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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Did you hear the guy from Arups on the news today? They are claiming we are building housing which will be inappropriate for the warmer world we will be inhabiting later this century because it is increasing lightweight timber frame and doesn't have the thermal mass and passive cooling traditional in warmer areas like the Med. He thinks we will all be sat in plasterboard boxes with the aircon on...

    I thought they might have produced a report but I can't find anything on their website. What do people think?
  2.  
    Funny how Arup are designing the ecocity at Dongtan, China, in a river delta a sea level.

    I was visiting a house today, built in about 1750, with 13 inch solid brick wall lined with an internal timber stud wall with laths plastered with an inch and a half of lime plaster. The owners thought the house very comfortable to live in.
  3.  
    Uh-oh another sticky subject - rotten tomatoes at the ready!

    I think that he is right to raise this. If the majority view on Global warming comes to fruition then there is indeed a danger that lightweight buildings will require significant energy use for cooling in the summer.

    I do not agree with the drive to reduce u-values beyond current building regulation levels as the marginal benefits of doing so are minimal - there are better ways of reducing energy use.

    I believe the focus should be on build quality to ensure that installation procedure is actually adhered to and airtightness is at a level which allows heat loss in real life to actually reflect that predicted by out of date steady state predictions.

    If the UK is getting warmer then reasonable [current] u-values will be enough in the warmer? winter months to mean that only minimal heating will be required anyway. This could be produced by using 100% efficient electric heaters [and incidental heat gains] powered by off site and/on site carbon free technology.

    It also means that petro-chemically derived insulations [which is the only realistic choice for the mass market] can be substituted for natural products which lock up Carbon.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 8th 2007
     
    Chris -- he is right in the here and now -- timber frame homes already heat up too much in hot summers when we get them.

    The best way to build is undoubtedly heavyweight -- solid not aerated blocks.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 8th 2007
     
    bUT NOT JUST ANY OLD SOLID - IT'S too easy to create something that stores daytime heat and then releases it just as the next day's heat begins, instead of when it's needed, overnight. New knowledge and understanding is needed.
  4.  
    I think you need to think about that one carefully.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 8th 2007
     
    I am happy to store for three days or more.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2007
     
    I heard that guy from Arups, he was talking about the nice cool interior of solidly built mediterraneum churches. If you have incredibly thick walls, the bottom of the wall conduct heat nicely into the ground and the thermal mass integrates the ambient temperature over a period of a couple of months or so. In summer its nice and cool but I would think that its cold in winter. I have a kitchen that has a buried back wall (about 4'), this too is nice in summer for an hour or so but after that when reading, a shirt over ones tee shirt is required. Its cold in winter, as our mean soil temperature is about 10 degrees C.
    Frank
  5.  
    I think there must be a balance to be struck somewhere. Concrete and stone villas in the Med are are a pleasant refuge in the fierce heat of the summer but I once stayed in one in Crete in April during a poor spell of weather and it was very chilly (although not as chilly as the pool at 2am after a skin full....).

    My personal preference is for heavyweight, I just like the solid feel, and I think in the real world you have a better chance of building air tight, but I think this should be combined with good passive solar design and high levels of external insulation. Throw in a nice cosy stove to keep the winter chill off and that should all you need I recon.

    I think if you go the lightweight route you are, potentially, buying into the notion that houses need fast response, electronically controlled heating and ventilation systems to maintain themselves at a precise temperatures all year round. I prefer the idea that your building basically moderates temperature and humidity passively and occupants adapt their clothing with the seasons, reconnecting themselves with nature.
  6.  
    I boil down the argument to the amount of winter sun (in a heating climate)! Thermal mass is only useful when you have free heat to store within it, otherwise it is a hindernance and will increase your heating load.

    In a cooling climate is also has benefits but needs to cool night time temperatures (& contact with the ground) to stop over heating of mass and becoming uncomfortable.

    In outback Austraila light weight contruction can work with reflective roofs (good place for multifoils!), breezeways and wrap around verandahs.

    Comes back to intelligent design again!
    •  
      CommentAuthorOlly
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2007
     
    I think too much emphasis is placed upon the requirement of high thermal mass to reduce summertime overheating. It is only one of many measures that can be used and is by no means the most important. There are also downsides, for example, at night time when you want to sleep you want a cooler room, thermally massive houses with bedrooms upstairs may actually be hotter at night in the summer when people are most sensitive to higher temperatures. A lightweight house will of course cool much more quickly. Personally I'm quite happy with bedrooms downstairs, it keeps them cooler and makes escape far easier in the event of fire.

    Minimising solar gains is the key to preventing overheating, through shading, window sizing/orientation, brise soleils, blinds, shutters, vegetation, etc. Ventilation is the other biggie, in both light and heavyweight construction. High thermal mass without good ventilation will cause more problems than it solves.

