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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    & I really need to cut my costs (or find a different architect(or possibly both!!))

    So if you had to create a 200 sqm building with a kitchen, 6 toilets and about 50 linear m of inside partition wall
    I also need
    Car Parking 600sqm
    lorry turning circle 25sqm -
    Paths 50 sqm
    Play area 180 sqm
    Fencing approx 125 linear m

    I'd like
    Biofuel Heating
    Underfloor heating
    Solar panels
    Rainwater harvesting

    Can we make any of this really really cheap??
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    If it's important the builds long sides face north & south and the short ends east & west (obviously)

    & I have concrete block walls (single skin) and i think concrete base
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Sorry to be a pessimist but I think the only way you are going to do this is by concentrating on the basics and by getting a lot of free labour.

    HOw about ?
    Walls : External Strawbale with lime render done by a gang on a training course. Paint internally.
    Floors: Celotex covered by boards and floor finish on top of existing concrete.
    Windows: Seconds ? check out the big manufacturers.
    Heating: Oil boiler with low temp radiators - biomass later when you can afford it.
    Roof: New structure with onduline roof covering and 300mm warmcell in loft.

    Alternatively knock half of it down and do a smaller building within your budget.
  1.  
    Good advice I think
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2007
     
    I will be ringing Amazon Nails about the straw bales & the course
    Painting internally I can do (at least)

    I could do the windows for about £7K in upvc & I am trying to get a price for hardwood atm......then I'll get a price for softwood & go with that

    Even if low temp rads they will need to be guard (OFSTED stricks again....).......(also really hate oil - I guess LPG is cr*p??)

    Am liking the onduline (I need a price)

    Can't do that because the numbers (of children) wouldn't justify the staff cost
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2007
     
    Someone has promised a quote for a log cabin that will come in on budget - I am a little sceptical, however it is better than a portacabin
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2007
     
    Hello Katy

    I haven't followed your project but you really are going to have to 'cut you cloth' if you need to shed £140k.

    In the short term you may need to lose some of the greener bits!

    S.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2007 edited
     
    I think I may have picked the wrong architect - I think he is a High specification residential architect & I need a lower spec/utility commercial person......maybe?

    Estimates marked * have been made by a local builder # means I want a greener alternative
    Remove asbestos £6,544.75 See 2 quotes
    Demolishion £4,000.00 *Reduce wall perimeter (60m) by 1.2 m & dispose of waste rubble block up existing windows & cut new windows & doors
    Roof £9,000.00 *Replace with new trusses tile with concrete tile #considering a more green alternative-possibly onduline?
    Water Connection £1,000.00 *dig ditch & connect to Edward's water
    Harvesting £4,000.00 from green advisor in Norwich (normal domestic use approx £2000 extra to allow for storage requirements & multi toilet use.
    Drainage £5,000.00 Estimate based on current prices for cess pits/sewage treatment plants
    Windows & doors
    Based on standard uPVC double glazed units
    5 doors £1,250.00
    1 french window £500.00
    22 Windows £5,250.00
    Total £7,000.00
    Based on hardwood triple glazed argon filled units
    5 doors £3,750.00
    1 french window £1,250.00
    22 Windows £15,000.00
    Total £20,000.00
    Anticipated Price £12,000.00 based on quantity discount & best compromise position
    Partitioning & lining £6,000.00 *stud wall partitioning for auxiliary rooms
    Ceiling £2,000.00 *plaster board & rough artex (type)
    Electrics £7,500.00 estimate based on current prices for fitting elecrtrics - 1st & 2nd fix
    Heating £10,000.00 estimate based on potential wood burner price and under floor heating
    Kitchen & bathroom £10,000.00
    Floor coverings
    Marmoleum Tiles £6,000.00 £30 psqm supplied & fitted
    Vinyl Tiles £2,000.00 £5 psqm to buy plus £5 psqm to fit
    £2,000.00 based on quantity discount & best compromise position
    Landscaping
    Car Parking 600sqm 25sqm - £8,000.00 £4000 grass re-inforcement mesh +£4000 12 sqm reinforced concrete for deliveries or £11625 for rubber mats & gravel
    Paths 50 sqm £1,500.00
    Play area 180 sqm £2,160.00
    Fencing @ £30 125 linear m £4,000.00

    Grand Total £94,704.75

    So where did I go wrong

    Architect said heating is 4 times that, kitchen & bathroom are 4 times that.....I can't work out why???
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2007
     
    Well it was beautifully formatted when I did it....sorry

    Hey - can we have preview & smilies????
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Quick comments:
    Heating is low esp for underfloor - boiler and storage will costs you £10-15k before grant.
    Where is all the insulation? floor, walls roof.
    Septic tank system is going to have to be a lot bigger than domestic
    Does electrics include light fittings?

