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Essential for Newbies: Intro from 1960s Bungalow Retrofit Newbies

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  1.  
    Hi all,
    We moved into our ‘old persons’ 1960s brick-built bungalow in October 2022 which needs fully updating so thought it an ideal project for an eco-retrofit.

    I’ve been stalking the forum for a while, taking in advice and comments on approaches etc, and thought it time to join to get some expert views on our approach to help get it right.

    This is our approach based on my research, but things are still fluid, we will be getting started with renovations in about 3 weeks. We will be living in the property during this time, just to add an extra challenge!

    - there is existing fibre cavity insulation, which we will get checked with a view to rectifying if required
    - We have ruled out EWI due to cost (£19k :shocked:)
    - replace all windows and doors using airtight methods
    - remove all fibreglass insulation from loft space, replace with under-rafter insulation and make loft space airtight to create a warm loft
    - Install MVHR
    - insulate above the suspended timber floor, replace or alter door casings (only 3 will remain due to layout changes), replace all skirting (would do anyway) make airtight. We decided it would be less-disruptive than insulating under the floor and room height is currently 2.5m
    - Install airtight wood burner in living area (1/3 of the house footprint)
    - We have been considering a combined heat pump for some heating/cooling with infrared panels and maybe electric UFH to supplement but these are energy intensive, and I have seen very mixed views on the combined units, so currently looking at water UFH with either an electric boiler or ASHP (at a min of £6k, this isn’t a favoured option :cry:)

    Due to the house layout, hot water delivery means a lot of wasted water, so I am considering heating at the point of use. We don’t have a bath, will use a dishwasher and it’s just the two of us likely working from home, so requirement for hot water is low.

    As the loft roof is so low, the purlins prohibit access to the edges, so we plan to drop the ceilings enough to gain access to insulate, make airtight, rewire and install vents (and do any remediation for thermal bridging - I haven’t researched this yet!). The roof is the original construction, but we will be looking to replace after at least another 10 years (hopefully solar tiles will be an affordable option by then), so need to bear this in mind, which is why we are insulation below the rafters - they are very shallow anyway.

    Any advice or comments on our approach are very welcome.

    Many thanks in advance,
    Denys and Keith (North Wales)
  2.  
    Posted By: GreenApprenticethere is existing fibre cavity insulation, which we will get checked with a view to rectifying if required

    Good idea

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeWe have ruled out EWI due to cost (£19khttp:///newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/shocked.gif" alt=":shocked:" title=":shocked:" >)

    Understandable

    Posted By: GreenApprenticereplace all windows and doors using airtight methods

    OK

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeInstall MVHR

    Yes, needed if air tight

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeinsulate above the suspended timber floor, replace or alter door casings (only 3 will remain due to layout changes), replace all skirting (would do anyway) make airtight. We decided it would be less-disruptive than insulating under the floor and room height is currently 2.5m

    What is the depth of the floor void ? I fit is not too deep then consider full fill with eps beads. I'm a bit surprised you don't have any solid floors.

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeInstall airtight wood burner in living area (1/3 of the house footprint)

    What is the current heating method ? Do you have a source of dry fire wood ?


    Posted By: GreenApprenticeWe have been considering a combined heat pump for some heating/cooling with infrared panels and maybe electric UFH to supplement but these are energy intensive, and I have seen very mixed views on the combined units, so currently looking at water UFH with either an electric boiler or ASHP (at a min of £6k, this isn’t a favoured optionhttp:///newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/cry.gif" alt=":cry:" title=":cry:" >)

    By the time you have installed electric UFH wjhich has a COP of 1 Perhaps an air to air ASHP COP 3 - 4 might come out cheaper t install and to run.

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeDue to the house layout, hot water delivery means a lot of wasted water, so I am considering heating at the point of use. We don’t have a bath, will use a dishwasher and it’s just the two of us likely working from home, so requirement for hot water is low.

    Do you have enough amps on your electricial supply to run multiple water heaters plus other proposals (UFH, MVHR, ASHP etc.)

