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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Yes,Julian, hemcrete sounds to be a good answer to insulation of olde stone walls. Did costs work out to be £35/sqare metre, Jem, at 200mm deep as your first post stated?
  2.  
    To be honest we've not worked out the costs exactly, as we still have one wall to complete, but my gut feeling is my original estimates etc are about right.

    Its drying out nicely now the weather is getting a bit warmer, though its still obvious (visually) which bits we did at which stage, the curing process is quite steady and although the surface is nice and dry I suspect the core is still quite wet.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeApr 3rd 2010
     
    I'm starting to come around to the idea of using this for my cottage renovation, on the inside as you have done Jem. 150mm maybe. As well as for the extension.

    Are you still just using a normal cement mixer for it?
    Are you noticing any thermal improvement on the room you've done?

    I was reading the limetechnology info which strongly advises using a large pan concrete mixer (which are pretty rare and expensive things), and thought up a harebrained scheme of mixing the lime and water in the mixer, then pouring it into a big wooden trough, throwing the bale into that and mashing it up with an electric garden cultivator. It might be as well if I don't get a chance to try that.

    One last question, how available are the materials? LT haven't answered my email yet and I'm a bit nervous that there will be a delay until the next harvest/production, and by then the drying weather will have passed.
  3.  
    mixing in a normal mini-mixer is fine, and LT will give you the proportions you need in bucketfulls, for the various "grades" - its just a matter of honing the technique. I suspect that the exact method will be mixer-dependent, but this is how we did it:
    Add the hemp shiv to the mixer - we used 3 buckets of shiv, as 4 was a bit much for our mixer, then the correct amount of binder (depends on the "mix" - we used two different mixes for different parts of the building), then attach dustbinlid over the mouth of mixer with bungees and then mix for a minute or two to thouroughly mix binder and shiv. Then remove lid (oh, and this is when you realise you need gloves, breathing mask and eye protection - the binder dust is vicious and light) add water, about half the total and spread evenly over the mix, add in a couple of large stones, about the size of your fist, then mix for a couple of minutes. Stop mixer and dig out the dry mix from the back and sides, add the rest of the water, mix until all consistent, do another dig around for dry bits, mix again. You will eventually recognise what the mix should look and feel like, not too wet, but evenly wetted. Chuck into your shuttering. Tamp down if its standard mix. Repeat over and over again...

    Availability - they seem to have plenty and didn't talk about shortages, the hemp grows quickly and they seem to have it coming in regularly.

    Effect, well at present the barn isn't finished, so there's not a complete insulation envelope, so its difficult to make any judgements, but, it certainly feels warm to the touch, much warmer than, say a plastered wall, even an internal one. Ours probably isn't dried out much either as its not been that warm.

    Its time consuming, but a strangely satisfying creative process.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2010
     
    Thanks Jem. Hemcrete ordered.

    They only specified that I have to remove the cement render from the outside. No mention of rockbar or oak dowels, plastic insulation pins seems to be the current favorite...
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2010
     
    I think you could get away with nothing, but probably best to email Mark Patten at Lime Technology for advice. I think anything that will tie the layers together would be ok, and then its a matter of minimising the cold bridge effect.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2010 edited
     
    More questions :)

    What does the finished wall look like for fixing things to? I can't imagine hanging much load on it.

    A small section of exterior wall needs to be insulated in the bathroom and similar in the kitchen. I'm thinking I might have to forget about hemcrete there, as it will have to be partly tiled in the bathroom and possibly have units hanging on it in the kitchen. Has anyone dealt with similar situations yet?
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeMay 20th 2010
     
    Lime Technology have done experiments using the fixing sometimes used on plasterboard - the thing that is like a very coarse thread screw, which you then fix a smaller screw inside. They used a test wall at their Abingdon warehouse. They kept loading a shelf with more weight, but the experiment ended abruptly as the wall itself fell over as it wasn't fixed to anything! However, I think they'd be reluctant to publish anything about loading as the exact mix achieved does seem to make a huge difference to the friability and the overall strength is linked to the structure. We're not planning on hanging anything beyond small shelves. In our bathroom we've put in permanent shuttering using multipro boards (breathable and water resistant) and we will be hanging sink etc from plywood fixed between the uprights, behind the board. Behind we're using a lighter hemcrete mix, so the overall insulation is about the same, thermal mass slightly lower.
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2010 edited
     
