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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


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    • CommentAuthorbaffled
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2011
     
    Any views on/experience of using this product?

    Thinking of using it on a cold wall on a fairly narrow staircase. It's a west-facing wall on a stone house with no cavity wall and no space to add anything internally that's any thicker than the 2mm of the Warmaline. Underneath the staircase is a cellar.

    No possibility of permission for external insulation.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2011
     
    Purists will probably say it's a waste of time/money/effort but I say it is better than the proverbial "kick up the backside"! I have used it in cold rooms primarily to eliminate mould growth due to condensation on cold surfaces. This works every time so there has to be some insulating effect, but I would have to admit that it must be minimal. if you do go ahead and use it, then make sure you use the pukka Warmline adhesive. Anything else and it will peel off fairly quickly. (I suspect it is just PVA though and they can charge a premium price for it!).
  1.  
    If it's EPS at 0.038 lambda, and the wall is 225 solid brick (with an R value of 0.476) then you can calc the R (and thus U) value. 0.002/0.038=0.05. Total R therefore 0.526. 1/0.526 = U = 1.90.
  2.  
    Oops sorry, you said it was stone. Let's assume U = 1.8 then, and R = 0.55. Total R = 0.6 and U = 1.67.

    Nick
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