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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2022 edited
     
    I am about to start installing IWI on the two external walls of our living room. There are three double 13amp sockets which need to be moved (plus TV aerial sockets). There will be 75mm of Celotex plus plasterboard so overall thickness approx 87mm. I intend to make a kind of extension box to house the new pattress (see attached photo of the prototype) and use WAGO connectors to extend the cables. The boxes will be secured to the wall using angle brackets.

    My question is: is it safe to mount the pattresses inside wooden boxes? I didn't think it would be a problem as I have seen, for example, pattresses mounted on wooden noggins before but my wife just raised the question and put doubts in my mind!
      Pattress box reduced.jpg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2022 edited
     
    I would use these https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-2-1-gang-dry-lining-knockout-box-35mm/60079

    And try to pull the wires so that they are long enough
    • CommentAuthorCliff Pope
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2022
     
    I don't see what difference it would make - wooden houses have electricity?
  1.  
    Posted By: tonyI would use thesehttps://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-2-1-gang-dry-lining-knockout-box-35mm/60079" rel="nofollow" >https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-2-1-gang-dry-lining-knockout-box-35mm/60079


    +1 for flanged plastic back boxes, much less work. Also you don't want all that steel and wood bridging your insulation layer.
    Put decent insulation behind them, and flexible airtight sealant around the faceplate.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2022
     
    Assuming your wifes concerns are the fire risk, AFAIK the vast majority of electrical fires in domestic wiring are at joints/connections. Adding connectors of any type adds to this risk, but that risk is likely quite low if the connection is done correctly. Assuming the cables come down the wall, cant you raise the sockets 50mm to gain enough length on the cable??
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2022
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenflexible airtight sealant around the faceplate
    Not much point unless the socket itself is also airtight! And a nuisance any time you want to remove the faceplate/socket whilst redecorating or whatever. If the plasterboard is the airtight surface then its usual to put an airtight box such as https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/instaabox.html in the hole before the back box is mounted.

    I agree about the plastic backboxes, but be aware that the quality varies.
  2.  
    Posted By: philedgeAFAIK the vast majority of electrical fires in domestic wiring are at joints/connections.

    +1
    But in all the years of electrical work I've only had one connection go wrong - a WAGO connector melted along with the wire insulation at the connector point. some smoke but no fire/flames and the circuit stopped working as the connection failed. Cable insulation and connectors are supposed to the self extinguishing - in this case I guess they were.

    Posted By: philedgeAssuming the cables come down the wall, cant you raise the sockets 50mm to gain enough length on the cable??

    and so avoid the need for a wire extension.

    Like lots of things - less joints = less risk
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2022 edited
     
    Thanks to all for your contributions. Lots of ideas to think on.

    Since my original post I have also thought about possibly using threaded bar and resin (e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-studs-bzp-m10-x-130mm-10-pack/3805f) to secure metal pattresses or as a last resort (and a simple solution actually) use surface mounted sockets but the wife is not keen on the latter though.

    Will try chiselling off the render above one socket to see if the idea of exposing more cable is do-able.
  3.  
    Jeff, the thermal conductivity of a steel rod is really high, 2500x more conducive than cellotex, so each 10mm dia rod is thermally equivalent to about 2 square feet of IWI - not what you want! As well as the heat loss, I'd be thinking about the cold spot causing condensation in the socket box.

    I'd really be looking at using the plastic boxes with a flange that are recessed into the plasterboard and clamp onto it, requiring no other fixings, they are designed just for this job, like Tony's link.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2022
     
    Posted By: Jeff Buse surface mounted sockets but the wife is not keen on the latter though.
    What's your wife's difficulty with these? We have a whole load and I doubt SWMBO is even aware we have!
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2022
     
    Posted By: djh
    Posted By: Jeff Buse surface mounted sockets but the wife is not keen on the latter though.
    What's your wife's difficulty with these? We have a whole load and I doubt SWMBO is even aware we have!


    I think normally she would not have thought strongly about this bar for a very recent, rather ill-timed and unfortunate event! We were away on holiday for a few days last week and after we checked into our hotel room we noticed that the bedside lights and the fridge were not working. I checked to see if the sockets were switched off and discovered that someone (presumably the cleaner) had pushed the bed against a surface mounted twin socket and had literally broken the thing in half!

    However all's well that ends well:

    I had a chat with a local electrician who I know quite well and trust his opinion.Coincidentally it appears that he has just done work at a house where the owner has done some IWI with Celotex. He said he refused to fit sockets within the insulation layer and insisted that the owner used surface mounted boxes attached to the plasterboard which was music to my ears! In addition I have since found a source of PVC surface mounted pattress boxes as opposed to the usual urea/formaldehyde (bakelite?) type and these are much more resilient. They cost about 2 to 3 times as much as the latter but have won the day!
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2022
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenJeff, the thermal conductivity of a steel rod is really high, 2500x more conducive than cellotex, so each 10mm dia rod is thermally equivalent to about 2 square feet of IWI - not what you want! As well as the heat loss, I'd be thinking about the cold spot causing condensation in the socket box.

    I'd really be looking at using the plastic boxes with a flange that are recessed into the plasterboard and clamp onto it, requiring no other fixings, they are designed just for this job, like Tony's link.


    Will - thanks for your comment. Please see my reply to djh!!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2022
     
    Posted By: Jeff Bdiscovered that someone (presumably the cleaner) had pushed the bed against a surface mounted twin socket and had literally broken the thing in half!
    Whoah! Not sure what would have happened with a [plug in a] socket mounted on a meatl backbox there?

