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Housing - Renovation: Attic Insulation - Party Wall of Mid Terrace

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  1.  
    What would be the preferred method of insulating the party wall? The house is mid terrace so I assume these walls need to be highly insulated.

    I assume the preferred method would be to stud the walls at 400 centres using 3x2 or 2x2? Insulate inbetween using PIR then insulate infront of the studs with further PIR?

    I wanted to keep the breast wall as a feature so to speak but not sure this is practical, just insulate over as above?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2014
     
    For a loft room?
  3.  
    yes Tony, for an attic conversion
  4.  
    With a cold void on the other side?
  5.  
    Well it would be the neighbours attic (not converted) so yes...
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2014
     
    Building regs will determine the minimum amount of insulation required, I always like to use a lot more than the minimum.
  7.  
    yes, but what method would you use?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2014
     
    Parge, sheet insulation plasterboard, composite sheets are a more expensive alternative.
  9.  
    Parge? As in render?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2014
     
    yes to stop thermal bypass and air leakage
  11.  
    Can't I just stud and insulate over, taping any joints?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 29th 2014
     
    yes not quite the best but pretty good.
  13.  
    Okay thanks
  14.  
    Vapour barrier?
  15.  
    I was assuming 'taping any joints' (if you assume perimeters too) *was* the VCL.
  16.  
    Ahh so "Sheet insulation" meant with foil backing or is XPS/PIR fine as is?...looking at doing something a bit similar myself - albeit the space on the other side is my own cold space. And you can't 'tape' as such composite boards (can you?), you have to rely on mastic and squirty foam.
  17.  
    yeah the tape and the fact the PIR is foil backed was going to be the VCL

    If I used 3" PIR on top of studs, what size studs would you recommend? and what size screws?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2014
     
    no studs, glue/goop/foam sheets to wall then fix through plasterboard with insulation fixings
  19.  
    Can you link me to said fixings please Tony?

    So basically dot and dab the boards even though foil backed?

    How would I run wires for sockets with no service gap behind boards?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 30th 2014
     
    Insulation is glued on to hold in place then sheets mechanically fixed over the top of it.

    dont buy them here but you can see them, I like ones with plastic nails. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=insulation+fixings+plastic&rlz=1C1GGGE_en-gbGB410GB410&oq=insulation+fixings&aqs=chrome.4.69i57j0l5.12739j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#q=insulation+fixings+plastic&tbm=shop

    Put sockets on the wall round the corner or in the partition then run across the bottom and up to a socket if necessary, or chase into wall horizontally or vertically behind insulation.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 1st 2014 edited
     
    Presumably it also needs to meet Part E sound? or is that only for new dwellings? I forget. I think it applies to a house being converted to flats.
  22.  
    This is said chimney wall...
  23.  
    Would it be sacrilege to insulate over?

    How about something like:
  24.  
    I may as well ask in this thread, how do I finish the insulation up to the ridge? Go flat or keep a 'point' but how would I fit a light?
  25.  
    Does your roof have a ridge-board? Most terraces do. If so, if you finish the roof up to the 'point', you will have no cross-ventilation. Bad.
  26.  
    Yeah there is a ridge board, I have got my 2" insulation cut to shape as a tight fit up against it, I am yet to put the 3"over it.

    Are you saying I should remove the 2" and say leave an inch gap under this board say?

    If so, do I still need 5" of PIR below the ridge board? I will lose a fair bit of height if so.

    Do I even need cross ventilation if the felt is breathable? Surely it just blows out through the felt?

    Thanks Nick
  27.  
    Cross-ventilation is essential. And yes, you do need to drop the ceiling. Just a tiny bit of flat would do.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2014
     
    Insulate it, yes it looks nice but it also let's in cold, will be a problem, a straight flat wall is likely easier to have as part of a room.
  29.  
    There are ridge tiles fitted with vents underneath,won't that suffice?

    I know you mentioned previously to 'dot and dab' say 3" PIR to the wall, in this instance due to the awkward shape would I be better off using:

    A: 3x2 stud work at 400 centres, insulate with 2" in between and then 2" on the front face? I could then screw the plasterboard straight on holding the insulation using 100mm drywall screws?
  30.  
    ''There are ridge tiles fitted with vents underneath,won't that suffice?''

    Maybe, but in my view, possibly not. IMO there is no substitute for good eaves-to-eaves cross-ventilation.

    On the pty wall point I think you did not mean me when you said:

    ''I know you mentioned previously to 'dot and dab' say 3" PIR to the wall...''

    I would virtually *never* encourage dot 'n' dab, and where I did, would qualify it to show that I really meant 'perimeter and stripe'.

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