    Vegetation is somewhat under-rated in its importance, satellite images of Paris during the 2003 heatwave show a strong positive correlation between lower temperatures and vegetation. Vegetation reduces ambient air temperatures and limits the effect of heat islands often created by large urban and surban areas.

    Phase change materials provide one possible solution for constructing lightweight yet thermally massive buildings. Plasterboard containing micro-encapsulated paraffins is one way in which these can be used passively, in a similar manner to thermal mass. The cost maybe high at present, but this has a lot of potential as it can be used as a direct replacement for traditional plasterboard and can be used in exactly the same way.

    This may read as a somewhat rambling response, but in conclusion, I think high thermal mass should be seen as one of many techniques that can be used to prevent overheating, not a necessity.
    • CommentAuthorMarkH
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2007
     
    I think both Jeff Norton and Olly make a very good point - it's the design of the house that is key, not whether it is lightweight or heavyweight. Our timber frame house was quite comfortable during last summers hottest days simply by use of curtains and windows for shading and creating draughts. Upstairs was a different matter because of poor insulation and did show up the potential pit falls - I'm expecting that re-roofing with much better insulation will solve this.
    • CommentAuthorRimu Homes
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2007
     
    Jeff pointed out the use of breeze throughs, my experience of these is that they are very effective.
    I spent 5 yrs livng in portakabins in temperatures up to 56 degrees around Meekathara in Western Australia.
    Gaps were left between individual units with one large reflective roof (unpainted corrugated iron) covering a group of units.

    Caravans/campers are sold with a false roof rased 4/6 inches above.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2007
     
    Posted By: Rimu HomesCaravans/campers are sold with a false roof rased 4/6 inches above.
    Like the traditional LWB LandRover Estate from way back - effective till Elsa the Lion sits on it!
  7.  
    I think the problem at the moment is that the mass housing that is being constructed is both lightweight and badly designed and is being built in a way that will make it very difficult to improve in the future. I'm thinking of the insulated timber stud frames with brick skins designed to appeal to the conservative tastes of the public.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2007 edited
     
    Anyone who buys a present-day estate house made of sticks and cardboard is buying a diminishing leasehold that will be worth the value of the land it stands on, less demolition cost, within 25-years. Unimproveable, stuck forever with its present-day fuel cost multiplied by ten within 10 years, while all other buildings with a bit of massiveness and some space around them will be converted to low, zero or negative energy standards, or suffer the same unsaleability at any price. Another big negative equity crisis looming. Get out now while you can!
    • CommentAuthorRimu Homes
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007
     
    Gee Tom , lets stay away from sticks and carboard then. I hear a fridge box is the box of choice but they are hard to lay your hands on these days because of repak.
    Thankfully our timber is graded and quality checked. I'll keep a look out for those sticks but.
    Friends of the family live in a timber house in Sweden that is 350yrs old, it has been in its present local for a mere 150yrs.

    What are the roofs of your houses made of tom?
    • CommentAuthorsteveleigh
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007 edited
     
    If it is a cold climate like Sweden then there is far less moisture which will damage the timber. Moisture is the biggest issue for structures in this country due to its humid climate. New Zealand is a similar climate with similar moisture problems in timber frame structures.
    • CommentAuthorRimu Homes
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007
     
    NZ has many different climates, such as cold(-16) and dry around central otago, humid and extremely wet(annual rainfall of 30-35ft) on the south west coast, to nearly tropical(mangrove swamps) in the far north, European settlement began in earnest in the 1860's, but the Maori were building timber structures long before that.

    The valley I come from has an annual rainfall of 7.5m winter mean temp of around 7 and summer of 16. It has a lattitude similar to that of southern france.

    I am not aware of a building with a block/brick internal leaf being built in the area, though I would imagine there has been
  8.  
    Mass certainly has its benefits but intelligent design is the greatest single factor. Lightweight buildings have been designed in California that have no AC all through sensible design and some fairly simple technology (getting the proportion of window to floor area right, specifying high performance glazing, super insulation, additional mass was added namely double plaster boarding walls and ceramic tiles internally.)

    Have to disagree with you Mike about the cost efficiency of insulation, I can only presume that you have not undertaken cost/kWh saved calcs and are instead relying upon payback (which as a concept, is something of a nonsense.)

