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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


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  1.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: paul.dixon27</cite> Iroko is what i've found to be the best, Oak is lovely but it can stain with wet iron,like knives and pots, and it's not quite as water friendly as iroko.

    any ideas on removing the black stain from oak work surfaces? i see oxalic acid is recommended for other woods but wouldn't it result in bleached out spots on the surface?

    not convinced about wood work surfaces near sinks, they all seem to blacken and crack and if you want a natural product then coating with resins and boat varnishes doesn't seem very compatible. in drier areas they are great though.
    • CommentAuthorJulian
    • CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
     
    Sealing some oak tops in the kitchen with tung oil. All was going well and I had 5-6 coats rubbed in. Then a spell of cooking (excessive humidity) and after the oil has gone matt and feels damp to the touch. Rubbed with a finger it rolls off easily. Is it best to try to dry it out and carry on?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
     
    Posted By: dan_the_man.
    any ideas on removing the black stain from oak work surfaces? i see oxalic acid is recommended for other woods but wouldn't it result in bleached out spots on the surface?

    not convinced about wood work surfaces near sinks, they all seem to blacken and crack and if you want a natural product then coating with resins and boat varnishes doesn't seem very compatible. in drier areas they are great though.


    Hi d_t_m,
    Exposure to iron compounds or ammonia causes Oak to blacken. You'll not shift it apart from sanding it out. I agree with you about sinks and water and wood, in general, they don't mix. All surface coating eventually degrade and once the water gets underneath you're in for a hiding. Keep the nice wood to drier areas of the kitchen, unless you like the shabby look.

    Hi Julian,
    Good to hear you're putting in some elbow grease, sounds like you're overdoing it a bit. Remember "a little bit and often.":bigsmile:

    Mike
  2.  
    Are you keeping cows and pigs now Contadino?
    • CommentAuthorludite
    • CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
     
    slightly off thread here, but with all the talk of wood not being good near water (saunas? airing cupboards? hot tubs?) (boats?) - have you seen the designer wooden baths that are out now?

    Does anyone have any experience of them or opinions of why anyone would want/need a bath made out of wood?
  3.  
    Ludite - don't throw your fat on the compost heap - not relly very good for them. Put it somewhere rodent proof to dry thoroughly then burn it - get something out of it that way.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
     
    Posted By: ludite; slightly off thread here, but with all the talk of wood not being good near water (saunas? airing cupboards? hot tubs?) (boats?) - have you seen the designer wooden baths that are out now?

    Does anyone have any experience of them or opinions of why anyone would want/need a bath made out of wood?

    You're not usually that worried if the sauna or hot tub isn't that visually perfect. As a worktop would try to be. As for airing cupboards I thought they were meant to be extra dry.
    Wooden baths, mmm, self-punishment perhaps.
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