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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    Hi all,

    This is a very useful site, I've been reading it and getting ideas for some time, but I think it's time to ask directly for some assistance.

    We're building a new timber frame house of about 150 sq m, it will be insulated to well above current requirements. We originally wanted ground source with underfloor heating but have been worried by conflicting advice given to us, and also think we'd have trouble installing it on our land which has quite a few trees, as well as being solid chalk a couple of feet down.

    Air source was tempting for a short while but I don't like the noise factor, the large outside unit, the way it stops working if the temperature ever gets really cold.

    My plan was then to install the underfloor but not connect it yet (maybe wait for air source heating to improve?). We'd have a couple of wood burning stoves, one with a back boiler to provide DHW, backed up by off peak immersion heater.

    I then read about pellet stoves with back boilers and we're wondering whether this would be a better option. However we don't know anyone with pellet boilers/stoves and are concerned that it may be expensive to run, inflexible and also expensive to install. And who knows whether we'd even need it - in a well insulated house would the 2 stoves be sufficient?

    Would this option work with underfloor heating? If so would we need a thermal store or something??

    Trying to get information on these things is really difficult; it seems like we'd be pioneers if we used this technology. Or possibly idiots.

    Any help, input etc would be most welcome from you experts out there.

    Thanks,
    John
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 7th 2007
     
    Why timber frame? Why not insulate well enough so that you dont need any heating system >> no capital cost & no bills to pay.

    gshp will be ok on your site. Chalk is great. You could make your own lime!! and build solid. ashp will work all year round (it cant stop working)

    Pellet stoves are young yet and I suspect that they may not be so great. A thermal store would be a good idea if you must go the heating route.
  2.  
    Hi Tony

    Thanks for the reply. Why timber frame? Why not?? That's what the architect designed, and I understand it's easier to get higher insulation with timber frame. Our choices were very limited by planning restrictions in the village we're building in.

    GSHP might be ok but there is not enough room for 2 x 30 or 40 metre trenches 5 metres apart as the land has lots of trees which we don't want to remove. We can't afford a borehole. And also I don't see how chalk could be great for GSHP. Clay, maybe.

    ASHP stops working (as I understand it), depending on model, at temps of -5 to -17 degrees - which is when you'd really need it. Plus it has a whacking great fan which despite the manufacters claims has to make noise, and which is exposed to the elements. I love the claimed efficiencies of these technologies but am not reassured by the answers that I've been given by suppliers, some of who I suspect were selling double glazing a few months ago.

    That's why we're looking at stoves, and latterly pellet stoves.

    Cheers
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeSep 7th 2007
     
    HOw well insulated is your house going to be, do you know the peak heating load you require?
    What are the target u values.
    Are you on the gas grid?

    GSHP may be very good for a well insulated house but the capital cost will be high.

    If you spend extra on the insulation you may be able get away with just a couple of pellet or woodburning stoves.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 7th 2007
     
    or no heating at all John, where do you live? chalk and - 5 to -17 dont go together.

    Why not timber frame. It is too responsive thermally ( gets cold at night ) and too hot in summer.

    Solid masonry will respond much more slowly ( be much more comfortable to live in) is able to store free solar gain, has a solid feel,

    Either can be insulated just as well. Plenty of discussion on this subject on here -- there are two camps I m in the heavyweight one though the first house I built was timber frame I now hate it and would not live in one.
  3.  
    Hi Nigel

    The house is insulated beyond the UK building regs requirements; we do have a large area of glass at one end that will obviously lose some heat. The estimated heating requirement is 10kW, and we'd planned to install an 8kW stove that would be used a lot in winter plus a 5kW that would be used occasionally.

    I don't know what the target u values are, it's probably all there in the SAP calcs but I can only see component U-values. These are as follows:

    Average/maximum U-values:

    Walls: 0.21/0.21 OK; Floors: 0.23/0.28 OK
    Roofs: 0.16/0.16 OK; Openings: 1.80/2.00 OK

    We are not on the gas grid, and don't want to use oil or LPG. Hence the dilemma!

    Cheers,
    John
  4.  
    Hi again Tony,

    Thanks for all your time, by the way, it's very good to know there are people out there prepared to share their knowledge with the rest of us.

    It's way too late to discuss the relative merits of timber frame vs. masonry as the build has started and we're waiting for our carpenter to be able to start (and hoping he actually will, one day). However the SAP calcs came back very positive, as I understand it, and we're going to spend a fortune on Celatex (I know, for all you dedicated greenies out there, that we should be using sheep wool or recycled underwear, but nothing comes close to price/performance to Celatex). So we assume all will be well. After all houses have been built that way for hundreds of years.

