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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021 edited
     
    Hi all

    I've decided to try and use as much of the original hard wood floor as possible in my renovation. A lot of hard work I know but I'm not a huge fan of engineered wood or carpet. Beside the boards that had rotted, the floors are actually in pretty good condition with no finishings as far as I can tell. I don't want to strip them back to new, I want to maintain the history in there.

    This subject seems to get covered a hell of a lot by both professionals and DIY'ers on the internet. I was wondering if any forum members had restored their original floors and what did you use to finish them?

    My neighbour varnished her hard wood floors and it looks great but varnish isn't 'breathable' as I understand it? Perhaps not such an issue for the floors upstairs. Wax/oil is breathable but doesn't afford as much protection by all accounts with spillages, etc, and apparently is a bit of a faff to maintain.

    Cheers
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    I like waxoil, incredibly hard wearing, satin is nice as opposed to high gloss , streets ahead of varnish.

    Second choice is acrylic varnish.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    Posted By: tonyI like waxoil, incredibly hard wearing, satin is nice as opposed to high gloss , streets ahead of varnish.

    Second choice is acrylic varnish.


    Any particular brand of wax oil Tony?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    osmo but there are still lots of choices to make
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    Do they need sanding or have you already done that?
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    Posted By: owlmanDo they need sanding or have you already done that?


    No, I've not sanded yet. I'm not entirely sure how much sanding they would require, although on some of the rooms they have the black edging, but it's not pronounced or deep I might add.

    Why do you ask?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    I wasn't sure from your OP, and I don't like the idea of sealing in grime. What hardwood is it.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    Posted By: tonyosmo but there are still lots of choices to make


    And would you use screws to put them back down Tony or would you favour the original clasp nails?
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    Posted By: owlmanI wasn't sure from your OP, and I don't like the idea of sealing in grime. What hardwood is it.


    No worries, so would you take them right down?

    I'm pretty sure its Pine (late 1700's / early 1800's)
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 22nd 2021
     
    I would use nail gun ringshanks nice shaped hole grab tight and fast
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 23rd 2021 edited
     
    Posted By: kristeva
    Posted By: owlmanI wasn't sure from your OP, and I don't like the idea of sealing in grime. What hardwood is it.


    No worries, so would you take them right down?

    I'm pretty sure its Pine (late 1700's / early 1800's)


    Just for the record Paul Pine is a softwood, not hardwood, as your OP.
    I can understand you desire to reclaim and seal it to a nice finish, and softwood it can look nice. You didn't say if it's laid already, or stacked up loose somewhere ready to be re-fixed?
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeJan 23rd 2021
     
    Posted By: owlman
    Posted By: kristeva
    Posted By: owlmanI wasn't sure from your OP, and I don't like the idea of sealing in grime. What hardwood is it.


    No worries, so would you take them right down?

    I'm pretty sure its Pine (late 1700's / early 1800's)


    Just for the record Paul Pine is a softwood, not hardwood, as your OP.
    I can understand you desire to reclaim and seal it to a nice finish, and softwood it can look nice. You didn't say if it's laid already, or stacked up loose somewhere ready to be re-fixed?


    Ah ok. I assume its Pine, lol, I'm obviously no expert.

    Its mostly laid as it was originally with the exception of the boards that had to be raised for electrician, etc. I've become a little bit squeamish about raising the boards, seems like such an act of vandalism.

    Is the situation much different for softwood? I get your original point about sealing in dirt though, Its difficult to know how much to take off. I guess I'll hire a sander.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeJan 23rd 2021
     
    I've just read an article that said the black tar / stain around the edge of floors was for damp proofing purposes. I hadn't heard this before, I had read / presumed it was something to do with the fact that rugs were commonly used.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 23rd 2021
     
    Darkolene was fashionable to put round the edge of a floor before fitted carpet became the norm, after that it was stripped to reveal the original wood.

    Never heard talk about damp
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeJan 24th 2021
     
    Presume you must have gaps between the boards, you will have if you have CH unless they have been re-laid. I once re-laid a floor and in the width of 13ft got another board in due to the shrinkage. The dark stain would be from the time when carpets came in rectangles. I am not sure the softwood takes kindly to an oil finish I think after sanding use a sanding sealer followed by a wax polish finish such as Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Wax. As with anything you have not done before get some scrap wood and test out your technique and materials first as if you get it wrong you end up with a lot of work on your hands.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 24th 2021
     
    As revor has said Paul the main problem with standard softwood flooring even old stuff are the gaps that accumulate. If that is the case with yours, there are only three options really, accept them as they are, fill them, or lift the floor and re-lay it with tight joins.
    I know you said you like the flooring but this problem is why so many simply lay new stuff on top. As for finishing it's difficult to say without seeing the floor as even old softwood flooring differs in quality with some exceptional and others rubbish. Whatever you decide personally I'd sand it first. You could also consider dark staining it before applying a top finish, it can look very effective.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeJan 24th 2021
     
    Posted By: owlmanAs revor has said Paul the main problem with standard softwood flooring even old stuff are the gaps that accumulate. If that is the case with yours, there are only three options really, accept them as they are, fill them, or lift the floor and re-lay it with tight joins.
    I know you said you like the flooring but this problem is why so many simply lay new stuff on top. As for finishing it's difficult to say without seeing the floor as even old softwood flooring differs in quality with some exceptional and others rubbish. Whatever you decide personally I'd sand it first. You could also consider dark staining it before applying a top finish, it can look very effective.


    Yes, its all pretty tight to be fair, even with the boards that have been raised they fit back down pretty snug. They'll be a bit of work repairing dents, etc, though. But I doubt I've got many noticeable gaps. I might try mixing resin and sawdust to make a putty.

    I'll post some photos tomorrow.
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