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeAs the loft roof is so low, the purlins prohibit access to the edges, so we plan to drop the ceilings enough to gain access to insulate, make airtight, rewire and install vents (and do any remediation for thermal bridging - I haven’t researched this yet!). The roof is the original construction, but we will be looking to replace after at least another 10 years (hopefully solar tiles will be an affordable option by then), so need to bear this in mind, which is why we are insulation below the rafters - they are very shallow anyway.

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeremove all fibreglass insulation from loft space, replace with under-rafter insulation and make loft space airtight to create a warm loft

    IMO retro fitting a warm roof will be difficult if DIY and probably impossible if using contractors. The warm roof will need to be as air tight as the house which will be difficult at the eaves if DIY and contractors won't take the needed care to ensure a good job (assuming they know the importance of what they are doing)
    Perhaps it would be easier to insulate conventionally over the rafters, using blown cellulose for the eaves and putting the MVHR in a box which is insulated over to get in inside the thermal envelope. If it can be located near the loft hatch then incorporate that into the box. If you use the square ducting this can be run at the wall / ceiling junction without being obtrusive and doing this will negate the need to remove the ceilings which will create an unholy mess - The mess will not needed if you are living in the place throughout.

    Why replace the roof in 10 years time ? Can conventional PV be installed now ?
  3.  
    Not sure if my reply will work properly so will just reply to one question first.

    http://What is the depth of the floor void ? I fit is not too deep then consider full fill with eps beads. I'm a bit surprised you don't have any solid floors." >

    The joists are 90mm and the gap to concrete is 350mm
  4.  
    Trying again

    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    What is the depth of the floor void ? I fit is not too deep then consider full fill with eps beads. I'm a bit surprised you don't have any solid floors.


    90mm joists then 350mm gap to concrete

    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    What is the current heating method ? Do you have a source of dry fire wood ?


    it was gas central heating, just removed it all and had gas disconnected. Not free wood but happy to pay for the lovely ambiance when needed
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Do you have enough amps on your electricial supply to run multiple water heaters plus other proposals (UFH, MVHR, ASHP etc.)


    The electrics all need to be replaced so I'm assuming this will be ok

    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    IMO retro fitting a warm roof will be difficult if DIY and probably impossible if using contractors. The warm roof will need to be as air tight as the house which will be difficult at the eaves if DIY and contractors won't take the needed care to ensure a good job (assuming they know the importance of what they are doing)
    Perhaps it would be easier to insulate conventionally over the rafters, using blown cellulose for the eaves and putting the MVHR in a box which is insulated over to get in inside the thermal envelope. If it can be located near the loft hatch then incorporate that into the box. If you use the square ducting this can be run at the wall / ceiling junction without being obtrusive and doing this will negate the need to remove the ceilings which will create an unholy mess - The mess will not needed if you are living in the place throughout.

    Why replace the roof in 10 years time ? Can conventional PV be installed now ?


    It has more life left in it as it is and we can't afford to do the roof on top of all the other renovations right now, solar will have to wait as we were quoted £14.5k and don't have the budget for that right now either. We think our budget will manage the windows/doors, insulation/airtightness, hot water and heating and fully finishing part of the house, but the living area changes and new kitchen will have to wait.

    As for warm roof, we figured that it would be lesser of the evils to do that rather than all the airtight shenanigans needed for lights, MVHR vents entering into the loft area and the requirement to insulate all ducting.
    • CommentAuthorDougmlancs
    • CommentTimeJun 19th 2023 edited
     
    £14.5k?! Was that with battery storage? It would be worthwhile getting some more quotes. A typical 4.4kW PV only system should be around £5.5-6k. If you can get 7kW of panels up there then maybe £1.5k more. With Octopus’s export rates then the best return is just stopping there and use the earnings from summer surplus to help get you through the winter. I added a 9.5kW battery for £3.5k ready for my ASHP but equally batteries could be added at a later date when funds allow and there’s rumours of them being zero rated for VAT in their own right.