    I also know that temperatures in rural Berkshire rarely go down to -5 let alone -17 but it seems daft to install something that's not going to work if/when it does get that cold.

    So I'm hopeful that we don't actually need anything other than the stoves, but as I am basing this hope on no real knowledge at all I feel that we should have a standby option in case it's too cold and the wife runs off back to her mother leaving me huddled in front of a wood burning stove...

    That's why I want to install the underfloor pipes even if we don't connect it up. But that raises questions in itself! Phew.

    John
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 8th 2007
     
    OK then once the timber frame is up and before any cladding or insulating happens decide where your air tightness barrier is going to be and start inspecting everything to do with it. Decide on any holes through it: services, fan ducts, wires or pipes if possible all of them and any for future use to keep your options open and fit these carefully.

    Once the sheathing is on check it over and fill/seal any holes or damages or missing bits cracks and gaps too, then fit the breather layer and seal all the joins. Inspect the insulation before it is covered up and the vapour layer for damages, no holes, must have shrouds round all wires or pipes, and it must be hermetically joined to the ones in adjoining walls, floors, ceiling, windows etc. Make sure it is continuous through the floor void too ( I bet they dont care about that cos they ain't done it before)

    You are going to be busy. I would take photos of it all.
  5.  
    Thanks, yes we are taking photos. As I have said the house is to be insulated well beyond the current stipulations of the building regs, we're not worried about insulation. Our concern is heating and DHW.

    Does anyone have any information or experience of pellet stoves/boiler combinations, especially with underfloor heating as per my original question?

    Cheers
    John
    • CommentAuthorsipman
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2007
     
    John

    We manufacture and erect SIP houses and our clients often go through the same process you are struggling with and in some respects you do have to be a pioneer

    From my experience with insulated and airtight Buildings (SIPs U value 0.2 and air leakage approx 3 m3/hr/m2 when tested), you will only have minimal heating requirments

    Once the building is warm the heat will not escape and with SIP buildings MVHR is recomended which I would advise you to consider, so you can recycle the heat.

    The evidence we have from clients living in completed projects is that they may only use the heating for a minumal period of time each day during the winter.

    The most common option taken is underfloor heating to the ground floor only, with perhaps a woodburning stove (usually more as a feature or to provide instant heat), Solar Thermal appear the most popular option for Hot Water.

    So my advice would be stoves or underfloor not both save your money

    Regarding air source heat pumps my knowlege is limited, but we are due to erect four houses for a developer on the pennines above Halifax (can get cold).The developer in question has done alot of research (houses' are to be sold on the open market) and has opted to use an Air source heat pump for heating and hot water, that he has sourced from Heatking tel 01484 405 605.

    reference Pellet stoves one SIPs supplier offers them with all the houses they supply information available from www.ellerslee.com

    hope this helps
  6.  
    Hi Sipman,

    Many thanks for your informative reply, it's exactly the sort of information we need to help us (try to) make the right decision. I'm not sure we can factor in MVHR but it is something to bear in mind, and would certainly move the heat around the building. I'm concerned we might be nice and snug downstairs but cold upstairs.

    Solar is something we want but I can foresee another giant struggle with our lovable local council to try to get permission (AONB, conservation area etc though they would be out of sight). We intend to build the house ready for solar to be fitted at a later stage though.

    It's really useful to hear about your experiences and gives me much more confidence that we'll actually be OK. Do you, however, think we'd be OK with our stoves without a heat distribution/recovery system sort of thing, or could we end up with that cold bedroom scenario?

    Thanks again,
    John
    •  
      CommentAuthorIain
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2007
     
    John,

    While I warmly welcome your selection of technologies from which to pick a solution I wonder if your dilemma over the sustainable solution and comfort have left you in a quandry?

    It seems to me that you're current thinking has left you with two scenario's:

    1) Go for the pellet/stove option which could mean cold spots towards the windows/doors, and possibly upstairs.
    2) Go for the GSHP option and have possible difficulties installing the system.

    My gut reaction is that the GSHP option will prove more comfortable, less hassle and more expensive initially. The Wood burning stove option should be cheaper initially but be more hassle and possibly with poorer comfort levels.

    Of course I've made some absurd generalisations above but whichever solution you choose give it your full commitment and I'm sure you'll get a good system.
    • CommentAuthorJohn Clark
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007
     
    Hi Iain

    Thanks for this, yes I think I agree; we're in a bit of a dilemma. However the choice to me, as I see it today at least, is either air source or pellet stove/boiler. Either of these should allow the underfloor heating to work and supply DHW but I'm leaning towards the pellet stove as it is probably more straightforward as it doesn't require extra heating to the water supply.

    As you can tell I am committed to selecting the right system for us and if it doesn't work properly it certainly won't be for the lack of research and effort.

    John
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