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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeDec 7th 2010
     
    Evan - that is indeed cost-effective and very easy. Sheet of Ali (2 quid), thermal-glue some stars to it (about 12 quid for enough to light a room). But more hassle than most people can be bothered with, and perhaps not pretty enough for some. And you still need to find a cheap, efficient driver, which is where I've stalled so far.

    You can buy dedicated LED fittings which are efficient, well engineered and reasonably priced (in strip form), but it's currently (ha ha) hard work to find the gold amongst the inefficient and the expensive. Cheap, efficient well-engineered halogen downlighter-style lights don't appear to exist yet, unless you think that 50 quid is 'cheap enough'. (I don't).
  1.  
    Wookey,

    I would be interested to see your target spec for cheap, efficient halogen downlighter. As you can imagine, we are working on something along those lines, so input would be much appreciated.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2010
     
    Wookey, thanks for the explanation. I didn't realise a driver would be the hard bit, having not actually tried to do this!

    I'd be all over off the shelf strips too, if you can recommend the "gold" ones :)
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2010
     
    Evan. The strip I bought no longer seems to be on the site. It was one of these, but already mounted in an ali profile and gooped in to make it IP67: http://www.leds.de/en/LED-strips-modules-oxid-oxid-oxid-oxid/High-power-LED-strips/High-Power-SMD-LED-strip-white-600mm-1200lm-12V.html (and I got 3 for 56 euro).

    Here are some that are significantly more efficient at 105 lm/W: http://www.leds.de/en/LED-strips-modules-oxid-oxid-oxid-oxid/SuperFlux-LED-strips/ (40 euro)
    and there is a profile to mount them in on that page to mount them in (15 euro). There is a wider range of profiles and mounts on this site: http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-Supply-c_106_0.html.

    An option for the DIY-inclined I've just worked out for lighting a room is
    using the heatsink-profile LT1205 (13 euro) and LT0938 PCB (6 euro)which can take up to 8 power LEDs. You could put 6 XR-Es (7 Euro each) on there, running them at 700mA (driver is 8 euro). That would provide approximately 1000 lumens which is enough to light a 3m2 room.

    The neat bit about this arrangement is that you can split the LEDs up however you see fit. If it was me I'd install each 3cm long LED segment containing one LED separately so there might be two rows of 3 across the roof, providing even lighting. The spec doesn't mention it but I'm pretty sure you could put the newer XP-G LEDs on instead which are only 5 euro each, but 130 lm/W, so that would bring the LED cost for 1000 lumens down from 42 euro to 15 euro (and use a 1A driver), or 25 euro if you stick to 700mA. In fact this seems like such a good idea I think I'll buy the bits and try it :-)

    Lightplanet. My vision for LEDs is little ali plates (maybe 10cm squared? - whatever is needed for the heat dissipation) with one or two bare LEDs on them. You fit as many of these as you need to get enough light for the room, probably running them at about 200 lumens each. Get at least 85 lm/W, preferably over 100. Run the lot off one driver unit, in series, current control (so no wasted power on resistors to match them to CV drivers. Find a driver unit that is at least 85% efficient but still around 10-12 quid. Each LED luminaire is around a tenner too. This gives you very low-profile lighting - only about 10mm thick, and the units could just be glued or velcroed in place without compromising airtightness in the ceiling. The awkward bit is wiring, as always. Could you run surface wiring and make a feature of it (e.g with a little half-moon slimline conduit?) otherwise it gets to go in the ceiling as usual.

    For a more conventional 'one big light' concept the new chip-on-board LEDs look interesting: http://www.leds.de/en/High-Power-LEDs/Chip-On-Board-LEDs/Bridgelux-LED-Array-BXRA-C1202-white-1320-Lumen.html
    that's 1300 lm at 98 lm/W for 30 euro (and you can turn it up to 2000 lm).
    Stick that on a heat sink plate and let it light the room.

    I really don't like the 'lamp in deep recess' idea as you get annoying holes which allow moisure where you don't want it, and/or leave the heatsink stuck in some insulation. We can make flat lights now - so I reckon we should.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2010
     
    Wookey - Re the wiring..

    One thing to consider in the UK are the building regs. LED lighting is probably classed in the same way as 12V halogen so needs to be fitted by an electrician everywhere unless it's sold as a prewired set that can be just plugged together.

    Perhaps if the exposed wiring designed to be a feature? eg wiring provided in say 1m long rigid chrome tubes with plug one end socket the other so that a matrix of LEDs on a 1m square 2D grid could be constructed.
  2.  
    Wookey, I'm sure it's easy when you know how - but never having even soldered anything in my life (yet) such diy lights seem rather daunting (and I don't have the money to make mistakes) - however the cost per lumen you quote is very tempting, even affordable! If you do do it perhaps you could post a couple of pics of the key points in the process. I had to order my son's bedroom stuff in a big hurry but the next job is the new kitchen - and I' hope to have a little more time to prepare for this little undertaking.