    Provided the cost/kWh saved is less than the cost of the energy that you could expect to pay in the market place then a given quantity of insulation can be determined to be cost effective. Furthermore in design terms when you push far enough beyond the conventional cost/kWh saved limits a central heating system is no longer required. As the cost of the required insulation is generally less than, or equal to, the cost of the mitigated heating system this capital saving can then be used to purchase the requesit insulation. The result is that pretty much all the energy-in-use cost savings are negated at no additional build cost (the heat loss from the DW tank is sufficient to keep the house warm). This type of approach has been used at BedZed and in many thousands of PassivHaus and super insulated houses in the USA.
    Needless to say airtightness and MVHR are integral parts of this design methodology.....so probably Biff won't like it ;-)

    Mark
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007
     
    Yes I completely agree with that Mark and have been regularly advocating it for a while. Nice to hear you say it but why isnt everyone doing it?
    • CommentAuthorjon
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007
     
    NZ and the UK weather may be similar but the NZ building codes, because of earthquake zoning, make timber construction almost a prerequisite.
    • CommentAuthorsteveleigh
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007
     
    I find it strange that people contemplating building new houses are still posting on this forum asking for advice on heating systems. It does not make any sense when a building designer should know that the only way forward is super airtight and super insulation with MVHR, which means no requirement for an installed heating system. This seems to be the conclusive way forward always discussed on this forum.

    Anybody building a new "green building" house today who ends up paying out for an heating system and subsequent heating bills should be able to sue the building designer for negligence because the customer has not been advised on the latest energy saving technology. They are professional people giving professional opinions which should make them liable for their advise. Can they be sued? The answer is probably yes? It is the only way to get them up to speed on the latest technology. We need architects giving advice like Mark Siddall.

    I am relatively new to the building trade and I talk everyday to professional building designers and I'm staggered by the lack of understanding of the latest building envelope technologies. I gather most of my knowledge from this forum. Some building designers are not even aware of warm flat roofs.

    Suing the incompetant designers might be the quickest way forward to greener buildings. Then the building designers will recommend the latest technologies because of this threat and the liability is then transferred to the suppliers/manufacturers because they know exactly how their materials perform in a building envelope and should be able exonerate themselves if their products do exactly what they say on the tin.....

    A new house is not fit for purpose if its going to saddle the occupant with a heating requirement which is getting more and more expensive as peak oil approaches.

    Cheers

    Steve
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007 edited
     
    Posted By: Mark SiddallHave to disagree with you Mike about the cost efficiency of insulation, I can only presume that you have not undertaken cost/kWh saved calcs and are instead relying upon payback. Mark


    Hi Mark, better than calcs - dynamic simulations. This is from a my Dissertation which was based on finding optimum levels of insulation in Dwellings. It illustrates the modelled savings for incremental insulation improvements as required by historic legislation. EST standards have since been superseded A variation of this is published by BSJ [George, Geens & Littlewood, 2005. 'Ever Decreasing Circles' Building Services Journal, February, p 49-51]. The findings are nothing new, and concur with other previous publications attempting to find optimum levels of insulation.

    I do agree that airtightness is critical, as is quality of installation, but insulation is without doubt subject to a law of diminishing returns. My view is that once a certain amount of insulation is installed [and this admittedly depends on many build specific factors] then restricting losses through air leakage gives a far better return than miniscule improvements to u-values.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007
     
    I dont fully understand the graphs Mike but I am proposing 300mm of cavity insulation and it looks like from your graphs that this equates to a 3 fold benefit?100mm saves 2.3% 300mm saves 7% ?
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007 edited
     
    Hi tony, No, you have not interpreted it correctly, but I appreciate the chart is difficult to understand without the accompanying analysis, which is condensed into the BSJ publication. Unfortunately it is BSJ copyright so I cannot directly reproduce it here. I don't think it is available electronically, only hard copy. I can send you [and anyone else] an electronic copy of the Disseration if you like.

    Anyway what the chart illustrates is a the % improvements [1st y axis] related to successive breg improvements in energy use [x axis] for the extension to an uninsulated 3 bed detached house. The 2nd y axis shows thickness of insulation required to hit the target u-value of the day. Insulations chosen are judged to have been used commonly at the respective time of legislation including XPS/Mineral wool and PUR. The control model has zero insulation and % savings are of the total energy requirement [for space heating] as uninsulated. The 1976 requirement for insulation produces a 12% energy/cost saving The additional increase in insulation required for the 1978 amendment produces a further 4% saving. The 1985 - around 1% and so on.

    I concluded that around 250-300mm mineral wool is optimum in a cold roof. I did not come to a conclusion which applies to all walls as there are many variables, [such as embodied energy of materials; implications on foundation width/additional concrete, spoil etc]. My conclusion regarding Solid floors was published in BFF Winter 2005.
  9.  
    I agree with Steve's point re the over emphasis on heating systems for new build. Design out the need for a full central heating system and you free up some cash to pay for the higher insulation levels etc.

    I think the reason that people feel they have to install central heating systems is that self builders are taking a big financial risk in constructing their own homes and fear that the resale value of their home will suffer for the lack of central heating, even though it may be largely redundant.