    When you say you took out the central heating , does that include the radiators? If you don’t have radiators anymore then I’d second the suggestion to look at air-to-air heat pumps. My brother has a 60’s bungalow that had night storage so he took them out and fitted two single A2A heat pump units and it heats their 3 bed bungalow plus extension comfortably and their insulation levels are only average at the moment. Cost him £5k all in.
  6.  
    Posted By: Dougmlancs£14.5k?! Was that with battery storage? It would be worthwhile getting some more quotes. A typical 4.4kW PV only system should be around £5.5-6k. If you can get 7kW of panels up there then maybe £1.5k more. With Octopus’s export rates then the best return is just stopping there and use the earnings from summer surplus to help get you through the winter. I added a 9.5kW battery for £3.5k ready for my ASHP but equally batteries could be added at a later date when funds allow and there’s rumours of them being zero rated for VAT in their own right.

    When you say you took out the central heating , does that include the radiators? If you don’t have radiators anymore then I’d second the suggestion to look at air-to-air heat pumps. My brother has a 60’s bungalow that had night storage so he took them out and fitted two single A2A heat pump units and it heats their 3 bed bungalow plus extension comfortably and their insulation levels are only average at the moment. Cost him £5k all in.


    It was for 5.25kW with 9.5kW battery for £12.7K, the dearer quote was £14.5K and 5kW with 9.5kW battery

    The system was old and I don’t want rads. I did think about air to air ASHP but was put off by someone, can’t remember why.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 19th 2023
     
    Air-to-air you will most likely need a multi-split. You'll need multiple heat emitters in various places through the house.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 19th 2023 edited
     
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeWe have ruled out EWI due to cost (£19k)
    That seems a lot, for say 60m2. Even the old £100/m2 of wall area guideline ought to still cover such a simple building. You're already facing
    Posted By: GreenApprenticereplace all windows and doors using airtight methods
    That can cost under £400/m2 face-area to buy, excellent triple glazed pre-finished timber from Russell Timbertech. So much better to do both together - max bang for buck in terms of insulation/airtightness etc.
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeexisting fibre cavity insulation
    really isn't up to the job.

    At that you'll barely need a space-heating system.
  9.  
    Posted By: GreenApprentice90mm joists then 350mm gap to concrete

    Hopefully tony will be along soon to better advise on full fill with EPS beads. It will certainly save new floors throughout - which allows that cost to be deferred and saves the need to either get non-standard doors to fit the reduced openings or otherwise raise the openings and the work for this will vary depending upon the type of walls. Raising the door openings on a cavity wall can be a pain.

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeit was gas central heating, just removed it all and had gas disconnected. Not free wood but happy to pay for the lovely ambiance when needed

    Sometimes it is a mistake to remove existing infrastructure entirely before a total plan is formulated. If you intend to use the wood burner for ambiance - OK but if it is intended to be used as a (useful) part of the heating system then the expense of wood and adequate pre purchase (wood should be seasoned 2 years) with the storage space that implies has to be considered added to the fact that wood burning is messy and dirty if done with an internal stove. (Cost wise over here ready cut fire wood is the same price as heating with gas)

    Posted By: GreenApprentice
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Do you have enough amps on your electricial supply to run multiple water heaters plus other proposals (UFH, MVHR, ASHP etc.)


    The electrics all need to be replaced so I'm assuming this will be ok

    The electrics will be replaced by a qualified electrician. The provision of sufficient supply is down to the local supplier and subject to the availability of the grid in your area.
    I would suggest talking to you electrician of choice with your wish list and get him to give a load requirement then go and talk to your supplier to see if that is possible. And whilst you are talking to the supplier ask about how much PV they will allow you to connect - just to give you an idea for when you want PV.

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeAs for warm roof, we figured that it would be lesser of the evils to do that rather than all the airtight shenanigans needed for lights, MVHR vents entering into the loft area and the requirement to insulate all ducting.

    You will have many more airtight shenanigans retro fitting a warm roof than making a few light fitting air tight. Hav e a look at the duct sizes needed and see what square or rectangle ducts fit the bill and then imagine thin in the corner of the ceiling. Otherwise putting then in the loft and then insulating over is the way I would do it, not have the ducts outside the insulation and separately insulated.

