Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.
Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
 Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




Housing - New Build: hebden passive thread

Bottom of Page

1 to 30 of 92

  1. <
  2. 1
  3. 2
  4. 3
  5. 4
  6. >
  1.  
    So I found some land that I want to build a house on but before I make a offer on it. I need some kind of idiea what I want to build so I can contact the local planning to see if they will approve it. The site has a bad history for planing, mainly people trying to build loafs of houses on it. So I know what sort of lay out I want but I not sure what's best out of timber frame or block walls? I know timber wins the eco side but I want to be as hands on and save myself as much money as I can. I am a sparky so not short of contacts or exprance of building sites.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2014
     
    Nothing to stop you making your own timber frame. At least you will know the consequences of drilling though your own walls :wink:
  3.  
    Well I was thinking if I went the timber frame root I would build my own and use the twin wall with earth wool between seems a very good way of keeping cold brigeing down.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2014
     
    Also easy enough to make a jig up so that every one is true and the same size. Timber frame panels don't seem to be any more than a shallow box that is filed with insulation.
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2014 edited
     
    HI,
    Be interested to hear your costings for self build , stick build. certainly easy to DIY and fun
    I like 150mm block with 200 EPS EWI
    Done a couple of single storey extension with this method and pretty much cost the same a brick(block)/100mm cavity/block to standard building regs.
    I'm presuming something bigger might work out cheaper ?? Also just seems very simple to me , no interstitial condensation to worry about, relatively straight forward airtightness detailing using wet plaster internally.
    I certainly think it's got potential to be a cheap way to a highly insulated house that can be built with existing trade knowledge without stretching attention to detail skills of the available work force too far.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2014
     
    My plan is to use engineered timber (OSB/softwood I-beams and glulam) in the key places to make DIY timber construction as simple as possible. More expensive per m³ than standard timber, of course, but you can also use a bit less of it to partially compensate.
  7.  
    Not a massive fan of I beams worked in loads of houses using them and if not used right they dont half make the floor bounce. I like the look of eco beams even tho more costly but would save me massive amount of time.
  8.  
    FWIW we used engineered floor (and roof) trusses. They're not expensive, stiffer than I beams and have plenty of space for routing cables / ducts / pipes through them. Of course they have to be made-to-measure, so I'm not sure how many places there are in the UK that do that. Over here, stick building is the standard so there's lots of availability. Stick building is also to DIY (if you know what you're doing).

    Paul in Montreal.
  9.  
    trusses etc. pretty easy to get made up .
    Eco beam , do you mean the one with metal strutting between 2 sections of timber .
    used them on one jobs , floor flexed a bit to much for my liking .
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2014
     
    Posted By: hebden-passive-houseNot a massive fan of I beams worked in loads of houses using them and if not used right they dont half make the floor bounce.


    how do you mean "if not used right" I wanted to use I beams but would like more info/opinions.
  11.  
    Posted By: hebden-passive-houseWell I was thinking if I went the timber frame root I would build my own and use the twin wall with earth wool between seems a very good way of keeping cold brigeing down.


    In which case, do you have lots of time to build it and get it waterproof in a reasonable timeframe onsite?

    Or do you have a barn to use to build a kit which you can assemble onsite?

    If the answer to the above is no then I would forget timber frame, no problem leaving blocks out and doing a bit here and there but no flexibility with timber. If you leave it out it becomes and expensive mess.
  12.  
    Posted By: willie.macleod
    Posted By: hebden-passive-houseWell I was thinking if I went the timber frame root I would build my own and use the twin wall with earth wool between seems a very good way of keeping cold brigeing down.




    Or do you have a barn to use to build a kit which you can assemble onsite?



    It doesnt need to be a barn. I have been on projects that used large metal framed poly tunnels bought second hand from farmers. 5-6 meters wide, 2.5 meters tall covered with thick plastic sheeting.

    there could be issues with site security.
  13.  
    I have a storage unit in Huddersfield about 30 from site but if I was to do timber frame I would look at getting some sort of storage on site to make it in.
  14.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: joe90</cite><blockquote>

    how do you mean "if not used right" I wanted to use I beams but would like more info/opinions.</blockquote>

    The builder got the centres of them Wong and the floor flexed alot. You could hear stuff rocking on the finding room table like forks and knifes. Also if its a long span you have to put them very close. Last job I did they where only 180mm at one point ( not fun trying to get spot lights in between them)

    By eco beams I do mean the ones with metal braceing. If I do use them I guess its a good idea to get them over spec to reduce the risk of flex.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2014
     
    Properly engineer-designed (e.g. by the suppliers) they shd give exactly the degree of flex permitted by structural code - or stiffer if you specify that. If it's 'engineered', then let it be engineered, otherwise it's just an expensive way of doing rule-of-thumb.
  16.  
    In my experience planners are only interested in what it looks like, not how it's constructed. My build is a portal I-beam frame with metal web joists on first floor.
  17.  
    Well if I go the timber framed root I want to clad it in wood to blend it into the surrounding woods. If I go block work I Would like it rendered but I have a feeling planning won't like that.
    • CommentAuthorbarney
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2014
     
    You can timber clad the blockwork (or part clad and part render)

    Personally I'd be going blockwork with 300mm cavity fully filled with EPS beads and a (very) warm roof sprung from the inner wall plate

    Suspended beam and block ground floor with a big LECA filled void below. Engineered joists and perhaps a bit of steel for the first floor (depending on GF internal layout)

    Blocks (and brickies) are cheap, fast and not sensitive to weather.