    Alternatively, what's your best recommendation for a 'plug and play' single point LED - ie connect the +/- and Earth up to the mains and switch (non-dimmed) and 'see the light'. Ta alot.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2010
     
    Sound good wookey. I did think strips could run along the edge of a ceiling, continuous lengths or blocks interspersed with matching conduit or profile to hide the wiring. Not sure how well that works from a lighting point of view though.

    I may try this as well if you do. Also sounds good for kitchens doesn't it - decent lighting under every unit and above the work tops, all in one string, dead cheap.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2010
     
    Posted By: CWattersWookey - Re the wiring..
    Perhaps if the exposed wiring designed to be a feature? eg wiring provided in say 1m long rigid chrome tubes with plug one end socket the other so that a matrix of LEDs on a 1m square 2D grid could be constructed.

    I like that idea :bigsmile:

    Another way to conceal wiring is to run it along the corner of the wall and ceiling and then cover with coving. Gets you part of the way there at least.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2010
     
    With a bit of clever design I giess you might invent something like a light equivalent to Magnetix so arrays of other shapes are possible.
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeDec 9th 2010
     
    Cwatters. You may be techincally right about the wiring regs but I'm afraid I'm just going to laugh in the face of anyone who tells me I can't wire up ~10W of LEDs in a room - that's just total madness. There is arguably some justification in fretting about LV wiring for crazy arrays of 1kW of halogens, but there is no way you can generate any meaningful risk with 1A of LED-driving current. Introducing such regs at a time when lighting power is about to drop to 'not much' is at best 'unhelpful'. Don't get me started about the insanity of it all...(My new extension is going to have maybe 1 socket and 1 pendant lightbulb, then building control and his pet electrician can bugger off...)

    Gotanewlife. I wouldn't recommend mains LEDs - not efficient. You want a driver unit and some low-voltage LEd luminaires. For plug and play you could try any of the 'smartenergy massive' lights on this page 54 euro for 300 lumens: http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Luminaire/Wall-and-Ceiling-c_164_165.html
    Buy three of them and an LT1279 supply: http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Controlling/Constant-Current-Power-Supply/Power-Supply-for-5-8x-3W-LEDs--230V--LT-1282_118_119.html to light a room. Just string the wires from supply to each luminaire in parallel - dead easy. For similar money the ecostar6+ already linked in this thread would also do the job (and that does plug into the mains as well as achieve reasonable efficacy).

    The samsung modules here (10 euro for 130 lumens IP54, 60 lm/W) look like quite good value. No soldering although you get to pay 1.5 euro for the connectors. I guess it really needs some heatsink.

    Here's a guy who's gone for the 'light your home with DIY LEDs' in a big way: http://www.dmcleish.com/MauiHome/ lots of interesting stuff in there, including a couple of my suggested 'LED on a sheet' lights.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 10th 2010
     
    Posted By: wookeyCwatters. You may be techincally right about the wiring regs but I'm afraid I'm just going to laugh in the face of anyone who tells me I can't wire up ~10W of LEDs in a room - that's just total madness.


    Oh I totally agree with you but it affects the market for LEDs. DIY stores tend not to stock things that encourage people to break the regs and professional/trade outlets are very price sensitive.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeDec 10th 2010
     
    Wookey: I'm not at all convinced that mass-produced mains LED lamps can't match LV DC efficiency when all is said and done (eg less wiring losses, more voltage elbow room for constant-current drivers, less protective-diode loss, blah, blah).

    I have a nice sample V5 c/o LightPlanet that claims 100lm/W which beats hands down any DC LED lighting that I have at the moment. (Except possibly my homebrew ~3mW battery-powered nightlight with an amazingly god LED in it, nominally 60cd.)

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeDec 12th 2010 edited
     
    DIY stores tend not to stock things that encourage people to break the regs

    If that was true they wouldn't have a great big electrical section where you can get all the stuff you need to ignore partP wholesale.

    Damon. You are quite right that there is no reason a mains LED luminare can't be made as efficient as a separate driver+ DC LED luminare, but you do have to have a driver in every luminaire. It ought to be quite a lot cheaper to have one driver and number of DC emitters. Given the prices of CFL bulbs it's clearly possible to do 'driver in every fitting' very cheaply in high volume, but currently I think a driver is adding at least a fiver to each luminaire, probably more like a tenner. And direct mains LEDs (like acriche) which use LED strings+resistors waste a lot of energy.