    You say you will start in 3 weeks - but IMO some of the questions coming up here are a bit too fundamental (like will there be enough electricity available to be all electric and what sort of heating system is to be finalised) so that if care is not taken expensive do overs may result.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023
     
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeAs the loft roof is so low, the purlins prohibit access to the edges, so we plan to drop the ceilings enough to gain access to insulate, make airtight, rewire and install vents (and do any remediation for thermal bridging - I haven’t researched this yet!). The roof is the original construction, but we will be looking to replace after at least another 10 years (hopefully solar tiles will be an affordable option by then), so need to bear this in mind, which is why we are insulation below the rafters - they are very shallow anyway.

    Particularly in a bungalow, its very straight forward to remove the roof covering over the eaves/tops of walls to seal up and insulate. It allows you to tie in the insulation over the ceiling with that in the cavity.

    It also lets you take photos of missing blown cavity insulation and get the installers back to finish the job!!
  11.  
    Posted By: fostertom
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeWe have ruled out EWI due to cost (£19k)
    That seems a lot, for say 60m2. Even the old £100/m2 of wall area guideline ought to still cover such a simple building. You're already facing
    Posted By: GreenApprenticereplace all windows and doors using airtight methods
    That can cost under £400/m2 face-area to buy, excellent triple glazed pre-finished timber from Russell Timbertech. So much better to do both together - max bang for buck in terms of insulation/airtightness etc.
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeexisting fibre cavity insulation
    really isn't up to the job.

    At that you'll barely need a space-heating system.


    Thanks for your comments, their price is £186ish per sqm, which includes silicone render. Having read on here about issues with EWI and cavity combination, it put me off as it means effectively doing both, as after the past winter, I’m pretty sure the CWI has failed. Perhaps we’ll look at IWI, but losing room size is a worry. If we removed the fibre CWI and replaced with glued beads, would that be any good on its own?
  12.  
    Posted By: philedge
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeAs the loft roof is so low, the purlins prohibit access to the edges, so we plan to drop the ceilings enough to gain access to insulate, make airtight, rewire and install vents (and do any remediation for thermal bridging - I haven’t researched this yet!). The roof is the original construction, but we will be looking to replace after at least another 10 years (hopefully solar tiles will be an affordable option by then), so need to bear this in mind, which is why we are insulation below the rafters - they are very shallow anyway.

    Particularly in a bungalow, its very straight forward to remove the roof covering over the eaves/tops of walls to seal up and insulate. It allows you to tie in the insulation over the ceiling with that in the cavity.

    It also lets you take photos of missing blown cavity insulation and get the installers back to finish the job!!


    Thanks for suggestion, we had considered this (if required), and we’ll be replacing all the fascia etc anyway so may also make access easier. There is 2 years left on the guarantee but the company no longer exists so I am considering contacting CIGA if I collect enough evidence
  13.  
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Posted By: GreenApprentice90mm joists then 350mm gap to concrete

    Hopefully tony will be along soon to better advise on full fill with EPS beads. It will certainly save new floors throughout - which allows that cost to be deferred and saves the need to either get non-standard doors to fit the reduced openings or otherwise raise the openings and the work for this will vary depending upon the type of walls. Raising the door openings on a cavity wall can be a pain.

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeit was gas central heating, just removed it all and had gas disconnected. Not free wood but happy to pay for the lovely ambiance when needed

    Sometimes it is a mistake to remove existing infrastructure entirely before a total plan is formulated. If you intend to use the wood burner for ambiance - OK but if it is intended to be used as a (useful) part of the heating system then the expense of wood and adequate pre purchase (wood should be seasoned 2 years) with the storage space that implies has to be considered added to the fact that wood burning is messy and dirty if done with an internal stove. (Cost wise over here ready cut fire wood is the same price as heating with gas)

    Posted By: GreenApprentice
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Do you have enough amps on your electricial supply to run multiple water heaters plus other proposals (UFH, MVHR, ASHP etc.)


    The electrics all need to be replaced so I'm assuming this will be ok

    The electrics will be replaced by a qualified electrician. The provision of sufficient supply is down to the local supplier and subject to the availability of the grid in your area.
    I would suggest talking to you electrician of choice with your wish list and get him to give a load requirement then go and talk to your supplier to see if that is possible. And whilst you are talking to the supplier ask about how much PV they will allow you to connect - just to give you an idea for when you want PV.

