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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorNewbuild
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022
     
    In my (not new) anymore new build we have a detail in the eves that I am trying to improve / weighing up options.

    Essentially we have 500mm of rockwool horizontal loft insulation in an unventilated loft and where this meets the roof at the eves it shrinks down to the available rafter depth, circa 60mm minus 20mm. Unfortunaly there is no hip in the roof to accommodate a deep amount of insulation over the eves.

    I have retrofitted ventilators on the wall plate since there is an over eves ventilator but it was blocked by the roof insulation initially - The insulation itself cant be carried over the eves so much since there is a cavity tray running horizontally where a double height lintel protrudes up level with the wall plate. The cavity below is 100mm full fill.

    Is there anything I can do to improve this junction? I am just weighing up options, I would mostly like to avoid air infiltration down the cavity or worse down the void behind plasterboards.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022
     
    Any chance of a section sketch?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022 edited
     
    See what Tony’s house did, false skeiling ceilings to overcome the problem.

    http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/mitigation-of-thermal-bridging/
    • CommentAuthorjon
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2022
     
    False ceilings a good idea

    In extension, I went for excessively large ceiling rafters, which mean I would wrap around and down into the cavity

    For the retrofit, which sounds similar to yours, I used PIR sheets (40mm) going about 200 between joists and continuing only partly over the wall plate. brought the rockwool over that, Just under the joists I then put in 90mm shaped blocks down to the cavity (which was already filled with balls). Very much a compromise.
    • CommentAuthorjon
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2022
     
    One thing I forgot:

    Have you considered making the architrave massive? (eg 250x250 triangular and done in PIR or maybe poly) It's something I've been looking at but might have to wait until I do a major internal refurb before it gets much more thought.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2022
     
    Coving?
    • CommentAuthorNewbuild
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2022
     
    I will work on a section sketch but it's been awhile since I have been up there and took some images.

    Everything so far sounds like great ideas. Don't know if I will be able to get away with selling aesthetically.

    Is there a practical way of shoving PIR into the cavity and then sealing it above the wallplate somehow? Is there any reason for there to be a cavity tray present at this location? I think the gap in insulation is because the cavity tray has ended up horizontal.

    the window opening has a double height lintel above it, which protrudes up level with the wallplate.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2022
     
    It is easy to work on that zone before the roof goes on. The cavity tray is not needed above soffit height.

    Wind and cold air behind the plasterboard is too big a story to do in this thread, see dot and dab or plasterboard tents!
    • CommentAuthorjon
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2022
     
    Coving. Sorry Tony!

    Our wall is filled with balls (from a fit done before we bought it). Found the best way to deal with that was to pack the top of the cavity with rockwool: another compromise (but we have lots of weird details so that didn't always work).

    First realised there was something seriously wrong with the first poly-ball installation when I opened up the basement area (more of a deep undercroft but basement sounds posher). Found piles of balls next to the front and back walls in the basement. Installers had pumped balls in without realising that the cavity was open to the basement. So some areas had to be closed and then re-filled (used about 70 cubic feet's worth)
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: Newbuild
    Is there a practical way of shoving PIR into the cavity and then sealing it above the wallplate somehow?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2022
     
    My comment doesnt seem to be displaying even though its there if I go to edit it, so heres what I said-

    Yep. Buy or borrow an alloy scaffold tower, section at a time strip off the roof covering and add insulation from the comfort of the scaffold. Theres not really any other way to properly retrofit insulation to the eaves.

    We did this pre covid and extended the loft insulation to meet the blown fibre cavity fill. Found lots of areas in the cavity with no insulation so that got remedied at the same time. Fitted 500mm lengths of waste pipe to the side of each rafter for ventilation over the wall plate then full filled the area to the underside of the felt. No gap needed with the waste pipe "duct"
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2022
     
    👍
    • CommentAuthorNewbuild
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2022
     
    Here is my attempt at the section.

    :shocked:

    https://ibb.co/DQDYwgY


    Hopefully you can make out 500mm of horizontal insulation meets the pitched roof and retrofitted eves spacer, leaving about 60mm over the wall plate.

    Yes the opening does have a double height steel lintel for some reason and the rafter is nibbed to accommodate it, it also makes the lintel height level with the bottom of the wall plate.

    Eves spacer was fitted retrospective as the insulation was blocking the over eves vent and all this caused was air from outside to get forced down the wall plate and ceiling plasterboard gap.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2022
     
    Strip the roof and work from a scaffold. Plasterboard gaps can be foam sealed. Lintels can be clad in as much PIR as you can get in to the underside of the felt with tubular vents fitted to each rafter. Loft insulation can be full filled to join the cavity where theres no lintel
    • CommentAuthorNewbuild
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2022
     
    Sounds like a summer job! :cool:

    Would there be any benefit in going from below via the reveal ? Is it likely that insulation between lintel is missing?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2022
     
    Once youve got into the swing of things, you can strip and reinstate the roof quicker than youll likely be able to reinstate plaster work, redecorate the reveal and clean up. Id strip and inspect from the roof side and do as much work from there as is possible. Only work from the inside if absolutely necessary
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2022
     
    +1
    • CommentAuthorNewbuild
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2022
     
    Well I need to attend to the reveals anyway as the windows are flush with the cavity closer - in some areas the internal plasterboard is attached to the outer single leaf lintel.
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