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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2010
     
    I am after a copy of British Standards 5395-2:1984 Stairs, ladders and walkways. Code of practice for the design of helical and spiral stairs.

    Considering various stair options for a loft conversion and would like to see what guidelines I need to work to. Checked the local library but it's not available to order. Expensive to buy new, so looking for a second hand copy. If anyone can help, then please get in touch. Thanks, Jon.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2010
     
    Have sent you email.
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      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2010
     
    Isn't Bldg Regs sufficient?
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2010
     
    Posted By: fostertomIsn't Bldg Regs sufficient?


    That refers to BS5395 in places.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2010
     
    Thanks for your help Colin - all sorted now!

    Can you believe that document is £84 quid new and it's only 18 pages long? Part of me thinks information like this should be made publicly available for free (or at least for more modest prices), but I can also see that the organisation needs to make money to exist.

    FosterTom - Yeah I had a good squint at part K building regs but it's very vague on spiral/helical stairs and basically tells you to follow BS 5395. The good thing about this is that the BS guidelines on spirals are far more accommodating in terms of space saving stair designs than part K, so it's looking like a much better choice for my loft conversion project. So I'm looking into using a compact 180 degree twist helical design now. Much better than those nasty alternate tread jobs referred to in part K. The space is very tight though so it'll be right on the limit of what's permitted.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2010
     
    Consider pushing the bed up there before installing the stairscase :-)
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2010 edited
     
    Let me quote a section from BS 5395 on the subject...

    "Designers should consider whether the minimum clearances recommended in table 2 are sufficient for the passage of large objects, such as furniture, coffins."

    Coffins? COFFINS?

    Good to see the British Standards writers have a sense of humour. I must admit I re-read that sentence and had to laugh. No coffins going up or down from there (hopefully). But good advice on the bed. We have a futon to go up there that dismantles, but there's some chunky parts and I'll want to make sure I can slide them up without scuffing the new plaster or breaking balustrades etc...
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2010 edited
     
    Posted By: jonharrispart K building regs but it's very vague on spiral/helical stairs and basically tells you to follow BS 5395. The good thing about this is that the BS guidelines on spirals are far more accommodating
    Really? Give some idea of how? The only way I can think of, that the BS could be more relaxed than PtK, is if it allows less than 50 minimum going. You can do some already excessively tight, perilous-feeling designs under PtK.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2010 edited
     
    The way I interpreted it that the minimum going under part K is 220mm, that's for straight flights and also tapered treads measured at the centre point. BS 5395 allows for a minimum going of 145mm at centres on spirals and helicals, so that allows for much tighter/steeper steps. Both regs have a maximum rise of 220mm per step, although part K stipulates a maximum pitch of 42 degrees whereas there appears to be no pitch limit with BS 5395.

    I cant see how you can do really tight stairs under part K if the going is restricted to 220, but maybe I've misread something? Unless you go down the alternating tread route, but I've disregarded that as I really cant stand them.

    One thing I'm still unsure of, is whether an octagonal staircase can be classed as spiral or helical (or in my case, 4 sides of an octagon). I'd prefer this kind of design as it's simpler and cheaper to manufacture than a circle, as well as working better with my walls, which would run flush to the edges of the staircase.
    •  
      CommentAuthorali.gill
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2010 edited
     
    definition is based on how the structure is formed
    spiral stairs are connected to a central 'pillar'
    helical stairs are the structure and will 'spiral' to their own design.

    see image gallery below
    http://www.crescentstairs.co.uk/image-gallery.php
    tech spec for cat a may be useful
    http://www.crescentstairs.co.uk/technical-specifications.php

    4 sides of an octagon is a double winder isnt it
    http://www.stairplan.com/winderstaircases.htm#double
    you could maybe do the same as above but with 2no. 4 tread winders rather than 3 tread.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2010
     
    Less than 220 going on a spiral would surely feel very precipitous! Just like a steep alternating-tread loft stair. I'd sooner have a proper loft ladder - at least then I know I have to hold on!
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010 edited
     
    It's a shame I cant easily knock up a demo so I can get a taste of what it's like to climb a helical with a 150mm centre going (235mm outside, 120mm inside), 220 rise, with 600mm width steps. BS 5395 would allow it. It's on the limit, but it's still feasible, and I'm seriously looking at using it. I agree, there may be a chance it'll be a little precarious to navigate. However, I propose a central handrail and walls flush to the outside string to offer at least a reasonable level of protection from falling.

    As for loft ladders serving a 3rd floor loft conversion in a period house? I just don't think that would look right to be honest - and my wife hates climbing ladders! If we ever decided to sell then I'd imagine it'd put off a fair few buyers too. There's no reason why compact stairs cant be aesthetic and functional. When I get a moment, I'll try and upload a plan of my design so you guys can critique it.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010
     
    Have you fully explored say a 600 clear width dogleg with 180o of winders, maybe with 'clear well' i.e. a pair of newells say 175 apart at the narrow end of the winders, so as to get 5 or 6 winders into the 180o? Stairs like that can be very compact, don't feel precipitous and can match extg. in detail, or simplified 'attic' traditional version of same.

