cupboard.
    I completed a quick calculation based on the house's volume, number of windows and doors and location to find that the 'heating capacity' is 22.4Kw. I don't really know what that means but I suspect it is an estimate of the energy required to heat this place to 20 degrees C. I don't need that much heat, we aren't the kind who want to walk around the house in t-shirts in mid-winter, I find 16 degrees fine if I'm wearing a jumper - my wife prefers about 18 degrees, the children seem utterly immune to any cold!
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: weebookboyOne of the features we’d like to have is to be able to have the central heating on for an hour or so in the mornings so we wake up to a comfortable house


    Since you live mostly in the kitchen, why not just warm the kitchen, of a morning ?

    Perhaps you could easily (and cheaply...) do this by having an infrared radiant heater, on a (mechanical) timer, so that it comes on, say half-an-an hour before you surface...

    gg
    • CommentAuthorweebookboy
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2016
     
    Thank you GG. That is a very worthwhile suggestion. I generally favour a simple solution but had managed to think myself into a system of valves and pumps and stratification,etc,etc.
    That option will get serious consideration...
    Since that was a very good idea, i'm still keen to hear other peoples thoughts along these lines too, Thanks.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2016
     
    Rather than try and estimate your heating load from first principles, can you just measure your daily/weekly oil and electrical usage.
    Then you can plot that data against a local weather station (Skyewright has one).
    Once you have that information, you then just need to compare technologies.

    £50/3 months for a scavenging license don't sound like a bargain to me once you add in transport and time.
    That would buy you about 800 kWh of thermal energy, via an ASHP, for space heating, which is about the same as 250 kg of dry wood will give you.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2016
     
    I like infra-red heaters because they warm the person and surfaces first. I doubt you even need a timer; but you might appreciate a remote control switch so you can turn it on from your bedside as you get up. They are very useful in bathrooms too. And they cost peanuts!
  3.  
    Thanks steamy, that was the point i was attempting to articulate, re "costings"
    From someone who has left the log gasifier unlit all winter while burning Kero at 30p/litre
    I am also running the big Morso between the kitchen and living room, fuelled purely from our own woodland, but not "cheaply" if i costed my labour and investment in the equipment so needed, and put a price on the sq footage needed to store the wood over 2 or 3 seasons.
    Hence my comment that heating oil was "cheap".
    No heat in the bedroom (at night) merely causes the wife to snuggle tighter, heh heh!
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2016
     
    i would also be concerned that the rayburn would loose to much heat to room and oven and so provide less to thermal store which may need a considerable boost late evening to hold temp for 7/8 rads for the morning heat-up.
    The result being a constant feeding of timber to get to you desired tank temp(which would be gain through experience over time) which could be exhausting both in effort and wood stocks.

    is there an opportunity to add solar thermal to the store? may help

    or maybe a dedicated biomass boiler just for the store?

    i would also look to site the thermal store as close to the heat source as possible
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2016
     
    Posted By: weebookboyMore information. The Rayburn's output to water is advertised as 11.7kw


    I'm a bit wary of that figure for its output using wood. Get some advice from more experienced users, but my guess is that in practice you'll be hard put to get anything close to that unless it's with coke. We just use ours on wood, and only as a standby for hot water during powercuts.
  4.  
    What Mike7 said
    Generally speaking the quoted output of stoves is pretty close to the maximum. your 11.7kw will be around the mid-burn time assuming good quality fuel. after a reload or in the last 1/4 of a burn then the output will be (considerably) less. The same will apply to the Morso stove. A quick check on the Rayburn site shows the output as 'up to 40,000 - 11.7kw.' Note it says 'up to'

    But looking at your figures - you estimate 22kw heat load, even with your stoves producing their maximum (which they can't) you will only match about 75% of that. OK thats probably calculated with 0deg outside and 20deg. inside but even so there has been on allowance for heating the TS for the morning CH.

    you get about 2.5kwh for a kg of good dry fire wood so to get the output from the Rayburn you will need 4kg/hour of wood which I would guess will need refuelling about once an hour (I doubt that the firebox is big enough to cope with more)

    You say that you have suspended floors which could take the ventilation for the stoves, the Rayburn needs a bit over a 15cm pipe to satisfy and it can't be connected to the stove (I think) That's a big hole to let in the cold air! And the Morso will also need something (can they be room sealed?)

    By the way, re suspended floors - there is quite a bit on this forum about insulating them - worth a read and then doing it! (although insulating the floor and then putting a 15cm dia hole in it seems odd)

    As a thought - if you are wedded to the Rayburn lifestyle then what about the Rayburn doing the cooking and DHW and a wood burner stove with a back boiler to do the space heating and CH / TS
    • CommentAuthorweebookboy
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2016
     
