What ho one and all,

When I built the house, did not consider everything at the planning stage, one minor error was not plumbing an outside tap until later in the build.

By that time, I had the interior plumbing in place, and due to the mains pressure being around 6 bar, installed a pressure reducer for the house. But, I took the outside tap from the mains pressure side of the incoming water.

Over the years, the rubbish Hoselock fittings outside have kinda failed and a few days ago, we wasted quite a lot of water as a result of failing to turn off the outside tap. I have fixed that now but would like to install a pressure reducer into the outside pipe. Unfortunately, there is no 'flexibility' in the interior 15mm pipework to allow that, so I am considering fitting a short length of flexible tail.

Apart from the fact that a tail usually reduces the bore to 10mm, is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Or is there another plumbing solution that I don't' know about?

Thanks and toodle pip

Posted By: RexI will be fitting a check valve inside and a compression slip joiner.

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17036&Focus=290370#Comment_290370

Rex, is this the same plumbing project you did two years ago using buried hosepipes?

One option is to redo the plumbing using pukka underground MDPE pipe and fittings which are ok for higher pressure.

Another option is to connect a pressure reducer using the same compression slip joiner which you used for the anti-contamination check valves, though obvs this will much reduce the flow through your hosepipes.

Another option is to ask the water co to reduce the mains pressure, 6 bar is pretty high, 1-2 is normal.


I wouldn't want to use those flexible braided tap connectors at 6 bar. We had an incident where the water co accidentally increased the water supply to our village from the normal 1 bar up to about 6 bar, and lots of people had leaks from those connectors, and from washing machine hoses etc.

Yes and no. I did the underground piping to get a taps for the garden to places that should have been installed from the get-go. They are not the problem; no leaks at all. But to connect the only mains tap to the pipework, using Hoselock fittings to the MDPE, the mains pressure to frequently causes the bloody awful Hoselock clamp to blow apart. Does not happen in use as the 6 bar pressure is free to flow. But a few days ago, my wife forgot to close the outside tap and when we returned, the pressure had blown the Hoselock fitting off.

Not a big problem in itself and I have now repaired with compression fittings and a jubilee clip to hopefully stop it happening again. But to reduce the chance, it would be useful to reduce the delivery pressure; hence the valve.

But the 2m run of 15mm copper from the internal stopcock to the elbow where it goes through the wall is soldered. It does have a compression at either end of the isolation valve but I would guess, insufficient movement to fit a pressure reduction valve with compression.

Thanks for the above links. Should have fitted Geka from the get-go. Since I have not had any problems with the regular 15mm compression tails to every tap, am considering this:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-15mm-x-1-2-x-300mm/6768g after the valve.

Posted By: RexBut the 2m run of 15mm copper from the internal stopcock to the elbow where it goes through the wall is soldered. It does have a compression at either end of the isolation valve but I would guess, insufficient movement to fit a pressure reduction valve with compression.

How does whether it is soldered or not affect your ability to cut the pipe?

I would love to have 6bar to the hose pipe. I would change hose fittings as when you want to use a long length of hose the pressure drop can be significant. I agree the Hoselock are not very durable most of my fittings are now Geka type.
Brass and cheaper than plastic Hoselock and being recyclable more eco. The rubber gasket between the fittings is substantial and cheaper than a Hoselock "O" ring. No complicated plumbing required either.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=geka+fittings&form=ANNNB1&refig=e19688a562bc42d995ffee8af327a59e&sp=1&lq=0&qs=AS&pq=geka&sc=10-4&cvid=e19688a562bc42d995ffee8af327a59e&sydconv=1

For my 2p worth
Leave the pressure as it is and use better fittings. either Geka type or brass hoselock fittings rather than plastic ones. O rings for hoselock are cheap if you buy generic O rings of the right size.

I have found that hose pipes left on and closed at the down stream end can burst if in direct hot sunlight - especially the darker hosepipes and the cheaper ones (obviously) suffer more. so I don't leave hosepipes under pressure any more.

Gentlemen,

Thanks for the replies and apologies for kinda having raised the thread previously. Perhaps my aging brain cells are working on other things!

The compression slip coupler would definitely do the job.

When posting, had not considered the pressure loss at the hosepipe end if I reduce the initial pressure. Since I have resolved the external coupling 'problem' with improved fittings (3/2" tap screw to the underground pipe with hose jubilee clipped to the fitting) think I will now leave the pressure as it is. The gardener would not like a reduced pressure at the end of the garden.

Just have to ensure that she turns the tap off.