    You really need to get some good professional advice here

    You would have to assume a minimum cost of £800 per sqm plus VAT without all the goodies I think unless you can get free labour.

    Gut feel says £160k plus VAT would be doable but you really need a decent architect.

    Have you checked out AECB for a local architect with green credentials?
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Hello Katy

    It is really hard to comment on a list like this. Some prices seem low (fencing), some high(kitchen) but it is not possible to see below as we cannot know on site conditions and what the constraints are or the level of quality specified.

    At a gross scale is £94k within budget & do you have a 10 - 25% contingency on top of this?
    Was the £140k on top of this! (thats a hell of a range if it is the case)
    A contingency MUST be part of your budget - you will use it! Also I am allways concerned about estimates & anticipated costs as in my experience they almost never come out lower in the end, I would be inclined to add at least 20% to all estimates on top of the contingency until you get a proper idea of what the costs will be.

    If you are up for the project management you would do well to get hold of some standard estimating tools such as SPONS books etc so you can work up the estimates properly and cross check what your contractors are saying. If you do not have the time or are concerned about your level of experience/expertise with regard to building projects get a quantity surveyor to go over the spec or consider getting and experienced project manager to run it for you.

    The other approach is to phase the build/project if possible get the thing working in the simplest way and then add in stuff as your budget allows. From you other posts I understand this to be a business so presumably there will be a surplus form income which will allow for on-going investment.

    Sorry if this is really general, and I'm sure others may have better approaches/more detail.

    Good luck.

    S.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    I have a £15K contingancy & yes the 140K was on top of my £100K

    Fencing is for 4ft chainlink (put in by hubby - he could spend the next year just doing that)

    Kitchen & bathroom figure has to have 4 mini loos, a disabled, an adult and the kitchen, a sealed floor stainless cupboards & countertops (extractor?) but no appliances

    I will contact/look at AECB - but the biggest green architect in our area says his finance diorector won't let him do any more like me (not sure what that means!!)

    Electrics would be for a 'dado' round the room at 4 ft to take the plugs, all the lighting, smoke alarm & security alarm, cooker feed & heating feed

    I've been looking at boilers about £4-5K & I understood that the boiler/tank & UF heating would be eligible for a grant of 30-50%

    I can't get a price in for insulation till I know what I am doing - it's my main problem...I am leaning towards external as the outside must be "finished" in some way anyway. So I just paint the inside.

    I thought I'd put in extra for a septic tank - I'll need to do more research.

    I can sacrifice the rainwater harvesting and retrofit & I already dumped the solar panels with the same idea - but the building needs to be usable from the start.

    Where can I get the books to do the estimating - I might struggle with them but my dad used to be a structural engineer - so between the 2 of us we could have a go at it.

    I can't afford a project manager & an architect so I'm kinda stuck with that bit iyswim

    Thanks for you ideas and I welcome any other suggestions/ideas/advise
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Would I need 2 Boilers producing 45,000 btu's to heat this thing?? or do I go back to my straw burner idea??
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    If your not going to employ an architect then who is going to do the building regs etc.
    You will struggle on your own especialliy as this is a commercial building with particular fire, access and ventilation requirements.

    You will also need to an SBEM calculation based on your insulation and M&E configuration to satisfy building regs.