    Posted By: GreenApprenticeAs for warm roof, we figured that it would be lesser of the evils to do that rather than all the airtight shenanigans needed for lights, MVHR vents entering into the loft area and the requirement to insulate all ducting.

    You will have many more airtight shenanigans retro fitting a warm roof than making a few light fitting air tight. Hav e a look at the duct sizes needed and see what square or rectangle ducts fit the bill and then imagine thin in the corner of the ceiling. Otherwise putting then in the loft and then insulating over is the way I would do it, not have the ducts outside the insulation and separately insulated.

    You say you will start in 3 weeks - but IMO some of the questions coming up here are a bit too fundamental (like will there be enough electricity available to be all electric and what sort of heating system is to be finalised) so that if care is not taken expensive do overs may result.


    Thanks for all your input, you’ve provided a great reality-check. We’re not worried about the doors, there are 2 internal doors that will remain that can get new casings, and raising the height to match all the other new ones we’re putting in should be straight forward in single skin with prob only 4 brick courses above at present (if there’s lintels! It seems they didn’t favour them when these houses were built, giving us much more work when replacing the windows on the gables)
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023 edited
     
    Posted By: GreenApprenticetheir price is £186ish per sqm, which includes silicone render
    That's truly shocking info. And I see it's 80m2 (generous for a Council OP bungalow!) not 60m2 as I assumed. Any other complicating features? You have looked for other quotes? Acrylic render is the basic, only downside is growth of discolouring algae in wet or tree-shaded locations such as Devon.
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeissues with EWI and cavity combination, it put me off as it means effectively doing both
    Not sure what those issues are but I'd simply abandon the CWI.
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeremoved the fibre CWI and replaced with glued beads, would that be any good on its own?
    No better, still inadequate.
  15.  
    Posted By: GreenApprenticelintels! It seems they didn’t favour them when these houses were built


    no lintel above the window in our 1975 bathroom extension gable either. It made for a bit of a hit & hope when removing the old window to replace it.

    Welcome to the forum!

    I wouldn't bother with the woodburner, spend the money on insulation and/or heat pump instead. They are cheerily referred to on this forum as "in-house winter cooling systems". We have 2 in the farmhouse, but none in the newly converted barn. Just so unnecessary. Also have you costed the woodburner & flue?
    • CommentAuthorDougmlancs
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023 edited
     
    Posted By: GreenApprentice
    Thanks for the info, do you have any details for the system installed so I can take a look, our house is tiny (circa 80m2) and will be split into 1/3 living area at the back, spare bed in middle with utility opposite the hallway and master and office at front


    It was originally 101m2 laid out as below. The two outdoor units are marked in red right at the bottom and the indoor units are in Bedroom 1 and the Living Room as marked. Because of where the living room unit was going, the had to pipe it through the loft and add a circulation pump. They’re timber frame with mineral wool batts but now have funding to upgrade this.

    They built a 28m2 extension to the right of the floor plan and originally thought they’d need to take a split off the larger ASHP to heat it but last winter they found they actually didn’t need it.
      IMG_5187.jpeg
    • CommentAuthorDougmlancs
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023
     
    And here’s the quote detail
      IMG_5786.jpeg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryThe provision of sufficient supply is down to the local supplier and subject to the availability of the grid in your area.
    I don't think there's likely to be a problem in the UK.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023
     
    Posted By: Dominic CooneyI wouldn't bother with the woodburner, spend the money on insulation and/or heat pump instead
    Agree - in fact not bother with the heat pump either, spend as much money as poss on the insulation/airtightness so space heating demand is so small you can make do with a couple of Lidl convector heaters! Maybe I exaggerate but you're right there on the tipping-point.
  20.  
    Posted By: fostertom
    Posted By: GreenApprenticetheir price is £186ish per sqm, which includes silicone render
    That's truly shocking info. And I see it's 80m2 (generous for a Council OP bungalow!) not 60m2 as I assumed. Any other complicating features? You have looked for other quotes? Acrylic render is the basic, only downside is growth of discolouring algae in wet or tree-shaded locations such as Devon.
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeissues with EWI and cavity combination, it put me off as it means effectively doing both
    Not sure what those issues are but I'd simply abandon the CWI.
    Posted By: GreenApprenticeremoved the fibre CWI and replaced with glued beads, would that be any good on its own?
    No better, still inadequate.