    Thanks for all the comments and advice.
    I wasn't expecting the output's of the stoves to be very accurate - I always assumed they were figures more or less plucked out of the air since there are so many variables to take into account. Likewise with the predictions for heat demand. I haven't paid a great deal of attention to it in the past, when we lived on the boat we lit the fire when cold, opened windows when hot and put up with being cold in the morning. In our last house we burned wood if I had scavenged and dried enough, used the gas if the wood wasn't seasoned and in the winter mornings - we had a high efficiency combi - boiler and used 1,129 kWh per year.
    I will have to take some more time to look into how best to satisfy regs for air intake.
    Insulating the floors is noted - I will also look into getting this done, if we go ahead with the rayburn I will need to build up a plinth for it so it could be a good time to sort underfloor issues.
    I kind of gather the wood for for fun, or maybe that isn't quite the right term. I like playing at forrestry, I get to do it a bit at work but I got the scavenger license just so I could get out in the woods of a weekend and use my axes (infrequently) and saws (often) - I gave it all to my parents last year. I suppose I'm trying to get over the sense that my time, storage space, etc don't really register in my mind as being represented by monetery value. I am trying to make the house have as few actual utility costs as possible and to that end I want to avoid biomass, pellets, oil, or anything else I can't process myself.
    Incorporating solar thermal to the store would be an option but the very limited daylight through the winter months up here leads me to believe it would contribute little when we need it most.
    I will plan to have the thermal store as close to the heat source as possible.
    I will investigate Peters suggestion of the rayburn cooking and DHW, and the wood burner to do space heating and TS.
    Thanks again.
    I'll take a little time to review the feedback.
    Adam.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2016
     
    Posted By: weebookboyI suppose I'm trying to get over the sense that my time, storage space, etc don't really register in my mind as being represented by monetery value. I am trying to make the house have as few actual utility costs as possible


    laudable values, I take my hat off to you !

    gg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    Posted By: weebookboyIncorporating solar thermal to the store would be an option but the very limited daylight through the winter months up here leads me to believe it would contribute little when we need it most.

    It's been a while since I looked at it and I never installed it, but I think that you can get a useful amount of heat in winter from a solar thermal system if the panels are mounted almost vertically and south-facing. You will definitely need an alternative though, so perhaps the additional cost is not worth it.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    i think you are attempting to get too much from the rayburn, with cooking heating and hot water, all of which may have been possible with a high performance house with almost zero heat demand,
    if you insist on biomass heating that can provide on demand heat through stored tank then i think you may be better of with a dedicated biomass boiler with almost no heat loss to room and the Ts planted on the back of it.
    and diffidently put some solar thermal of summer HW
  5.  
    Posted By: an02ewand diffidently put some solar thermal of summer HW

    Solar thermal or would PV be better?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungarySolar thermal or would PV be better?

    Basically comes down to how much area is available to mount it. Solar thermal is significantly more efficient in terms of the energy/heat produced per unit area, but if you have enough area then PV is better in pretty much every other way.

    Mounting either more vertically than 'optimum' will emphasise winter performance at the expense of summer and total performance, which is especially useful with solar thermal since it reduces the need for dumping in summer. Excess PV power can just be fed to the grid, so it's more usual to maximise total performance.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary</cite>Solar thermal or would PV be better?</blockquote>

    Solar thermal, its cheaper, can be self installed by competent person
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    PV is dead! Long live Solar thermal!
  6.  
    Posted By: an02ewSolar thermal, its cheaper, can be self installed by competent person


    Posted By: an02ewPV is dead! Long live Solar thermal!


    I wish I had time to tear that apart :wink:
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    For a given amount of heating of DHW in poor lighting conditions PV is cheaper. It can also be self-installed by anybody competent to install solar thermal though you might well need a sparks for a morning for final connection in some countries. But then your solar thermal pump might, too, depending on circumstances. The disadvantages of PV are, as DJH says, greater area and also the lack of a cheap off-the-shelf solution for heating applications.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesThe disadvantages of PV are, as DJH says, greater area and also the lack of a cheap off-the-shelf solution for heating applications.

    Compared to the costs of most other heating solutions, a solar diverter and a fan heater or immersion are very competitive I think.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    But then you need an inverter as well. And you're probably limited to 16 amps at mains voltage. And definitely need an electrician.
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies. The disadvantages of PV are, as DJH says, greater area and also the lack of a cheap off-the-shelf solution for heating applications.


    Not quite at the fan heater level but I think small air-to-air heatpumps deserve consideration as cheap off-the-shelf solutions, or partial solutions at least. A good fit with PV in shoulder months, and Skye winters are relatively mild and windy, so should be decent COP and plenty of green electricity around in winter. Also good in the event that enthusiasm for forestry/woodburning fades!
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2016
     
    Posted By: djh
    Posted By: weebookboyIncorporating solar thermal to the store would be an option but the very limited daylight through the winter months up here leads me to believe it would contribute little when we need it most.

    It's been a while since I looked at it and I never installed it, but I think that you can get a useful amount of heat in winter from a solar thermal system if the panels are mounted almost vertically and south-facing. You will definitely need an alternative though, so perhaps the additional cost is not worth it.

    Paul Camilli on Raasay has 60 tubes on his new house. This is the first winter and the tubes are far from vertical but I understand he's getting at least some useful heat.

    https://lifeattheendoftheroad.wordpress.com/

    weebookboy: I'm not sure how old your house is, but our ~1970 crofter built bungalow had a great deal of scope for insulation & draught proofing improvements. Over the last 20 years I've been working on those as time & money permit (& there is still further scope!). Our (all electric) heating bill is lower than it's ever been and at the same time the house is maintained at more comfortable temperatures & humidity.

    The big advantage with insulation & draught proofing is that the work & money you put in just keeps paying back (a WBS will always need more wood sooner or later). :bigsmile:
   
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