    One boiler should be ample but the LCBP grant only covers the additonal cost over and above the next worst alternative so it will not cover rads, DHW or the cost of an oil equivalent setup.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    No Nigel - I can get either/or - I'm having an architect - just not the one I saw last week

    I guess a wood burning stove with a back boiler is the easiest way to go (maybe a clearview?) with underfloor heating - so I get the heat both ways It also seems an ecomonical way to do it (if a bit labour intensive). So I'm back with the problem of where to site it
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Onduline is £8 a sheet (2m by .9m) - so for the roof (12m with a hypotenuse of 7m....I think with a 30 degree angle) 20m long I think I need 12 along the length & 9 for the width so a total of 208 panels - that's £1700

    Plus the trusses & labour....now I need a price for the trusses
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    The wood burning stove would have to be in the main room which presumably is going to be difficult with the regulations and small children.

    A backboiler in a stove is going to be very inefficient and underfloor heating needs to be kept on most of the time as it has a very slow response.

    I think UFH and a wood burner will be very difficult.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Would the straw burner be better (with an accumulator tank?)
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Yes but ££££££'s. and probably too big for your heat load.

    Still think oil is the way to go short term with your budget constraints and concentrate on insulation to reduce heating equirement.
    If you design it right you will only need 10Kw heat source which is very low.

    Straw Bales will give you a very very good u value, dont know the exact figure.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    I'm still struggling with the cost for straw bales - I guess you cut in on an angle (with a chain saw) to do the window revels (is that spelt right?)

    Can't I do LPG...I hate oil
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Have you seen an energy shack - I guess I can't afford that
  2.  
    Re u-value. A clay rendered 450mm straw bale will give you a u-value of around 0.26W/m2K
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Of course - that implys I know what U values are........my dad just wanted to know
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    A little straw burner is about 4 or 5 K
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    So walls need to be 0.35 so 0.26 is better...........I think

    & they are reasonably cheap to buy............installing and rendering still an unknown cost (yet - but I am working on it)

    It seems reasonably straight forward to do sticking long pointy sticks thro' them- is it possible for an amateur to do?
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Hello Katy

    The Spons books are on Amazon. There are different volumes for different elements of the build. They allow you to calculate the cost of materials, labour, contractors profits with add ons for difficult sites/non standard working. Used with care they will get you near to a proper price for each element of the project and can help you to calculate where you can make savings by drafting in volunteers & using different materials.

    Straw burners/solid fuel/woodburners are going to give building inspectors/planners kittens (= more delays, costs and scrutiny) unless you can house them in a seperate boiler room; the health and safety/fire regs side of things is a big cost where public buildings are concerned. I may be wrong but you probably won't get a grant unless the system is an automated log/wood pellet job. You will also give yourelf a full time job fueling the standard variety. I work in infant school at the moment and the starting temperature (before children arrive) is set at 20degC by the way (a lot of straw!). I would start with a fossil boiler (or even calor gas heaters + guards for a while!) and retofit the greener bits later (the fossil boiler will always then be a back up).

    If I were in your position I would take a really deep breath and consider getting the building up and running in the simplest and cheapest fashion that will comply with the regulations and look at retrofitting all the green stuff later. The only element I would retain is the (super) insulation where it will be hard to retrofit but only if you can afford it and still complete. Not ideal, I know this is not a "Green Building" approach, but with your budget limitations probably the only way you will get it done, even then it sounds horriby tight.

    I hope all this is helping.

    S.
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    The Amazon Nails straw bale building guide is downloadable free from the front page of their web site.

    S.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    Printed out and to be read in bed tomorrow morning (hopefully with a cup of tea (if hubby obliges)
  3.  
    Mike, I had understood a 450 bale was nearer 0.13 U value. I think Amazon Nails give this figure in their book. 0.26 is not to be sniffed at either, though. Katie, why would you need to put an angle on the reveals? You could, but avoiding any cutting (apart from simple bale-splitting) is much simpler. Chain-saws clog like mad, and need a licenced operator. I use a very sharp hand-knife, but the straw seems to blunt it very quickly. Get a really good oil-stone!

    Interesting thought - If skinning a conc block wall with bales, would you make any attempt to tie the 2 skins in, and if so, how, to allow for settlement? Don't want to introduce metal if you can help.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2007
     
    Didn't get it read - filing struck (about 4 months worth)

    Won't the straw bales shade the windows (is that a bad thing?).....

    Got lost after that??
   
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