    The Government doesn't help by declaring that anyone without central heating is suffering from some kind of inhuman deprivation, or "fuel poverty". We never had it until I was 14 and it didn't kill me. You appreciate warmth more when you are occasionally cold.

    There is perhaps also an industry developing that has a vested interest in persuading people to install "green" energy technologies when the same capital could be better deployed in good design, high levels of insulation, air tightness etc. It is a lot more profitable to sell a bolt on piece of bolt-on technology than to earn a fee for convincing someone they don't need it.
  10.  
    Mike,
    Assessing improvements and comparing them to the previous model and deriving a percentage creates a false impression as this has the effect of forshortening the apparent point at which building insulation ceases to be economic (until I figured this out I would have agreed with you). The fact is that the datum is not consistant i.e. you compare a with b, b with c and so on rather than with a reliable static datum i.e. a with b, a with c etc.

    If you compare the each model with a static base model i.e. uninsulated building (a good datum as most of our carbon emissions come from this source) you find that the economic threshold is further than you may have expected i.e. about 0.2W/m2. Ultimately cost per kWh saved is the only real assessment (rather than percetnage improvements). Why? Because it compares a unit of energy spent against and unit energy saved. This is a pretty inteligable unit as we also pay our bills in kWh.

    Finally, it doesn't appear that a super insulated house without central heating has been assessed (maybe I'm not reading the key correctly), as a consequence you have finished the thesis....in a manner of speaking. ;-)

    Mark
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007 edited
     
    Mark, I think you would need to read the BSJ article [and subsequent ones to have a full understanding of how I have drawn my conclusions. The original Dissertation had obvious limitations , but these have been ironed out as part of ongoing research in this area.

    I don't follow why you think the analysis is flawed as I have indeed compared each model to an uninsulated static base model, with the same conclusions. Other students have come up with similar results for both small scale and large scale buildings.

    The methodology used is this: Take a building with a given size, fabric , heating, incidental, occupancy, lighting and solar gains. Simulate this and use it as a control- output results Then take the roof for example, add 10mm mineral wool, re-simulate- Output results. Add a further 10mm mineral wool re-simulate- output results. Repeat this procedure up to say 1000mm. The curve obtained clearly shows the diminishing return by way of percentage annual savings. Finding the optimum is the tricky part as economic and environmental factors need to be considered. I have attempted to find the environmental optimum by utilising a LCA of the embodied energy of mineral wool, but I am not sure that the manufacturers data is sufficient for this purpose. I would agree [and have previously concluded] that the optimum economic [real life] u-value in a roof is around 0.2W/m2K, maybe even as low as 0.16W/m2K given other factors such as ventilation and detrerioration of material.

    Walls are more tricky, especially for masonry, increasing cavity widths requires wider foundations, more concrete,more spoil transported off site and consequently less units per plot.

    I do not agree with insulating a solid floor [unless there is UFH], other than at the perimeter. I have seen Best practice u-values advocated as low as 0.1W/m2K. The optimum level for floors is nowhere near this and I do not see how it can be justified either economically or environmentally.

    All of this is in a UK context
  11.  
    Mike,
    To clarify please find attached two PDFs showing my calcs showing the whole life cost of mineral wool insulation.

    Incremental Study:
    As noted in earlier post, under the least energy cost scenario (of 3.6p/kWh) a U-value of 0.2W/m2 is viable (based upon 30 year life at 3% energy inflation). If energy prices are higher than that (5.2p/kWh) then a cost effective U-value is 0.146 W/m2.

    You will also note that whilst a U-value of 0.1W/m2 is more costly than a U-value of 0.146W/m2 its least energy cost remains lower than that of a building with a U-value of 0.45W/m2, whilst the upper cost threshold remains lower than that of a 0.23W/m2 U-value building. Interestingly you will notice that the building insulation at 0.356W/m2 (current B.Regs) has the same whole life cost as a building insulated to 0.062W/m2.

    Energy cost inflation:
    Energy price inflation has also been assessed over 50 and 100 year scenarios. Under these conditions a U-value of 0.15W/m2 is the most viable.

    Validation:
    Finally, the results of these calcs bare a striking resemblance those in the Whole House Book and those undertaken by the PassivHaus Institute (though mine actually assess a range of energy prices).

    Acknowledgements:
    At this point I should recognise the contributions of Prof. Danny Harvey of Toronto University who was of great assistance in helping me to undertake this insulation study and note that the calcs were performed using algorithms used by NRCan.

    Mark

    P.S. For ease of calculation I used GJ rather than kWh, I converted the cost per kWh to cost per GJ i.e. 3.6p/kWh = £10/GJ.
   
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