    Have you looked at stacking the new staircase above the existing stair that rises from below, so that at least at 1st. Fl. level it uses effectively 'free' presently unused space? Really squeeze your clear headrooms, above the stair from below, and below the 2nd. Fl. stairwell trimmer and/or roof slope, down to 1900 or less in isolated places
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010 edited
     
    I have looked at the dogleg with winders, but it renders it part K and so I'm stuck with the 220 going. I did manage to pull together a design with that, although it ate up quite a bit of space and compromised one of my 1st floor bedrooms (bed 3) rather more than I would have liked.

    I also looked hard at building stairs over existing stairs. Unfortunately, to give the head height I'd need a _large_ side dormer. Not a big fan of those for reasons I've mentioned before about unbalancing the roof lines as we live in a semi-d.

    Here is a rough plan of my 180 degree helical. Bedroom 3 will be compromised, but bespoke stairs fitted in situ will allow for storage under, and with 9 steps up before hitting bedroom 1, I should be able to open the door without obstruction, with the final 3 steps sited over the entrance. Bedroom 2 is unaffected by the design.

    12 steps total with a 220 rise will get me up to 2800mm and in the loft. The position of the last step is critical because it sites me in the ideal spot for a small 3rd floor landing and access door to bedroom 4.

    Handrail to go on the inside. Step width 600, total diameter 1800.

    Here are some rough before and after plans. Any thoughts? Also would this design pass as helical?
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010
     
    Proposed staircase...
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010
     
    Looks neat - and makes sense, if the ridge runs bottom to top. If left to right, don't see why this is OK for headroom but a stair over stairwell requires dormer. Top floor plan? - is it 2 rooms or one up there?
    •  
      CommentAuthorali.gill
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010
     
    Unless you're planning on a big chunky pillar in the middle of the half doughnut then that is a helical staircase.
    post the dims for the inner and outer half octagon and i might stay up late and knock up a 3d model.
    might as well add the height of the door for bed 1 and ceiling.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010 edited
     
    Posted By: fostertomLooks neat - and makes sense, if the ridge runs bottom to top. If left to right, don't see why this is OK for headroom but a stair over stairwell requires dormer. Top floor plan? - is it 2 rooms or one up there?


    Thanks. Here is the top level plan with lines to show the structure of the hipped roof. Just 1 bedroom. Not sure if I can squeeze a WC in, probably not, but I've shown where it could go, if there was enough head room. I suppose if you sit down to use the loo, it might just be possible?

    Posted By: ali.gillUnless you're planning on a big chunky pillar in the middle of the half doughnut then that is a helical staircase.
    post the dims for the inner and outer half octagon and i might stay up late and knock up a 3d model.
    might as well add the height of the door for bed 1 and ceiling.


    No central pillar intended. Thanks for confirmation on the design. 3d model would be very, very cool and much appreciated!

    Octagon is 1800mm outside dia, inside dia is 600mm. Height of door is 2000mm and ceiling is 2650mm.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010
     
    Looks like the octagonal stair is much further to left, on top floor than on first. As top floor is drawn, I'd have thought there's still a chance of stacking a new L-plan top staircase above first floor stairwell, top tread straight into bedroom 4, to left of where it says velux. Depends on how the first floor stair is laid out. Isn't it posible to make a dormer on the hip end, for headroom - or even just the little bit of extra headroom that a carefully placed Velux creates, above the sloping hip ceiling plane.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010 edited
     
    First floor plan is zoomed in a bit, cropping off much of bedrooms 1, 2 and 3. Might explain the staircase appearing to shift between floors, although I admit these are rough drafts done by hand without measuring.

    Trouble with starting stairs above stairwell is that the thick 10" purlins get in the way of headroom. They are sited roughly where the walls are on the top floor. I've been told you can pull them out and put in purlin walls but wont these still cause an obstruction if the stairs start to climb right up against the outside wall?

    Dormer on side is certainly a possibility. Would need to be built off the outside wall and rise up to ridge height (or very near), to give the headroom. So it wont be small! I guess you could give the dormer a hipped roof to soften the view from the main road, but it's still not my preferred option.

    Good idea about using the velux to steal extra headroom. I did think of this before, and it _might_ just give me enough scope to run the stairs in the way you suggest. However, would it not mean I'll need a very long sheet of glass running the full length of the roof hip and directly above the stairs, approx 2.5 - 3m long, and about 600mm wide? From the main road it might look a bit odd.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010
     
    Give us an idea which way the Grd to 1st Fl stairs run - where's to top step on the 1st Fl plan? - and whether straight flight or dogleg. How far inboard from end wall is the purlin? What's the roof pitch - steeper or flatter than 45o?
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2010 edited
     
    Here is a complete 1st floor plan. Straight flight of stairs from ground to 1st floor, with half landing at top.

