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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2019
     
    I am stripping the wallpaper with vinyl/acrylic paint finish from my lime plaster walls and scrubbing off the paste residue to leave a clean finish.

    The two bedrooms and bathroom suffer from condensation on the walls. I'm hoping with the 'plastic' paint finish removed the lime plaster walls will be able to buffer moisture enough to help remedy this problem (though I know the best solution is to make the walls warmer, but EWI or IWI is not currently on the cards).

    So two questions:

    1) Am I correct in my thinking? I suppose the result can't be any worse!

    2) I dislike wallpaper so my first thought was to paint directly on to the walls with clay paint which has some hygroscopic quality. I have some Auro 331. Then I revisited Simon James Lewis's Bristol Hemp & Lime website and he recommends using lining paper then clay paint. Obviously this means you could in the future take the wall back to the untreated lime finish, but is there any particular reason that I shouldn't paint directly on to the plaster with this type of paint? The wall would still be vapour permeable.

    Thanks.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2019
     
    It used to work when the house was built but it will have loads of draughts, open windows coal fires with high rates of air exchange.

    I suspect that you will unfortunately still get condensation and that the buffering will not be able to cope with the sheer amounts of moisture that we generate now, sorry. Likely ok in summer but not in the heating season.

    Please report back, I would love to be wrong
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2019
     
    We had a very bad condensation problem with a chapel wall. The chapel was built in the 1840's, so solid walls and very cold to the touch. Most of the year was ok but in winter the condensation was bad as there was no ventilation and about 100 folk breathing (very inconsiderate of them!) in a small space.

    The problem was cured using Thermilate additive in the emulsion paint. The theory behind it sounds quite rational, however we were very sceptical, but it worked! I see they now market it as Thermalmix but they now also do an anti-condensation paint which I presume contains the additive. It is quite expensive so the additive plus ordinary emulsion would be a more economical route.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2019
     
    It's been said here that 'ordinary' i.e. plastic-based emulsion is vapour permeable. Any confirmation/further info on that?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2019
     
    You can certainly use clay paint straight on to lime, and it should improve the humidity buffering. Wheter it eliminates condensation depends on a whole load of factors, as others have said.
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2019
     
    It looks like we have a few sub-zero nights coming up so it will be interesting to see how the now-uncoated lime plaster walls perform before I get a chance to paint them.

    Interestingly, this morning there was less condensation on the bedroom window than on previous nights, that's with two walls stripped clean. So many variables though.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2019
     
    Draughtiness which depends on windiness, wind direction and speed will most likely be the overriding factor unless you are very airtight ( below one)
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2019
     
    Airloose I'd say.

    Windows and doors OK, fireplaces now blocked up, but cold air doubtless coming up through floorboards and skirtings so insulation needed below floor. In stripping the wallpaper it's obvious the main condensation points on the walls are near the underfloor vents.

    Wood rot surveyor coming tomorrow so he can have a good look below the floor.

    PS: There is a vent in a corner of the living room floor, central to the building. Why would this be there?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2019
     
    Posted By: WeeBeastieThere is a vent in a corner of the living room floor, central to the building. Why would this be there?

    Is it near a fireplace or a gas fire, or where one was? It might be a fresh air supply for combustion.
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2019
     
    Ah yes, there is a blocked off fireplace. Looks quite modern so maybe there was a gas fire at one time, though it was an electric one when ! moved in.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2019
     
    WeeBeastie - did you take a look at the Thermilate product after? Worth considering! (Note: I have no connection with the firm. Just a user of the product which worked well in our application).
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeNov 12th 2019
     
    Jeff,

    I couldn't find any contents info other than 'nano technology'. and 'special resins'. I'm usually suspicious of new technology, though know I should be more open minded. I'd worry about the vapour permeability.

    It's useful to have your real-life experience of the product though.


    Under floor insulation is hopefully going on once the whole building plan is sorted (as I need to rewire, replumb), and then if budget permits I may consider EWI since it's a small bungalow. I'd rather insulate on the outside.
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