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Housing - Renovation: How to apply draught proofing tape

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    • CommentAuthorGarethC
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2022
     
    Good morning all,

    Bit of a trivial one, but hope someone might have some thoughts.

    I install a form of secondary glazing I've developed, most commonly in old, single glazed period windows (especially sash and case).

    My product doesn't by itself reduce leaks around ill-fitting sashes though. My solution to that is simply to apply some draught-proofing tape. Most commonly I use the translucent kind which has adhesive across half of it's width, and which you attach so that it forms a lip across leaky areas.

    It can work surprisingly well, last for a surprisingly long time and you don't generally notice it when it's installed. It's amazing how often I find myself installing it on windows which have already been draught-proofed with brush strips.

    I don't charge anything extra for it, because the materials are very cheap, it doesn't take very long and it's not going to last for decades (and I'd feel like I was only doing half a job if I didn't do it frankly).

    The only problem is that sometimes it doesn't last long at all. Sometimes this is because we get a duff batch of tape (which I'm pretty sure does NOT have the promised 3M adhesive). At other times the frames can be damp (not uncommon with single glazed windows) or otherwise in poor condition (flaky paint and uneven surfaces).

    My usual MO is to give the frames a quick sanding where I'm going to apply the tape. Then I give it a good clean with alcohol spray. If they're damp, I also give the frames a blast with a hairdryer (although often the frames are a bit saturated, so this doesn't seem to work all that well).

    I'm just wondering if there's anything else I can do to increase the chances of the tape lasting longer. Perhaps applying a very quick drying primer? Or perhaps a dod of clear silicone at either end of the tape (where it's most likely to come away)?

    Greatly appreciate any tips. Thanks!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2022
     
    Posted By: GarethCMy usual MO is to give the frames a quick sanding where I'm going to apply the tape. Then I give it a good clean with alcohol spray. If they're damp, I also give the frames a blast with a hairdryer (although often the frames are a bit saturated, so this doesn't seem to work all that well).
    Those are the things I was going to suggest. It might be worth making notes of the condition of each window and what you did, so that later you might spot some pattern in features that make the seals fail?

    One other suggestion: the airtightness tape manufacturers make primers that can be painted on to surfaces to improve adhesion. Typically onto surfaces like concrete but it might be worth a try on the windows, after a thorough cleaning.
  3.  
    super gluing it at key points ??
    • CommentAuthorGarethC
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2022
     
    Posted By: djhOne other suggestion: the airtightness tape manufacturers make primers that can be painted on to surfaces to improve adhesion. Typically onto surfaces like concrete but it might be worth a try on the windows, after a thorough cleaning.



    Ooh interesting. Might try this stuff. Apparently works on even slightly damp surfaces, which could be useful, as I think the killer for the draught proof tape is often residual dampness in the timber frame https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/tescon-sprimer

    Per your other point, it's a good shout, as the conditions can vary quite significantly (flaky paint, or damp, or even slightly rotten etc.)

    Posted By: jamesingramsuper gluing it at key points ??


    I might try that at the end points instead of silicone, but I would have assumed super glue too 'fussy' for this purpose?

    Thanks for the thoughts both I appreciate it. Another limiting factor for this quick approach is that the adhesive strip can actually come away from the clear silicone strip fairly easily. Still, it can be effective, and my customers don't want to go the whole (expensive) hog of fitting brush strips etc.

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