    Sorry, misled saying old persons bungalow, I meant it needs upgrading as the old person before us didn’t do anything for decades. It’s not an ex-council bungalow.
    We live 3/4 miles from sea, so have been advised to do silicone. I read that air wash within a cavity will negate some EWI benefits.
    I struggled to find one contractor, I’ll ask my neighbour for some more as he is a council surveyor and has dealt with many. He’s advised that we add extra ties if we do EWI to strengthen the wall. We’ve considered doing insulation ourselves and getting a renderer to finish. We’re pretty competent DIYers and did full house renovations on last house.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023 edited
     
    Seaside silicone - maybe - take advice from suppliers. I've found Parex brilliant - very willing travelling reps who bend over backwards to set even DIY fitters on the right course.

    Yes, do the fitting yourselves, thus achieving highest quality - foaming the block-edge joints, sealing to perfection around the windows (which you will fit outboard, within the EWI zone, not touching the extg masonry) - and a plasterer to finish - you'll save a ton.

    Air wash within the cavity is baloney IMO. For a start, the EWI will be near-airtight if done right; the inner leaf of the existing wall will be fully part of the internal environment, the cavity air and the outer leaf nearly so (the weaker the CWI the better!) so minimal temp differences between them for 'air wash' to affect.

    'Extra ties'? What's that - wall ties between inner and outer skins? If that's needed, you've got a real problem! If he means mechanical fixing of the EWI, that's unlikely - consult the Parex rep - prob only if the existing wall has unsound paint or something on it, that EWI-fix adhesive won't bond reliably to.
  22.  
    Welcome! Busy thread. Just like old times!!

    Please don't discount EWI. OK, I have just done mine very expensively with wood-fibre and lime, but if you are not averse to EPS (the graphite-enghanced version thereof) there are some very good prices out there. I have used EWIstore, although I am sure plenty of others exist. Try to ensure you get a trade account with whoever you go to.

    I did not do my own rendering but if I had a bungalow I would have. It helps if you have rendered or plastered before but the thin coat renders and the buy-in-a-bucket 'gritty top-coats' are pretty forgiving.

    Don't discount the risks of thermal by-pass, if cold air is able to move within the cavities. You either hope that your CWI is doing a good job of stopping it (though 'fluff' was not designed to stop air) or you seal any 'ins' at low level and cap the top.

    Will your windows be timber, uPVC or other? What I have in mind is that if window replacement comes earlier, you may realise they are in the wrong position once you EWI. There is a general consensus (I think) that it is best to 'hang the windows out' in a ply (or other - I think perhaps James Ingram on here used cement board - or I may be dreaminng that!)box. You could still do that, and do 'temporary' sealing, if the EWI was to come witin a couple of years of the windows. If your CWI is good enough to achieve the 'headline' U value of 0.55W/m2K then 150 gEPS EWI should get you around 0.16W/m2K. Not so bad. 200 would get you arpound 0.125W/m2K.
  23.  
    Ah!, just seen FT's earlier post.We differ a bit re wind in the cavity, but valid points. In my case I had to take off some panelling and behind it the open end of the cavity at a bay window opening was blowing a gale! We think we found where that came from but I was not going to risk spending a lot of thousands without filling the cavity - just for 'air-stilling', not for the 'thermals'.

    We're back on the same sheet re the windows anyway!



    :bigsmile:
  24.  
    Posted By: Dominic Cooney
    Posted By: GreenApprenticelintels! It seems they didn’t favour them when these houses were built


    no lintel above the window in our 1975 bathroom extension gable either. It made for a bit of a hit & hope when removing the old window to replace it.

    Welcome to the forum!

    I wouldn't bother with the woodburner, spend the money on insulation and/or heat pump instead. They are cheerily referred to on this forum as "in-house winter cooling systems". We have 2 in the farmhouse, but none in the newly converted barn. Just so unnecessary. Also have you costed the woodburner & flue?


