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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2015
     
    Can a UFH manifold be mounted so that the pipes exit upwards?
    E.g. will all the flow meters, activators etc work when unsidedown?
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2015 edited
     
    The de aerator might not be as effective ;)
    Did you know that the pipes bend quite a tight radius if you support them.. Mount the manifold the right way and bend the pipes to suit. The valves are just like taps, don't need gravity. The flow meters are sprung in mine, but your mileage may vary
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2015
     
    I don't see why not, the flow meters may not be accurate, but the rest should work.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2015
     
    Just a thought, why upside down?
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 10th 2015
     
    Posted By: TriassicJust a thought, why upside down?


    I am putting in radiators but wish to control each room with its own programmer/thermostat. There will be 7 controlled zones (some with two radiators) along with a few radiators that just have TRVs. A UFH manifold gives me a central point to balance the systems (therefore I need the flow meters to work) and saving having to install lots of motorised valves.

    As I am using radiators, I can bleed the radiators to remove air from the system.

    To minimise the length of pipes needed I wish to put the manifold on the middle floor of the building. However the best location for it is under a ceiling, with all pipes running up into the ceiling.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeDec 10th 2015
     
    How about putting it in the back of a cupboard? This would then allow you space to fit the manifold the right way up. Then fit a false back inside the cupboard to hide the manifold and pipes. I've done something similar with mine and the false back is mounted on magnetic catches.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 10th 2015
     
    Posted By: TriassicHow about putting it in the back of a cupboard? This would then allow you space to fit the manifold the right way up. Then fit a false back inside the cupboard to hide the manifold and pipes. I've done something similar with mine and the false back is mounted on magnetic catches.


    That would only work if the cupboard was above most of the pipe runs, I rather not have lots of fitting on the pipes and it takes space to change the direction of a pipe.
  1.  
    I have done just this. One manifold upsidedown for individually controlled rads upstairs. One correct way up for ufh downstairs. Works very well.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 13th 2015
     
    Posted By: andy-cheshireI have done just this. One manifold upsidedown for individually controlled rads upstairs. One correct way up for ufh downstairs. Works very well.


    Thanks, what make and model of manifold did you use?

    Did you have per room control on the activates for the radiator manifold?
  2.  
    JG Speedfit manifolds. Every room has individual heatmiser stats...
    Not the cheapest way of doing it but every room can be different temp and time which is nice.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 13th 2015
     
    Thanks Andy,

    Does the boiler cope when just one room is requesting heat? (I assume you have a normal gas boiler.)
  3.  
    Its a gas system boiler but running large buffer, as I was concerned over boiler cycling...
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 13th 2015
     
    Andy, you seem to have done what I am thinking of doing in a HMO.

    I am having the same concern about boiler cycling, how do you control the boiler so it only fires when needed by the buffer tank?

    Have you found a way to include weather compensation in the system?
  4.  
    Will the occupiers like weather compensation? Many dont as they like the feel of hot radiators rather than a luke warm one?
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 14th 2015
     
    I will just have radiators and try to size them so all the rooms heat up at about the same speed. Aiming for a flow of no more than 50c most of the year. As I will not be living in the property, I will not be there to turn up the boiler flow T when it is very cold – hence thinking about weather compensation.

    As the boiler is also being used for the DHW tank, I need to be able to set a different flow T for when there is hot water demand and when the heating is running – not many boilers allow this. However some boilers have a simple weather compensation system that just controls flow temp of the boiler when there is a demand for heating.
    I am thinking of using a UFH wiring center, so I get a “call for heat” signal whenever any of the zones are on.
    Then having a buffer tank with a constant pressure pump (e.g. Grundfos ALPHA2) feeding the manifold (no mixing values) running from the top to the bottom of the buffer. Then having the boiler (with its own pump) running from the bottom to the top of the buffer.

    Both the boiler and the “manifold pump” will run whenever there is a request for heat and I will just let the boiler cycle control system do its work.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 14th 2015
     
    Posted By: ringiAs I will not be living in the property, I will not be there to turn up the boiler flow T when it is very cold – hence thinking about weather compensation

    I feel sure there must be an app for your smartphone ...

    As the boiler is also being used for the DHW tank, I need to be able to set a different flow T for when there is hot water demand and when the heating is running – not many boilers allow this.

    Don't all combis? I've only ever used one and it certainly did.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 14th 2015
     
    Posted By: djhDon't all combis? I've only ever used one and it certainly did.


    The DWH will be provided by a large tank, there are 4 shower that could all be in use at the same time!
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 14th 2015
     
    Posted By: djhI feel sure there must be an app for your smartphone ...


