Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
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Posted By: tonyI would use thesehttps://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-2-1-gang-dry-lining-knockout-box-35mm/60079" rel="nofollow" >https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-2-1-gang-dry-lining-knockout-box-35mm/60079
Posted By: WillInAberdeenflexible airtight sealant around the faceplateNot much point unless the socket itself is also airtight! And a nuisance any time you want to remove the faceplate/socket whilst redecorating or whatever. If the plasterboard is the airtight surface then its usual to put an airtight box such as https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/instaabox.html in the hole before the back box is mounted.
Posted By: philedgeAFAIK the vast majority of electrical fires in domestic wiring are at joints/connections.
Posted By: philedgeAssuming the cables come down the wall, cant you raise the sockets 50mm to gain enough length on the cable??
Posted By: Jeff Buse surface mounted sockets but the wife is not keen on the latter though.What's your wife's difficulty with these? We have a whole load and I doubt SWMBO is even aware we have!
Posted By: djhPosted By: Jeff Buse surface mounted sockets but the wife is not keen on the latter though.What's your wife's difficulty with these? We have a whole load and I doubt SWMBO is even aware we have!
Posted By: WillInAberdeenJeff, the thermal conductivity of a steel rod is really high, 2500x more conducive than cellotex, so each 10mm dia rod is thermally equivalent to about 2 square feet of IWI - not what you want! As well as the heat loss, I'd be thinking about the cold spot causing condensation in the socket box.
I'd really be looking at using the plastic boxes with a flange that are recessed into the plasterboard and clamp onto it, requiring no other fixings, they are designed just for this job, like Tony's link.
Posted By: Jeff Bdiscovered that someone (presumably the cleaner) had pushed the bed against a surface mounted twin socket and had literally broken the thing in half!Whoah! Not sure what would have happened with a [plug in a] socket mounted on a meatl backbox there?
However all's well that ends wellGlad to hear it :)
Posted By: Ed DaviesPosted By: philedge: “Assuming the cables come down the wall, cant you raise the sockets 50mm to gain enough length on the cable??”English regs require it for new builds, but not for refurbs I believe. They are definitely more convenient once you get used to them, although arguably slightly uglier with more trailing wire.
Also, it's quite likely that current building regulations will call for the sockets to be higher than they currently are so they probably, at least in theory, ought to be raised as part of this work anyway. Haven't looked at the English regulations for a while but in Scotland they should be 400 mm above the floor:https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-2017-domestic/4-safety/48-danger-from-accidents/" rel="nofollow" >https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-2017-domestic/4-safety/48-danger-from-accidents/section 4.8.5.
Posted By: WillInAberdeen450mm in England - perhaps the people are 50mm taller down South?
If there is a suspended ground floor then the cables might run upwards from it to the sockets, rather than downward from the ceiling, our last 3 houses were wired like that.
Afaict it is very common for sockets to be recessed into insulated walls, so possibly different electricians would have different interpretations of the regulations. Perhaps the electrician was thinking about surface-mounting the cables? There is quite a significant derating factor applied to cables which run through insulation for more than a short distance.
Thinking a little more, I think the regs are written for people in wheelchairs and I have a friend who can't pick up things from the floor or manipulate his own shoes etc. Hence also the upwards limit of 1200 mm.Posted By: WillInAberdeen450mm in England - perhaps the people are 50mm taller down South?We're probably just less fit and find it harder to bend down
Posted By: Jeff BI am using WAGO connectors (never used them before - aren't they fantastic!) to provide "extensions" to reach the surface mounted pattress boxes via a hole cut in the insulation/plasterboard. I can seal where the cables enter the back of the boxes
Posted By: wookeyYou have to use the right sort of wagos if you are burying them in the wall (as you are in this case). They have to be in a sealed box, not just the connectors on wire. i.e WAGOBOX® 221-4, or WAGOBOX®, not just the bare 222 or 773 connector.
I second all the advice to use plasterboard plastic backboxes, make sure it's vapourtight where the indent in the PUR is cut, avoid thermal bridging with metal or timber, and avoid connections if at all possible.
I did all mine with the plastic backboxes so I have flush sockets. I rewired to avoid connections (and tired 1960s cable insulation). Cabling is hidden behind skirting boards so doesn't go into base masonry wall at all.
http://wookware.org/pics/online/greenbldg/IWI-socket-taping.jpeg" rel="nofollow" >http://wookware.org/pics/online/greenbldg/IWI-socket-taping.jpeg
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