    However all's well that ends well
    Glad to hear it :)
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2022
     
    Posted By: philedge: “Assuming the cables come down the wall, cant you raise the sockets 50mm to gain enough length on the cable??”

    Also, it's quite likely that current building regulations will call for the sockets to be higher than they currently are so they probably, at least in theory, ought to be raised as part of this work anyway. Haven't looked at the English regulations for a while but in Scotland they should be 400 mm above the floor: https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-2017-domestic/4-safety/48-danger-from-accidents/ section 4.8.5.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2022
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesPosted By: philedge: “Assuming the cables come down the wall, cant you raise the sockets 50mm to gain enough length on the cable??”

    Also, it's quite likely that current building regulations will call for the sockets to be higher than they currently are so they probably, at least in theory, ought to be raised as part of this work anyway. Haven't looked at the English regulations for a while but in Scotland they should be 400 mm above the floor:https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-2017-domestic/4-safety/48-danger-from-accidents/" rel="nofollow" >https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-2017-domestic/4-safety/48-danger-from-accidents/section 4.8.5.
    English regs require it for new builds, but not for refurbs I believe. They are definitely more convenient once you get used to them, although arguably slightly uglier with more trailing wire.
  4.  
    450mm in England - perhaps the people are 50mm taller down South?

    If there is a suspended ground floor then the cables might run upwards from it to the sockets, rather than downward from the ceiling, our last 3 houses were wired like that.

    Afaict it is very common for sockets to be recessed into insulated walls, so possibly different electricians would have different interpretations of the regulations. Perhaps the electrician was thinking about surface-mounting the cables? There is quite a significant derating factor applied to cables which run through insulation for more than a short distance.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeOct 2nd 2022
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeen450mm in England - perhaps the people are 50mm taller down South?

    If there is a suspended ground floor then the cables might run upwards from it to the sockets, rather than downward from the ceiling, our last 3 houses were wired like that.

    Afaict it is very common for sockets to be recessed into insulated walls, so possibly different electricians would have different interpretations of the regulations. Perhaps the electrician was thinking about surface-mounting the cables? There is quite a significant derating factor applied to cables which run through insulation for more than a short distance.


    Will - none of my cables will be actually buried in insulation. I am using WAGO connectors (never used them before - aren't they fantastic!) to provide "extensions" to reach the surface mounted pattress boxes via a hole cut in the insulation/plasterboard. I can seal where the cables enter the back of the boxes (and also the rear edges of the boxes) with intumescent mastic.

    I went off the idea of chiselling the walls to release more of the cables once we had made the decision to go for surface mounted boxes rather than flush ones. Our cables definitely come down the walls.
  5.  
    Sounds good! Yes, Wago connectors are great.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeen450mm in England - perhaps the people are 50mm taller down South?
    We're probably just less fit and find it harder to bend down :devil: :bigsmile:
    Thinking a little more, I think the regs are written for people in wheelchairs and I have a friend who can't pick up things from the floor or manipulate his own shoes etc. Hence also the upwards limit of 1200 mm.
  6.  
    Posted By: Jeff BI am using WAGO connectors (never used them before - aren't they fantastic!) to provide "extensions" to reach the surface mounted pattress boxes via a hole cut in the insulation/plasterboard. I can seal where the cables enter the back of the boxes

    just the old fashioned in me doesn't like joints hidden never to be seen again - and never mind what the regs. or the manufactures say.

    So I would chisel the wall and raise the sockets.

    But Wago connectors are v. good, I've only ever had one fail.

    IMO surface mounted sockets are more prone to damage than flush sockets. (bigger target!)
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2022
     
    You have to use the right sort of wagos if you are burying them in the wall (as you are in this case). They have to be in a sealed box, not just the connectors on wire. i.e WAGOBOX® 221-4, or WAGOBOX®, not just the bare 222 or 773 connector.

    I second all the advice to use plasterboard plastic backboxes, make sure it's vapourtight where the indent in the PUR is cut, avoid thermal bridging with metal or timber, and avoid connections if at all possible.
    I did all mine with the plastic backboxes so I have flush sockets. I rewired to avoid connections (and tired 1960s cable insulation). Cabling is hidden behind skirting boards so doesn't go into base masonry wall at all.

    http://wookware.org/pics/online/greenbldg/IWI-socket-taping.jpeg
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2022
     
    Posted By: wookeyYou have to use the right sort of wagos if you are burying them in the wall (as you are in this case). They have to be in a sealed box, not just the connectors on wire. i.e WAGOBOX® 221-4, or WAGOBOX®, not just the bare 222 or 773 connector.

    I second all the advice to use plasterboard plastic backboxes, make sure it's vapourtight where the indent in the PUR is cut, avoid thermal bridging with metal or timber, and avoid connections if at all possible.
    I did all mine with the plastic backboxes so I have flush sockets. I rewired to avoid connections (and tired 1960s cable insulation). Cabling is hidden behind skirting boards so doesn't go into base masonry wall at all.

    http://wookware.org/pics/online/greenbldg/IWI-socket-taping.jpeg" rel="nofollow" >http://wookware.org/pics/online/greenbldg/IWI-socket-taping.jpeg


    OK thanks for the tips. I'm still planning to use the idea of chiselling out the render on the wall in order to expose more cable and thus avoid the use of WAGO connectors all together.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2022
     
    Chiselling out of walls to allow extension of cables successful! Render was rather soft and therefore a straightforward job. Anyone need any WAGO connectors!?
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