    Regards

    Barney
  19.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: barney</cite>You can timber clad the blockwork (or part clad and part render)

    Personally I'd be going blockwork with 300mm cavity fully filled with EPS beads and a (very) warm roof sprung from the inner wall plate

    Suspended beam and block ground floor with a big LECA filled void below. Engineered joists and perhaps a bit of steel for the first floor (depending on GF internal layout)

    Blocks (and brickies) are cheap, fast and not sensitive to weather.

    Regards

    Barney</blockquote>

    How do you avoid cold brigeing with the foundations if your useding block and beam ?
  20.  
    Posted By: hebden-passive-houseHow do you avoid cold brigeing with the foundations if your useding block and beam ?


    Start by looking at http://www.viking-house.ie/passive-house-foundations.html
  21.  
    Id be interested if any one has any ideas or info on how one builds a block and beam floor to passive house standards.

    I have a passive house build project on a bit of land that is subject to expansion and contraction of the clay sub soil. The traditional remedy prescribed in this part of the world is to sink micro piles to bearing depth, in this case 9 meters. and then build a block beam slab on top of the micro piles leaving a 20cm gap underneath the slab for the ground to move.

    Im wondering what is the passive house solution for ground that is a subsidence risk? anyone know?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2014
     
    Posted By: bot de pailleI have a passive house build project on a bit of land that is subject to expansion and contraction of the clay sub soil. The traditional remedy prescribed in this part of the world is to sink micro piles to bearing depth, in this case 9 meters. and then build a block beam slab on top of the micro piles leaving a 20cm gap underneath the slab for the ground to move.

    Im wondering what is the passive house solution for ground that is a subsidence risk? anyone know?

    Well, we're on clay aggravated by trees. We went for a passive slab, on top of a big hole full of hardcore (1.2 m deep). I looked at micro piles but they were going to be more expensive, but perhaps prices are different where you are. Or maybe your clay is too soft to make a hole economical.
  23.  
    I seen Viking house web site just wanted to know how Barney had a block and beam floor with out having a cold bridge down throw the wall into the foundations. Unless he did like they did at denby dale and used thermolite blocks
    • CommentAuthordickster
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2014
     
    Our small I beam house, floor (mostly), walls and roof all done in I beams. Fantastically rigid, but expensive (used local builder) with learning curve costs. He was sceptical, then accepting, then extremely enthusiastic, as are we.

    2 years on, the house is performing extremely well both structurally and thermally.

    It's a pleasure to live in.
  25.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: dickster</cite>Our small I beam house, floor (mostly), walls and roof all done in I beams. Fantastically rigid, but expensive (used local builder) with learning curve costs. He was sceptical, then accepting, then extremely enthusiastic, as are we.

    2 years on, the house is performing extremely well both structurally and thermally.

    It's a pleasure to live in.</blockquote>

    What was the cross section of your wall?
    • CommentAuthordickster
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2014
     
    300mm filled with recycled newspaper, inner and outer skin hardboard, with plasterboard internal, sweet chestnut external. Very much like a twin hulled boat or aircraft construction, hence its rigidity.
    • CommentAuthorbarney
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2014
     
    The beam and block doesn't contact the outside walls (which are filled with EPS beads remember)

    It sits on pads, with lateral beams, which supports the floor beams - all within a LECA filled void.

    So the bridging paths are relatively minimal but lose heat by conduction to the sub slab and the ground - Low density aircrete or thermalite blocks basically.

    What I didn't mention was the below floor "tank" is bounded by celotex, the void being filled with LECA

    Personally, I don't have too much concern regarding downward looking heat paths, what goes into the ground quite often reappears back in the house anyway

    Regards

    Barney
    • CommentAuthordaserra
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2014
     
    At the perimieter I believe they are more significant. I built my inner leaf on top of a course of AAC painted with Sikalastic.
    • CommentAuthorbarney
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2014
     
    At the perimeter, it's still bounded by 300mm EPS bead in the cavity ?

    Regards

    Barney
  30.  
    Just looking at leca specs and it got a very good u value. Never seen it before has it ever been used as wall or roof insulation ?

1 to 30 of 92

  1. <
  2. 1
  3. 2
  4. 3
  5. 4
  6. >
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press