    In reponse to requests for more photos, the following images complete the story of the hemcrete so far:
    This is the gable end completed - getting hemcrete into the very peak is nigh on impossible, so you will see a fillet of wool in this picture. This has now been covered by a relatively thin layer of hemcrete and the overall wobbliness will be reduced by plastering soon.
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2010
     
    This is the bathroom wall, 150mm low density hemcrete mix, behind multipro boards:
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2010
     
    and finally, for now, a look down the stairwell at the completed hemcrete wall, before plastering:
  4.  
    Looks amazing. Truly an inspiration. Will you be trying to get it really flat when plastering, or go with the organic/rustic feel it seems to have at the moment?
    Can't wait to get to the stage you're at - just held up by lack of funds at the moment.

    Also your stairs look quite nice...!
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeJun 29th 2010
     
    We're going for the wobbly wall look, not just because of my plastering skills, we want to retain the overall style. The stairs are by Elheva in Italy. chosen because they don't actually come into contact with the walls at all - they just float in the space. Sadly those old floorboards had to go, as they couldn't support any weight, totally rotten.
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeOct 18th 2010
     
    Time for an update - quite a lot has happened since my last post here: Our LCCC project funding came through, so Hook Norton Low Carbon (www.hn-lc.org.uk) is now live and spending money. I finally decided on ASHP, and its now installed and running, we've had the hemcrete walls plastered, and we've discovered that lime plastering multipro is interesting, you need to pva it, and even then, the plaster drops off... eventually we got it sorted. The lime plaster over the reed cracked along the reeds, but a bit of remedial plastering sorted that out. Lime plaster takes really well on hemcrete without any base coat, though we chickened out and employed a professional plasterer. More photos soon, or find me on facebook.
    • CommentAuthorsuomi
    • CommentTimeOct 18th 2010
     
    Thanks for keeping us up dated Jem. Have been following your story with a real interest. Have you noticed a drop in the mositure feel now that the walls have dried out. ie does the place feel as dry as you expected. Sorry not very well worded, what I am wondering is how does if feel for damp?
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2010
     
    I don't think the lime plaster has dried completely (and its still cracking in places!) but no feeling of damp or any condensation on the single glazed window. Its also amazingly warm in there, even though there is no heating on..
  5.  
    Still warm enough to spend the evening in there without any heating (and slightly open windows!) - I suspect we're getting a heating effect from the hot water tank and its plumbing, but it does suggest that the insulation is working! Pictures of the heat pump...
  6.  
    and upstairs, now plastered..
  7.  
    Looks like you managed to keep some of the floorboards after all?
  8.  
    Yes, it turns out that a third of the barn was very old, and was probably a traditional hayloft, the rest (foreground in the picture) is relatively recent. The very old boards were like weetabix. We had to replace them but got some nice (if expensive) old pine to match the rest... main job now is to develop a finish that is similar to the original ones. Potassium permanganate, pigments and oil all ready, just need to get the lime out of the boards!
  9.  
    We are now using the upstairs of the barn more regularly, if only for piano practice and whilst finishing off the bathroom. Although I understand the theory of good insulation, the reality is quite surprising. It feels remarkably warm in there, even though the heating is generally off. The subjective temperature doesn't seem to alter with external temperature. The room was comfortable to sit in when there had been no heating for 24hrs (we had a window slightly open and the MHRV running and the dehumidifier on). Open the door to the uninsulated space, and the temperature drops within minutes. The snow is still on the roof!
    We are also impressed by our Jaga DBE radiators - these are fan assisted and slightly over-spec'd for the space, but it means we can warm the room (135m3) up to 20c in about 15 minutes - exactly what we need for a sporadically used room. Still lots of fiddly jobs to do, but we hope to watch xmas TV in there!
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