    I guess we shall see how the market develops. See http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6672" > for potentially relevant tech (houshold low voltage DC system)
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeDec 13th 2010
     
    The advantage of 'one driver per lamp' is the ability to match them exactly, not have to deal with plonker end users like me plugging the wrong things into one another or the wrong way round, not having to put in protective stuff on the off-chance, etc, etc. And I suspect that the core circuitry is fairly settled for common variants, and only a few components (inductor, capacitor) need to be tweaked to cover most lamps.

    Anyhow, I'm not here just to diss your ideas! %-P

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorrhamdu
    • CommentTimeDec 15th 2010
     
    Posted By: LightplanetI would be interested to see your target spec for cheap, efficient halogen downlighter.

    What's been described is interesting but not really a replacement for halogen downlighters. And such a thing is needed, both for the vast retrofit market and for lighting designers who genuinely want that look, with scallops on the walls and pools of light on the floor.

    And believe me, lighting designers are still totally in love with their MR16s. Until this lot die and new green lighting designers spring up, what you need is, in roughly this order:

    1. same 'sunny' colour as halogen - consistently from every lamp
    2. dimmable; dim-to-red if you can do it convincingly (so forget that...)
    3. similar choice of beam angles to halogen, with nice soft edges
    4. a modest improvement in lumens per watt - but be conservative when claiming 'halogen watts equivalent', don't oversell like the CFL makers
    5. a major improvement in discounted lifetime cost - in normal rooms, not just in hotel corridors
    6. no hard-edge shadows

    For eco-conscious audiences such as this forum, you could add:
    7. all the lumens per watt you can get, without completely compromising the other objectives
    8. low embedded CO2
    9. low emissions of VOCs and other suspected toxics
    10. ethically sourced materials
    11. recyclability
    12. compatibility with any emerging DC wiring standards

    Should be a piece of cake...
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2010
     
    How many domestic homes have their lighting done by 'lighting designers'. Aren't most of them still done with one pendant fitting in the middle of each room? And most of the rest have an array of MR16s for no particular reason other than it's cheap and effective?

    You're quite right that it will take a while for people to realise what they can do with LEDs, but the lighting designers are already catching on, and they suddenly have _so_ many more options than they ever did with halogens. I can't believe it'll be long before they (nearly) all become huge LED enthusiasts.

    For 'normal people' an array of little LED luminaires isn't much different from an array of MR16s in overall effect - indeed it can be made to look almost identical. I reckon most people aren't that bothered and just want 'not too blue'.

    Personally I'm a fan of 'alien autopsy white' as it's apparently known in the trade, and the corresponding maximum efficiency :-)
    • CommentAuthorrhamdu
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2010
     
    Posted By: wookey
    How many domestic homes have their lighting done by 'lighting designers'.

    Obviously not many. But public tastes are influenced by what people see in restaurants, hotels, bars and rich friends' houses. Oh, and magazines and TV programmes.

    To be a little more specific. Designers of light fittings are beginning to exploit the possibilities of LEDs. Lighting designers (professionals who design lighting schemes) are tagging along slowly - but see how few LEDs there are in books by leading exponents such as Sally Storey. However I suspect much of the active resistance comes from interior designers, who are unduly obsessed with colour rendering index. For them it is essential that their clients' expensive fabrics and cosmetics are seen at their best.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeDec 16th 2010
     
    Friend of mine's spouse is a senior NHS bod and wants "operating theatre white": the V5 is her friend just so soon as she next feels the urge to splurge on-line (I lent her one to test)!

    Rgds

    Damon
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2010
     
    Posted By: DamonHDFriend of mine's spouse is a senior NHS bod and wants "operating theatre white"

    I know nothing about operating theatre lighting but I think there may be another factor in "operating theatre white" than the colour. Namely the brightness. Our colour/light perception is quite sensitive to brightness.

    I prefer "daylight" lamps, for example, but I think they look horrible if used in a low-light scheme. They look good when their light is bright enough to compare with daylight coming through a window. I suspect operating theatres may be an extreme example!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2010
     
    As I thought "the GU50 providing 140,000 Lux @1m" !

    There's also a LED version that's even better "High intensity illumination up to 160,000 Lux with near perfect colour rendition"

    http://www.brandon-medical.com/uploads/Product%20Brochures/Medical%20Lighting/GLED%20HD-LED%20Brochure.pdf

    Also designed to avoid disturbing airflow so it should be compatible with the MVHR. Sounds like just the sort of thing every eco-bling house should have :-)
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2010
     
    Ah but is it dimmable :-)
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2010
     
    Posted By: CWattersAh but is it dimmable :-)

    You can dim each component colour individually, to best see the condition of the meat :bigsmile: :devil:
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