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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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Products: Fermacell 8 x 4's Anyone used them??

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    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeNov 23rd 2013
     
    Posted By: hitormissThanks, I wonder why Fermacell is not more widely used?



    I think that Plasterboard is quite a bit cheaper.

    Jonti
    • CommentAuthorhitormiss
    • CommentTimeNov 23rd 2013
     
    Cheaper even with a plasterer and Multi finish?
  3.  
    Not necessarily, but much cheaper DIY dry-jointed.
    • CommentAuthorhitormiss
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2013 edited
     
    davidfreeborough 19 hours ago
    I've thought about using Fermacell, but what do you do where it meets a wet plastered masonry wall?

    I'm going to use 25mm x 50mm treated batten on the Hi7 Block walls, (100 Dritherm 32 full fill cavity), with Tyvek Airguard Reflective against blocks inside (for airtightness). May use some thin 15mm or 25mm Celotex before Airguard. I don't want to lose to much internal space. Not sure if it is worth worrying about the Celotex.

    Outside is Tyvek Housewrap over Hi7 blocks, then treated 25mm x 50mm battens, then English Cedar (North Devon) F/E cladding 200mm wide fixed with stainless nails.

    Fitting battens to blocks with Twistfix hammer drive fittings. http://www.twistfix.co.uk/thermalite-fixings-airtwist?cat=32103 I have also used Tapcon screws.
    • CommentAuthorMikeRumney
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2013
     
    Personally in favour of Fermacell ... in addition to what's already been said:

    Much better racking strength
    No need to fix on stud line as it'll take 50kg without plugs if done right
    Better sound proofing

    Against:
    Care needed with long thin sections (say 2700 by 250 mm) as it has a tendency to snap under its own weight.
    More of an issue if its the slightest bit damp.

    I wouldn't use it on a ceiling myself as even the "one man" boards are on the heavy side.
    I've used plasterboard screws with a cordless drill driver into 12.5mm with no issues except the occasional friction-screeching noise!

    Do a countersink in the board first to bury the screw heads a bit.
    Makes the skim / fill easier.
    (Drilling a pilot hole right through not so useful as you'll get breakaway on the back,
    which will either stand the board off the stud if left, or dramatically thin the attachment point if picked away.)

    I haven't yet used any jointstick as all the edges share the same stud, making them dead level and not likely to move relative to eachother.

    Powdered polyfilla and 20/80 PVA/water makes an excellent "flexible" bonding/filler/skim by the way.
  6.  
    Posted By: hitormiss
    Posted By: davidfreeborough I've thought about using Fermacell, but what do you do where it meets a wet plastered masonry wall?.
    I'm going to use 25mm x 50mm treated batten on the Hi7 Block walls, (100 Dritherm 32 full fill cavity), with Tyvek Airguard Reflective against blocks inside (for airtightness).
    I mean how do you avoid cracking where the two meet? Do you plan to leave a gap between the Fermacell & the plaster? If so, what will you fill the gap with?

    As an alternative, is it possible to use paper jointing tape, plaster over it with the finish coat & cover the part on the Fermacell with the Fine Surface Treatment? Would you need a tapered edge board?

    David
  7.  
    I'd use scrim tape rather than paper tape and skim the join, feather the edge in with easyfill etc.
    You can plane fermacell to make a tapered edge
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2013
     
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughIf so, what will you fill the gap with?

    Shadow!? That's what my architect is suggesting anyway.
  9.  
    Yes , very trendy , no architraves etc. double tack with board , set the top one back a bit to create 'shadow effect'
    all the go for the swish!

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