    Thank you

    I’ve earmarked £4k for it which is a lot for ambiance, I’m beginning to like the idea of a BBQ-bar-hut in the back to fulfill my pyromaniac needs. I told my hubby that I wouldn’t compromise on the wood burner because we loved it so much in the last house …. But … maybe I’ll swap the hut for it :devil:
  25.  
    I also understand the going rate for EWI is £150-200/m² at the moment, but difficult to find a specialist contractor for a single property project, there is lots of demand from HAs/landlords getting their whole portfolios done to meet their EPC rules. I'm finding it difficult to justify tbh at that rate. Funding might be available from your council, even if not on benefits.

    Just to mention that if a single contractor supplies and installs then it's zero VAT, but if you buy in the various materials trades scaffolding separately, then liable for VAT.

    Cavities are supposed to be somewhat ventilated (is how they dry out after driving rain) so expect lots of holes into the cavity from the subfloor void and the loft, as well as extra holes created by 60 years of plumbers and sparkies!
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023 edited
     
    Posted By: GreenApprentice

    There is 2 years left on the guarantee but the company no longer exists so I am considering contacting CIGA if I collect enough evidence

    Likely youll only need one bit of evidence if it wasn't done properly. We contacted them and a surveyor was out within a week or two. He knew exactly where there were likely gaps and had a schedule of remedial works done in an hour. All the remedial work was done in another couple of weeks so a pretty good response
  27.  
    Posted By: Nick ParsonsWelcome! Busy thread. Just like old times!!

    Please don't discount EWI. OK, I have just done mine very expensively with wood-fibre and lime, but if you are not averse to EPS (the graphite-enghanced version thereof) there are some very good prices out there. I have used EWIstore, although I am sure plenty of others exist. Try to ensure you get a trade account with whoever you go to.

    I did not do my own rendering but if I had a bungalow I would have. It helps if you have rendered or plastered before but the thin coat renders and the buy-in-a-bucket 'gritty top-coats' are pretty forgiving.

    Don't discount the risks of thermal by-pass, if cold air is able to move within the cavities. You either hope that your CWI is doing a good job of stopping it (though 'fluff' was not designed to stop air) or you seal any 'ins' at low level and cap the top.

    Will your windows be timber, uPVC or other? What I have in mind is that if window replacement comes earlier, you may realise they are in the wrong position once you EWI. There is a general consensus (I think) that it is best to 'hang the windows out' in a ply (or other - I think perhaps James Ingram on here used cement board - or I may be dreaminng that!)box. You could still do that, and do 'temporary' sealing, if the EWI was to come witin a couple of years of the windows. If your CWI is good enough to achieve the 'headline' U value of 0.55W/m2K then 150 gEPS EWI should get you around 0.16W/m2K. Not so bad. 200 would get you arpound 0.125W/m2K.


    Thank you! I figured with EWI and insulating all round and airtighting that we could perhaps manage with little heating requirement. I quite like infrared panels, we bought a cheap one to try it out.

    I watched a video of EWI install and it doesn’t look too bad, I have rendered and I’m not that keen to do it again.

    Haven’t selected windows yet, have had quotes for a-rated PVC which I think would be more normal for this house, U-values quoted as 1, so I thought that was ok considering the Green Building Store ones are not much less and possibly a lot more expensive, but maybe I should get a quote from them and from russell timbertech fostertom mentioned.
  28.  
    Posted By: philedge
    Posted By: GreenApprentice

    There is 2 years left on the guarantee but the company no longer exists so I am considering contacting CIGA if I collect enough evidence

    Likely youll only need one bit of evidence it wasn't done properly. We contacted them and a surveyor was out within a week or two. He knew exactly where there were likely gaps and had a schedule of remedial works done in an hour. All the remedial work was done in another couple of weeks so a pretty good response


    Oh wow! Pretty good to know. We’re removing the boiler this weekend so should see into the cavity where the flue was, will do pics. There’s slight mottled discolouring on the render just above the DPC (part of the house has original render, other parts are brick).
  29.  
    Posted By: DougmlancsAnd here’s the quote detail


    Thank you for posting
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2023
     
    Posted By: DougmlancsThe two outdoor units
    Note that only one outdoor unit can be permitted development. The second will require planning permission. A multi-split avoids that.

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