Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
Posted By: TunaSo, breathability does not prevent building failure through gross leaks.
Posted By: Peter ClarkNo, but it is designed explicitly to help deal with such leaks.
Posted By: fostertomMikeG, I'm coming to that asap!
Cambridge paper yes, plus any others
Posted By: Peter Clark
The general problem is that IF some water gets in to that construction it may be hard to get out again. That might be all right too, depending on how much gets in and where.
Posted By: Peter Clark
If a tile slips and is not noticed for a while, water could run onto the breather and through into the rafter/insulation.
Posted By: Peter Clark
Might the damp have a detrimental effect on the rafters? If the insulation in between and below the rafters was hygroscopic, it would protect the rafters. If it had good capillarity, the water could run throughout the structure and not pool. If it was very vapour open in addition, it could dry out faster. This would happen especially if the 5:1 ratio of vapour openness was present.
Posted By: Peter Clark
If a hole is created in the plaster/vapour barrier, eg by picture hooks, water vapour could be getting in there, at a very low rate, but maybe continuously, day and night, for months on end, each year, year after year.
Posted By: Peter Clark
A sloping ceiling/roof is probably the safest bet, as I am sure you were aware when you chose it. What about the same kind of construction for a wall – with electrical sockets and service penetrations through to the outside?
Posted By: Peter Clark
It all depends on the plastic vapour retarder being installed perfectly, is this realistic? What about the joints between the plastic sheets? Will they be perfect? How long will the adhesive last?
Posted By: davidfreeboroughMike
So how about:
12.5mm plasterboard;
0.3mm polyethylene VCL, laps & edges taped;
30mm PUR below rafters;
150mm Crown Rafter Roll 32 between 150mm rafters;
Tyvek Supro Plus sarking membrane, laps & edges taped;
38mm counter battens, 25mm vent to eaves, 5mm vent to ridge;
25mm tile battens.
This has a slightly better U value than the all PUR approach (0.16 versus 0.17) and is probably lower risk in terms of condensation. The ventilated batten cavity would be seen by some as belt and braces, but you could see it as insurance against moss filling the gaps around the tiles. Would this cost any more than you're currently paying?
David
Posted By: Mike GeorgeSo anything [peer reviewed or otherwise] which does not fit with your point of view on how vapour 'behaves' is wrong?If I'm right, they're very wrong - as usual my 'listeners' must be the judge of that. Do you feel that you're in my firing line Mike? If so, I wasn't particularly aware of that.
Posted By: fostertomDo you feel that you're in my firing line Mike?
Posted By: fostertomWhat's all this faith in peers? Peers are by definition the ones who hold the conventional wisdom. Peers' fate is to be invoked when they agree with one, and to be ignored or rubbished when they don't. Majority (or even unanimous) agreement is not the same as the truth. There's no escape from the onerous duty to decide for oneself.
Posted By: Mike George This is my standard sloping ceiling scenario. From Inside to outside
Plaster, painted with matt emulsion
12.5mm standard plasterboad fixed with 45mm galvanised clouts at 400mm centers. All board edges fixed into timber noggins
Cheap polythene lapped accross at least 2 rafters and fixed with standard mild steel staples. Polythene lapped down walls to ensure continued air barrier at walls
30mm PUR insulation fixed with 65mm clouts to underside of rafters. Joints filled with expanding PUR foam
150mm x 50mm rafters at 400mm centers. Voids filled with 100mm PUR flush with rafter undersides and deliberately cut to leave 10mm short of rafters. The 10mm filled from above and below with expanding PUR foam.
Clear 50mm cavity between rafters above insulation
Breathable roofing membrane
Slates/Tiles on treated roofing batten
Eaves vented with continuous overfascia vents
Ridge vented with dry ridge ventilation system.
Some would argue that some parts of this construction make-up are unnecessary [such as a breather membrane]. But other than varying the insulation thickness to improve u-value, I believe it to be a belt and braces approach - Is it?
Posted By: Mike George
No, if the breather membrane is undamaged and correctly lapped, no water will get in.
Posted By: Mike George
Significant water getting in from above would show itself [somewhere] quickly. Smaller leaks would not affect the construction as the surface area of rafters exposed is such that a high level of ventilation would be adequate to ensure such water would evaporate and be vented away.
Any water vapour which migrates from the internal environment would also be vented in the same way.
Posted By: Mike George
Peter Clark
If a hole is created in the plaster/vapour barrier, eg by picture hooks, water vapour could be getting in there, at a very low rate, but maybe continuously, day and night, for months on end, each year, year after year.
Mike George
This may happen, depending on internal conditions but is unimportant due to my ventilation comments above.
In general, the risk of humidity levels being high enough to cause significant risk of interstitial condensation are exaggerated in my opinion. Bedrooms for example do not continually ‘force’ water vapour into the fabric in a way suggested by some. It’s complete rubbish.
Posted By: Mike GeorgeI don’t like timber framed walls personally, due to the risk of someone somewhere along the line getting it wrong.
Posted By: Mike GeorgeObviously there is nothing wrong with it when it is designed correctly and installed as such.
Posted By: Mike GeorgeUnfortunately, the complexity of the 5:1 design style makes problems more likely in my opinion
Posted By: Mike GeorgeMasonry on the other hand, is easier for everyone to design and build at least in terms of basic weathering and hence durability.Correct installation of insulation however is another argument
Posted By: Mike Georgewhich is why I use partial fill PUR
Posted By: Mike GeorgeNo adhesive involved. Everything is physically lapped and trapped. Staple holes are insignificant, again because of above rafter ventilation
Posted By: Mike GeorgeWow Peter, that is a rather long list of queries. I'm not going to answer them sorry as I simply don't have the time. In any case I would only be repeating comments I have already made. I think we are going around in circles and it was obviously a mistake [on my part] to digress from the original focus of the thread by posting what I still believe to be my optimum [sloping]cold roof construction.
Posted By: TimberTo be honest, most of what people say and assume about breathability is just opinion and conjecture, and that includes what i say and think as well. Things like condensation risk calcs are all well and good but they are far too simplistic to really give a good and robust understanding, and that is even more undermined when the information from the product manufacturer's is sometimes completely wrong!
Timber