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Housing - Renovation: How to detail soakers and flashing where a roof extends beyond the abutment wall (at lowest point)?

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  1.  
  1.  
    Hi all

    I'm going to be stripping slates and putting in new lead soakers with a flashing next week. It's a stone wall, so the flashing will be a straight diagonal line, parallel to the top of the roof.

    At the bottom, the roof extends beyond the wall by a few inches. What's the normal way to detail that? I've had a look online but not been able to find anything....

    Many thanks
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 3rd 2023
     
    Look up apron flashing around a chimney, it may give you a steer in the right direction.
  3.  
    Thanks for the reply. The difference with a chimney is that the roof is in front of/below the chimney. IE it wraps around the chimney. Not so in my case.... The roof is just longer than the wall and so extends beyond it.

    I'll see about getting some photos.

    Ta
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 3rd 2023
     
    I used to carry the cover flashing on down the edge of the the gutter, starting at the height of the cut and finishing 15mm above the slates folding the excess over and cutting flush with the underside of the slates. This sends all water into the gutter
  5.  
    I think I follow you tony, but not totally sure. Is it ok for the cover flashing to stand vertically and freely with no wall behind it?

    Maybe I didn't explain things clearly. So I've got some photos in case my description made no sense! Ignore the plastic, turned up lead, hessian, etc. Hopefully can still get an idea of what's going on even with that cr@p in the way!

    Cheers
  6.  
    ...
      IMG_20230903_085131974_HDR small.jpg
    • CommentAuthorgreenfinger
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2023 edited
     
    ...
      IMG_20230903_084913609 Small.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2023
     
    That looks like a crude extg version of Tony's suggested freestanding upstand!
  9.  
    Yes just carry everything on a bit further, but without the wall behind it. When you do it you will find some logical way to finally trim or fold it so it looks neat.
    I have done something similar at the sides of my rooflights. I'll try and find a picture.
  10.  
    clay tiles in our case, not slates, but may be of use?
      Lead soakers.jpg
  11.  
    sorry picture has ended up quite pixellated / poorer quality
    we have a much more similar bit where the single storey kitchen roof joins the main building, but I don't have a very good picture of it.
      abutment flashing.jpg
  12.  
    That's really helpful, thank you.

    What about the section below the slates, marked in red on the photo?  Would you get the relevant uPVC piece and fit to cover?  Or use some lead to cover?  

    Ta
      IMG_20230903_084913609 Small marked lower section.jpg
  13.  
    I would use lead as you would have a load of it in your hands at that moment. Plus I don’t like plastic on the outside of buildings (on that barn it’s only the eaves carriers that are plastic)
  14.  
    Great, thank you very much.


    So does this sound like a plan?... Have a full soaker beneath the eaves slate, down passed the wall into the gutter. But I was thinking to fold the upstand over so that it is thicker for extra strength (seeing as there will be no wall behind it). Presuming 35mm or so height upstand once folded should be plenty?

    The flashing I was planning to wrap round the corner to stop ant water getting behind it. Presumably because the lead has come down the diagonal wall, when I wrap it round t will have to continue to be diagonal down that wall too. Would you then cover that with another small bit of straight/horizontal lead so it's in keeping? And if so, would you chase that bit in?

    As for the sections marked in red, I think using lead makes sense. But any tips on how to do that please? Would you do it almost like a soaker in reverse, and run an upside down L shape with lead under the eaves slate and then dressed to cover the small verge? That's just me thinking allowed though, so open to all suggestions!

    Thanks again
  15.  
    Posted By: Dominic Cooneysorry picture has ended up quite pixellated / poorer quality
    we have a much more similar bit where the single storey kitchen roof joins the main building, but I don't have a very good picture of it.
      http:///newforum/extensions/InlineImages/image.php?AttachmentID=8628" alt="abutment flashing.jpg" >

    In the 4th picture what seals the flashing to the wall, is it cut in or is there some sort of sealant between wall and flashing (if so what?)
  16.  
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryIn the 4th picture what seals the flashing to the wall, is it cut in or is there some sort of sealant between wall and flashing (if so what?)


    Hi Peter, it's cut into a slot in the stone made with a disc cutter (I didn't do as neat a job of that on this side as I did on the other) then pinned in place with small bits of folded lead carefully hammered in with a chisel, then sealed with "Lead Mate."
  17.  
    hopefully clearer image
      flashing to gutter.jpg
  18.  
    and the rear of it
      flashing rear.jpg
  19.  
    You can see the last soaker under the eaves tile, then I have rolled the flashing over to give it some strength and snipped the end off neatly. Squirted a bit of Lead Mate behind as well in any gaps.

    You can also see the plastic eaves carrier/protecter going into the gutter, these are sold for repairs to felted roofs but I think they are useful for this purpose even on re-done roofing.
  20.  
    That's excellent and looks great. Very nicely done :) And thank you so much for taking the time to photo and upload.

    If I follow your example, I'll still have the short amount of verge beneath to deal with (the red marked bits in the photos). In the photo with the white wall and apron flashing, I think I'll stick with my idea of using lead to cover as described above. In the other photo, I think the simplest and neatest solution will be to get some uPVC fascia/bargeboard and make it larger to meet the wall cover the bit currently stuffed with plastic. If doing that, what would I need to ask for at the builders merch? Would I need a full length of bargeboard?

    Thanks again :)


    PS - off topic - but what are those gutters? They look nice.
  21.  
    Thanks, the gutters are Lindab "Magestic" (galvanised steel)

    I can't help with the uPVC I've never bought any - never had a place with uPVC soffits or barge boards!
    It's a shame you can't just come across a spare bit in a skip.
  22.  
    I'd say it depends a bit how windy the location is ... if it's windy then ideally the gutter should continue on a bit beyond where the vertical wall starts, to catch rain that will blow diagonally off the edge of the slates.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2023
     
    Ideally when done no holes left for birds, bats or bumblebees
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2023
     
    Posted By: tonyIdeally when done no holes left for birds, bats or bumblebees
    Don't forget squirrels! :devil:
  25.  
    The gap for the bats is in the mortar of one of the ridge tiles on the main roof.
    Always make space for nature somewhere - this is the Green Building Forum after all!
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2023 edited
     
    "pinned in place with small bits of folded lead carefully hammered in"

    There are spring clips now available for such a task - Google "lead flashing clips"
  27.  
    At extra cost - I already had the lead offcuts!
  28.  
    Posted By: Dominic CooneyThe gap for the bats is in the mortar of one of the ridge tiles on the main roof.
    Always make space for nature somewhere - this is the Green Building Forum after all!
    Bravo! We have a gap for bats in the eaves above a bay window with an armchair, it's magic to sit there and watch them setting out in the evenings for their night's work! Also welcoming for bees/wasps, hibernating butterflies, nesting bluetits, who all stay in the gap between the slates and the felt or soffit and don't enter the roof space. Love/hate with mice who chew my insulation but sustain the owls.

    Would probably draw the line at grey squirrels. One of these will keep them out.
    https://www.leadworx.com/shop/lead-roof-vents/bat-access-vent/

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