    Purlin is about 1.5m in from end wall. Roof pitch approx 45 degrees.

    Another useful measurement is the 1st floor ground to purlin height which is 3.4m.
    •  
      CommentAuthorali.gill
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2010
     
    I should phone the planners to see what their policy is on side-dormers as my local planners have cracked down on too many different styles springing up along the same street.
    They also prefer the original hip shape to remain intact then the dormer sit below that.
    I managed to get away with it recently to match the other half of the semi that had a dormer built at ridge height before the new guidance was introduced.
    Bedroom 3 looks like you don't have much room to spare in there anyway.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2010
     
    Oo I see jonharris - looks like your solution's prob right, v neat in fact.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2010
     
    I live on a main road with a healthy mix of Victorian, Edwardian and 1920-30s houses, with an assortment of hipped and gable end roofs. I've had a good squint up and down the street and studied google maps, and to the best of my knowledge no-one has put up a side dormer - yet. I don't know if this is a good indicator or not with regards to getting planning, probably not!

    I've said this before - I would really only feel comfortable with a side dormer if the neighbours did the same, but then if they agreed, I'd probably want to go the full 9 yards and push for a hip-to-gable conversion. Unlikely they will want to co-operate though. So in that case, I would prefer to use a side velux, which led me to this design.

    Should probably have a word with the planners, as you say, just to assess the state of play.

    Yes, room 3 is a small single bed, more of a study really. So I cant really afford to lose much space in there at all, and if stairs do break in, then I really need to reclaim the space under for storage. Thought my helical design should allow space for a reasonable corner wardrobe or shelving though? So it could replace the need for a freestanding piece of furniture.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2010
     
    Posted By: fostertomOo I see jonharris - looks like your solution's prob right, v neat in fact.


    Thanks Tom, high praise coming from an Architect!

    No doubt you spotted the need to run the stairs in the top left corner of the purlins to maximise space on the top floor?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2010
     
    Yes. You could pull the headroom under Velux trick in the WC too - position the pan just right for peeing when standing with your forehead an inch away from the Velux glass on the slope above - but consider what happens when the Velux swivels to open!
    •  
      CommentAuthorali.gill
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2010 edited
     
    The stairs look scary - even in a virtual world.
    Its a sketchup file - so download the free version of sketchup -
    I'll post the .skp file up to the google warehouse so you can download it from there and will update you on its name when its up. apparently gw doesnt like firefox.
    *edit - what a crock of shit - you'll have to whisper your email address until i can sort out getting it uploaded.
    download it, open it up, right click where it says plan and select 'play animation'
    click Window - Outliner : to see the three components copied four times.
    i suppose we could add a foot or two to see how much you actually get to step on!

    Can you drop a plumb line from the purlin then get a measurement from the first floor external wall (above stairway) parallel as possible with the wall to bedroom 3. get a photo of what part of the purlin the plumbline is hung from, and purlin dims.
      Stair_Helical_JH.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorali.gill
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2010 edited
     
    pic.2 - cos if i dont write pic then it wont let me add the pic
    i wont add the plan view - its the same as yours but brown
    and i'll add the strings when i get a chance, or a bout of insomnia.
      Stair_Helical_JH.2.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2010 edited
     
    Tom, you got me thinking about going for a pair of small Velux's now, side by side. One serving the loft landing and other the WC, placed right above the pan for extra head height. Obscure glass for obvious reasons! I've calculated it could give me as much as an extra 10 or 12 inches vertical headroom, by the time I've factored in all the insulation I'll have to fit, both in and over the rafters. Would need to shift the bedroom door over a little to make room for cloakroom door alongside, which would be accessed via bedroom and probably needing a sizeable corner cutting off to fit.

    Thanks for those renders ali.gill, much appreciated. The first one looks dangerously steep, possibly due to the strong perspective applied? The second one looks a bit kinder. I think seeing it with walls/strings and a handrail would definitely help, if you can spare the time. My email address is on my profile. So far I like what I see. It's certainly steep, but at the same time quite exciting and a little unusual... it's certainly not put me off. Maybe the view from the top looking down might do though!

    Posted By: ali.gillCan you drop a plumb line from the purlin then get a measurement from the first floor external wall (above stairway) parallel as possible with the wall to bedroom 3. get a photo of what part of the purlin the plumbline is hung from, and purlin dims.


    Distance from lowest point on purlin to end wall is 1250mm. I used a plumb line as you said. Purlins are 9"x3". Photo attached with arrow pointing to where I measured from. Got lots more pics and measurements if you need them, as I've been up the loft today and written them all down.
   
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