I'm looking at Larch Cladding for the exterior of our new build, specifically horizontal cladding using a narrow channel profile. So far the quotes are all quite high £25/m2, can anyone suggest where I can get more modestly prices larch as I have a whole house to clad and I am trying to work to a budget!

Also, I'd like to fix the cladding with any surface nailing, anyone got any recommendation on technique or tools to help secret nail (or clip) without damaging the rather expensive boards??

I've no helpful suggestions unfortunately, but I'd be interested in hearing any suppliers that pop up, as I'll be asking for quotes for the same thing in a coupld of weeks.

If you're in Scotland, we could batch the order for a discount?

If you're looking for a "crisp" architectural line then IMO go for Siberian Larch. It's generally a better quality than UK larch, harder, denser, and closer grained. It's mainly imported in two grades, 1'st clear quality, ( unsorted ) and a more knotty grade known as ( sawfalling ). As Archmoco said you can pick it up at a reasonable price, usually sold by the l/m. The resin content is high so shouldn't need treating, many let it weather naturally.
Can you clarify the fixing you want to use?

Thanks for all the feedback so far.

Divorcingjack, unfortunately I'm not based in Scotland, I'm actually in Cumbria. I did find one saw mill in Scotland recommended on here as being very helpful and on the plus side it was run as a not for profit by a charity. http://www.scottishwood.co.uk/index.htm

Archmoco, I've PMd you with my email, thanks for the offer of the information.

Owlman, I am after a fairly crisp look to the outside, but not too crisp, so maybe smothish sawn rather than PAR, natural rather than shiny finish. Regarding the fixing, we visited a build last weekend and they had gone for the stainless steel surface nail option, so they had rows and rows of nails all neatly lined up, the next one we looked at had no visible fixings and this is the one we liked.

Owlman,

The facade is layered the timber is supported on bracket set about 300mm off the face of the blockwork, this allows me to hide all guttering and downpipes.

I also incorporated two IBC containers for rainwater collection, possitioned to be connect to the WC when I get the time, still have over flows and a lid to fit. You can see the differenct in the colour of the Larch cladding, the cladding below the water containers was fixxed 3/4 weeks ago, while the house was clad end of last summer.

Posted By: calvinmiddleTriassic Do you know how they managed to to have no visible fixing?

I think it's either secret nailing through the back of the groove in the T&G or stainless steel clips which slot into the groove and is then nailed into the batten - currently not sure!!

If you Goggle 'cladding clips' and look at 'Images' you will see that there are a variety of different designs available.

I'll take some closer photos tonight, but the boards are just screwed throught to the 4x2 uprights with 50mm stainless steel screws. I did have to ensure the boards were pre drilled as the torque of the screw driver would snap the softer stainless steel screw heads

Posted By: ArchmocoOwlman,

The facade is layered the timber is supported on bracket set about 300mm off the face of the blockwork, this allows me to hide all guttering and downpipes.

http:///forum114/extensions/InlineImages/image.php?AttachmentID=5087" >

A nice, clever solution, I like it; 10/10

Archmodo, I wouldn't mind those PDF's you mentioned, I was thinking about siberian larch. It looks stunning on your house. Are those internorm windows?

I'll send you a whisper with my email,

Cheers,
dj

Posted By: divorcingjackTriassic, thanks for the steer about that Sottish mill, they are half an hour down the road from me, so I may pop in over the next few weeks and have a look at what they have.

I used those guys for my waney edge Larch. They can do Kiln dried DAR as well.

On fixing, I used Galv nails IIRC but drilled a slightly oversize hole to allow for the shrinkage. The overlapping has one problem - leaves gaps for wasps and the like The problem with waney edge is the cupping - some goes one way some the other. Straight edge can all be set with the cup going the right way.

That's nice too. Best used to be waney elm, which had really exagerated edge features - but no more, sadly - and larch going toward extinction too.

Posted By: hairydudemy wife wants a stain finish

Left mine untreated to weather naturally.

@Archmoco

I like that roof :-)

Ferdinand

fostertom,

Once I had decided on a modern shed aesthetic it was a material I was always going to use, I like the corrigated effect. I wanted to use materials that I could work with. Metal rusts and drums in the rain, or there are issues cutting etc, or if you go down standing seam route too expensive and specialist. I needed a material A joiner and myself could work with. I did a few projects in university with fibre cement and always wanted a chance to use it.

I've used onduline on a couple of agriculture type buildings and it's great but a bit lightweight, I would be surprised if you would get more than 15-20yrs out of it, on my own house I wanted something abit more solid, and my site is quite exposed.

Regarding suppliers I use Cembrit. I had no experience with them but they had a new profile B5 that I liked, not too small and not too large. Marley have a couple of profiles, the smaller profile was too expensive and Cembrit had a supplier close by so I went with them. I had a look at a Belgian product that a large building supplier was bringing in, it has a great paint technology, the best of the lot, but the corrigation/profile was just too large and I was keen to use a UK product.

Cost wise I would need to dig out the receipts but each sheet was approx £25, I will check. I had never worked with the product before but I'm surprised how strong the material is, but I'm told it will become more fragile over time. It's also a fairly heavy sheet and there were some interesting moments on the scaffolding when the wind picked up!