    Not to control the flow T from the boiler, anyway it is best to automate its setting.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2015
     
    Posted By: ringi
    Posted By: djhDon't all combis? I've only ever used one and it certainly did.


    The DWH will be provided by a large tank, there are 4 shower that could all be in use at the same time!

    Yes but the DHW output from a combi could drive the tank at a different temperature to its CH output. No idea whether it's sensible but it's one way to get the extra temperature control you wanted.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2015
     
    Posted By: ringi
    Posted By: djhI feel sure there must be an app for your smartphone ...

    Not to control the flow T from the boiler, anyway it is best to automate its setting.

    Sorry, should have added a smiley - :devil: :bigsmile: - bad joke warning.
  5.  
    Posted By: ringi
    Posted By: TriassicJust a thought, why upside down?


    I am putting in radiators but wish to control each room with its own programmer/thermostat. There will be 7 controlled zones (some with two radiators) along with a few radiators that just have TRVs. A UFH manifold gives me a central point to balance the systems (therefore I need the flow meters to work) and saving having to install lots of motorised valves.

    As I am using radiators, I can bleed the radiators to remove air from the system.

    To minimise the length of pipes needed I wish to put the manifold on the middle floor of the building. However the best location for it is under a ceiling, with all pipes running up into the ceiling.


    I have been considering using a manifold for my radiators for the same reasons as above. Can you use UFH manifolds for radiators without modifications? I've noticed a couple of manufacturers make radiator manifolds, but they don't look any different from UFH manifolds?
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2015
     
    Radiator manifolds are more basic and don't allow an activator to be used to control each output, they also tent not to have flow meters.
  6.  
    Posted By: ringiRadiator manifolds are more basic
    and therefore to cost a shed load less IME
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    Posted By: Gotanewlife
    Posted By: ringiRadiator manifolds are more basic
    and therefore to cost a shed load less IME


    It is a shame that there are not dependable wired "smart" TRV, so the control can be done at the radiator end.
    • CommentAuthordb8000
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2015
     
    Funny coincidence this thread.

    I'm just fitting a JG Speedfit ufh manifold to serve radiators in a single storey annexe to my house.

    The pipes used to be buried in the concrete screed (in insulated slab) and the far end of the run would never get hot.

    Now replumbing the annexe in the ceiling void under the insulation. Drops to the radiators.

    I can fit the manifold in the ceiling void. The advantage of the Speedfit one is that each rail rotates in the frame. So I have fitted the frame horizontally. The return rail is also horizontal. The feed rail with the air bleed and flow meters is vertical but just with elbows immediately feeding each room.

    If you can't get the manifold at the top of the system, the air bleed is of no use anyway and you might as well install upside down if that's easier.
    • CommentAuthorcubbs
    • CommentTimeDec 22nd 2015
     
    Ive also been thinking about doing a similar set up with our upstairs rads and UFH downstairs.

    Would you still fit radiator valves at all? Even just lockshield valves to allow possible replacement of rads. Or leave valve off to speed up the flow ?

    What are a good type of room stat to suit this set up? Same as UFH stats?

    Also what type of cable is best used for stat wiring? Im fisrt fixing the house now.

    Thanks
  7.  
    Posted By: cubbsWould you still fit radiator valves at all? Even just lockshield valves to allow possible replacement of rads. Or leave valve off to speed up the flow ?

    Why would you want to speed up the flow around the CH. If you have a gas boiler its probably condensing type or will be next boiler change and if it is solid fuel then you may have a thermal store, either way you want a low return temp. which means over size rads and/or a slow flow to get the return temp. down.
    • CommentAuthorcubbs
    • CommentTimeDec 22nd 2015
     
    Ok. You're right.

    Any thoughts on 10mm microbore polypipe?

    Might not block up with fernox in thermalstore and a magnaclean on the rads circuit?


    Cheers
  8.  
    Years ago (about 40) I put in a CH system with 6mm plastic microbore. It was a coal fired boiler running the CH. We never had any problems with it - except one of the upstairs rads would gravity circulate!

    By the way with a TS the rad. water and the TS water are usually one and the same. Your statement " Might not block up with fernox in thermalstore and a magnaclean on the rads circuit?" implies they might be separated.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 22nd 2015
     
    "Why would you want to speed up the flow around the CH. If you have a gas boiler its probably condensing type or will be next boiler change and if it is solid fuel then you may have a thermal store, either way you want a low return temp. which means over size rads and/or a slow flow to get the return temp. down. "

    If you have weather comp working correctly and the radiators are sized so the flow never needs to be over 50, then you could get very good condensing by speeding up the flow round the radiators. By having a faster flow, you can have ALL of the radiator surface at the flow T, and therefore have a lower flow T. (Normally the bottom of a radiator is at a lower T so gives of less heat.)
   
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