Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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Posted By: WeeBeastieAre these available in the UK? Does anyone have them? Are there downsides/benefits in use? I assume they are more difficult to weatherproof and can interfere with internal window coverings and space, but they must get around these issues in other countries.Yes, they are available. Our choice 7 years ago was between Livingwood and Green Steps and was fairly even. Yes, we have them. I don't know of any downsides; the benefits are the ability to leave them open in the tilted position without worrying too much about potential rain or security threats. They are easier to weatherproof, that's why the continental use them. We use internal blinds mounted to or within the sash for opening windows; we don't have any curtains because we don't like them. On windows that we might want to turn, yes we have to make sure that whatever is on the windowsill/board is easy to move but in practice that's only one or two windows. We've fitted flyscreens over the few windows we do regularly open so we don't let any insects in when we do open them.
Posted By: WeeBeastieSome talk during the recent heat of inward opening windows which would allow external shutters for shading. France is often cited as having lots of these (is this true?). I'm referring to casements, not tilt and turn.Yes I have European style inward Tilt & Turn - love them.
Posted By: borpin
External shutters are not unique to France though they are often wooden. Many other parts of Europe have integrated roller shutters which are fantastic (I lived in Germany for years). Better security, and shading in summer, heat retention in Winter.
UK Planners hate them.
I never found a good detail to fit them without creating a very thin area of insulation (and risking condensation as a result). You could mount them completely external, but that isn't pretty.
Posted By: WeeBeastieShading might be better addressed with a redesign of the south facing elevation to include some sort of verandah or pergola than with shutters.That's what we ended up with, in the design anyway. As it happened I built the first half of the pergola / brise soleil earlier this year and it worked well to cut down the insolation on one of the two large windows. The other I used a loose external cover (piece of garden fleece) as I have mentioned. Maybe next year I'll put up the other half of the pergola.
West facing windows are generally the big problem in terms of overheatingYes, the problem with east and west facing windows is that overhead shading doesn't work because the sun is low in the sky. Our east-facing sun room gets very hot very quickly but that's what it was designed to do. We have internal blinds on our west facing windows, which work well enough since the windows aren't that large. One also has a flyscreen outside that cuts down insolation a bit.
Posted By: WeeBeastieDT,
Are the roller blinds you plan to fit also from Internorm? I see they have windows suited to retrofit which have an integral housing with blind.
I've inward openers that use a profile that wasn't designed to be inward opening - it took the window co quite a while to get it right (and it's still not quite there in really bad weather) - a normal PVC or Alu frame is designed to permit water into the profile (it will get in - don't fight it) and then there is typically a low point in the profile where the water collects and drain holes let it out again. This low point is, by design, on the outer edge but if you turn the profile round it'll be on the inner:
Attached below is heritage 47, the profile that my alu windows use; it's designed to be installed so the outside world is on the right. Any water getting into the frame collects where I highlighted blue and is discharged out of holes drilled in the right side.
To start with my supplier drilled drain holes on the higher part of the profile (my outside world is on the left) which wasn't very successful. An additional strip was added in the center of the profile to try and keep water on the higher part but it kept making its way to the lower part, overflowing the frame and coming into the house. The end solution was to drill right through the profile and install drain holes in the lower part as would typically happen.. The water now thus transits through the entire frame (across the thermal break too- ooh, arr- if I was bothered about it I'd install a tube to carry the water) rather than staying world side of the thermal break like it usually would
In summary; advance warning that the profiles you want might be designed to work a particular way round - conversion is possible but it'll be more engineering and not in the "day in day out" remit of the engineering process the window co typically goes through so you may get some teething troubles as the shop floor workers "do what they always do" and e.g. drill drain holes on the world side, even if it is notionally "on a hill" where the water doesn't collect, rather than in the valley .. 🙄
Posted By: cjardI've inward openers that use a profile that wasn't designed to be inward opening - it took the window co quite a while to get it right (and it's still not quite there in really bad weather) - a normal PVC or Alu frame is designed to permit water into the profile (it will get in - don't fight it) and then there is typically a low point in the profile where the water collects and drain holes let it out again.I'm very impressed that both you and the window company got this to work, but tilt-and-turn windows are readily available in both aluminium and UPVC as well as timber, so why start with a design that wasn't purpose designed?
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