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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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  1.  
    I'd like to use some metal cladding without having studs / screws / etc showing. I guess I'll need some kind of bracket, but I have no idea where to look. Would anybody have any leads?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeApr 27th 2017
     
    Cladding systems suppliers

    Basically a slot in the edge of the marble with stainless steel L or T clips located into them, min 50mm wide.

    What area are covering?
  2.  
    Thanks Tony! Do you mean at the edges of the metal? So the sheets need to be folded at the edges? Or how else are the clips joined to the metal?

    I'd say about 3m x 4.5m area.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeApr 27th 2017
     
    Try search "stone cladding system". On google images
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeApr 27th 2017
     
    Marble? Stone? I think COP's asking about metal cladding; first sentence of his first post seems to say so. Title should be “invisible metal-cladding brackets”, though; hyphens have meanings, too.
    • CommentAuthorMarkyP
    • CommentTimeApr 27th 2017
     
    zinc standing seam is a great cladding material with no visible fixings. I have my dormer roofs, cheeks and faces clad in it. Not sure it's a DIY job though.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 27th 2017
     
    Standing seam systems use proprietary clips hidden behind the standing seams, but as MarkyP says they're not really a DIY job although I think you can go on the installation courses with at least some suppliers. ComeOnPilgrim will have to tell us what effect he's looking for if it isn't standing seam.
  3.  
    Thanks @djh! I'm not looking for standing seam (I've installed that on the roof), but panels (cor-ten?) that are fabricated from sheets and attached somehow to the walls. I'd like to avoid screw holes etc. and just have the sheets, somehow invisibly attached.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 27th 2017
     
    If you don't want any visible fixings then I suspect you would need to weld or glue some brackets to the back of the panels. There are such systems apparently e.g. http://www.nes-solutions.co.uk/cladding/corten-cladding
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeApr 28th 2017 edited
     
  4.  
    @djh, yes, I think some kind of welding is inevitable. But what to weld and what bracket? I was thinking that just simple hooks of some kind might be sufficient, with gravity holding the panels in place.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 28th 2017
     
    Daryl and I have linked to two systems, so I'm not sure what you're asking for?
  5.  
    On the other hand, if it is really Invisible Metal Cladding do you even have to bother with brackets?
  6.  
    Hi @djh, I had a look at the two links and have asked for details, but they seemed to be whole proprietary systems including cladding. It was also difficult to see how the brackets worked. I was planning on getting the panels cut and fabricated myself as it's not a large area. It's just some kind of bracket or fixing I need. I'll see if those companies can assist when they respond.
  7.  
    I've found these. Only trouble is they need to be screwed or rivited to metal, which won't be invisible: http://button-fix.com
  8.  
    I also found this idea on another website: 'Finally got an answer that worked with the builders, architech, inspectors, fabricators......

    Double sided tape plus adhesive plus bend a lip at the top so theat the panels hang.I just tell people that we used sellotape to get a reaction.'
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMay 1st 2017
     
    I used some of those to mount my house's name plate. They work well. They're invisible as long as the fixing to the panel doesn't penetrate all the way through the material. Not really a problem with a wood panel but might be with a metal one. Again, welding or glueing are likely to be better methods of fixing, or folding the edges, and pre-engineered proprietary systems will be much the easiest to use.
  9.  
    Thanks @djh. It occurred to me that I might be able to wrap the metal over an OSB board or something, and then attach them to the board rather than the metal.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMay 1st 2017
     
    I don't understand your apparent reluctance to weld or glue. You seem to be looking at any (insert adjective of your choice) alternative to avoid one or the other.
  10.  
    Welding would probably work fine, but would it not leave a mark on the other side from the heat?

    I'll have a look at glue, but given that cor-ten is designed to rust, I'd worry that the bond would fail in time.
  11.  
    I spoke to button-fix today. The concern they have is about the thermal expansion of the metal. Their fixings are normally used internally where there is little change in temperature and hence little movement. For a large panel, there could be enough movement to put a lot of pressure on the fixings.
  12.  
    I have been offered a product called Sika-Tack. It seems to be a combination of tape (temporary while the glue dries) and a polyurethane glue. It is used for aluminium, but I'm checking if it's okay for cor-ten.
  13.  
    As an update, I have sent some cor-ten samples for testing for suitability. I'll keep you posted when I hear back.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMay 17th 2017
     
    According to: http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/82142/Fixing-Corten-Steel-Panels

    "Finally got an answer that worked with the builders, architech, inspectors, fabricators......

    "Double sided tape plus adhesive plus bend a lip at the tob so theat the panels hang.I just tell people that we used sellotape to get a reaction."

    I think getting a good bond with the primer will be very important. A lip at the top also sounds sensible but is not part of the Sika system.
    • CommentAuthorcaliwag
    • CommentTimeJul 5th 2017
     
    There used to be a company in Woolmer Green, Knebworth, Herts called Entech (Entech House). MD and Inventor Brian Bailey, who developed an invisible mechanical system called Rotolock. This was a form of Rainscreen cladding that was fixed to Al channels over a weatherproof layer. Al panels were fixed via a steel screw fixing and locked into place, a quarter turn cutting into the sides of the Al panel, leaving a 3-4mm slot for the spanner. You could try emailing Brian at en-rail technology ltd to see if he passed the patent onto another company. Brilliant yet simple system which we used on many railway station projects. Good luck...Jamie
  14.  
    Thanks @caliwag!

    In the meantime, our tests have come back extremely positively. Seems that corten works well with glue!
    • CommentAuthorTimarsha
    • CommentTimeOct 30th 2022
     
    Hi,



    Heard back from Sika, apparently the Sika Tack panel adhesive is not suitable for corten/ weathered steel. Anyone have any pointers?
  15.  
    I'd be wary of relying on glue alone for cladding panels if you can avoid it. Secret mechanical fix options are widespread,just a bit more expensive than face-fixed rivets.

    Plenty of rainscreen subframe systems that will work with a folded corten cladding panel. All variations on a similar idea.

    Here are some examples:

    https://uk.sfs.com/systems/nvelope/rainscreen-subframe-systems

    https://eltheringtonarchitectural.co.uk/news/new-rainscreen-cladding-system

    https://spanwall.com/products/rf50-fr
  16.  
    if the Corten is sanded first and you have a good surface area then the Sika glue or similar should be ok.
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