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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2007
     
    After my diasaterous news about the nursery I need to think cost cutting

    Would straw bales be a cost effective way of insulationg my walls

    Can I put them outside the concrete block walls (to save space)

    How do I finish them off? Render?

    How do I do the edges for windows/doors/roof?

    Or are straw bales expensive?
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2007
     
    Hello Katy

    Amazon Nails do a download on straw bale building which may help:

    http://www.strawbalefutures.org.uk/

    Should be no reason you cant put them outside the block wall. Usually the finish is lime render but you can clad them in wood & in one famous instance in see through panels (this example was on Grand Designs and used in the Green Building Bible).

    S.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2007 edited
     
    Thanks I just missed their 10 minutes of free advise today...damn

    Never mind there is always next week

    I guess this should have been in Commercial
  1.  
    Putting the bales outside, you get a mix of high ins and thermal mass. Straw-bales are usually used inside (or indeed as the only walling material), so are fast recovery. I wonder how this sandwich would behave. Any thoughts, anyone?
  2.  
    I suspect it would perform rather well, having the benefits of both low u-value and high thermal mass. Also potentially airtight so less heat loss there as well. I will run a condensation risk analysis on a piece of software i have access to and let you know the result. Should be fine but interesting to check
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    How should I treat the inside wall - as it doesn't have a DPC??Will it affect the practicallity?

    No-one has said whether it is cheap or not...........

    When I was first looking at converting I was hoping to re-use the roof - as I now know I need a new roof, this becomes an option

    How wide is a straw bale?? How much extra does that add on to the roof trusses & will it be a great increase in the cost?
  3.  
    Treat the inside wall as normal - render/plaster finish is a matter of choice on masonry. Cost depends on choice of material, cement /sand cheapest, lime or clay slightly dearer.

    Straw bales will probably not work out cheaper than any other insulation material in this instance. Their cost advantage comes by using them 'stand alone'

    The cost of a straw bale itself is cheap, I have seen suggestions of anywhere between 50p and £2.50 each. I think the standard size is around 900mm long x 450mm wide x 300mm high
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    So that would add 900mm to the roof plus 1000mm for the over hang

    This would make the roof trusses 11.9m (I assume I'd buy 12m ones as I presume they come in standard lengths

    I am surprised we wouldn't need to damp proof the existing inside wall

    Inside I would be painting it (to save money)
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007 edited
     
    Not 900mm, 450mm. This is not a conventioanl construction however and I am only talking hypothetically. [not an expert in straw bale, just an admirer]

    Regarding trusses, they are made to measure by the manufacturer so if you want to go for this it is worth contacting them regarding structural support etc. Try your local builders merchant to find out who makes trusses locally.

    Whether you need a damp proof course on the existing wall depends whether there is one there allready.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Oh I thought 450mm each side plus 500mm overhang ech side?

    So I will need a dpc (what's best to fit retrospectively?)
  4.  
    Sorry, you are right 450mm each side.

    Not an easy decision as to which type of DPC. Silicone injection may be one way . Osmosis is another method which uses a titanium wire fixed around the perimeter. A very low electric current is run through the wire which keeps the damp at bay. It's a long time since I'v seen this and I don't know how much electricity it uses. Anyone?
  5.  
    Mike, Do you know of any electro-osmotic dpc which were unequivocally proven to work? I used to work for a (largely refurb) hsg ass'n, and we had anumber of htese, and they all seemed hopeless, ultimately being replaced with silicone. Solvents in silicone were horrible, though. We used at one point to cut out and inset slate, but it's wildly costly unless you do it yourself.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Silly question

    If you cut out (the mortor - I guess) between the blocks to put slate in.......what stops the wall falling over?
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Would it be cheaper to knock down the wall & start again?
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Also what do I put under the starw bales?
  6.  
    Nick, No I don't know if they are proven to work. I learned my original trade [plastering] with a damp proofing firm in the 80's. They used osmosis on random stone walls where silicone injection was considered hit and miss because of the voids. I haven't seen it for years so maybe you are right and it does't work?

    Katymac, I think you need the Green Building Bible vol 1. All is reavealed there for a mere tenner!
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Hmmm....but would I understand it??

    I wonder if they have one at the library?
  7.  
    I am sure you would understand it. Straw bale for example is covered in great detail by people who have built their own. I have ordered five copies for our Library and we are still waiting [probably because they are selling as quickly as they can be printed] Not worth the library fines anyway when you can get it for a tenner!
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    It is very readable and yes I think you would understand it.

    Vol 2 is more technical.

    Surely a dpc could be injected fairly easily - you can even hire the equipment to do it yourself.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Really??

    Go on then I'll order one.....maybe

    Um Nigel I don't think so - Tiling & painting, Flatpack & wallpaper hanging maybe......anything more power tool orientated and it's a non-starter
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Should i buy both (in case my builder needs to understand it too)?
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    Yes if you can find one that can be bothered to read it.

    Very good reference at the very least.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2007
     
    sorted
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2007
     
    So I'd guess I need about 500 straw bales.....at £2 each that about £1000 for my insuilation

    Plus labour plus however you fix them

    Then I have to add the render - how much would 150 sqm of render cost? plus labour
  8.  
    Katy, the fact that you only cut out about 1ft - 18" at a time, then slate and mortar up, then move on, makes sure the wall doesn't fall down, though I knew of one builders' labourer who forgot this! Nick
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 5th 2007
     
    OK

    I was talking to my dad & he think cold bridge conmdensation will be my main problem (he doesn't beleive in rising damp:confused:)

    He want to insulate the floor slab from the wall with 1 inch of insulation round the edge (which would be covered by a skirting board)
    He has been looking at the booklet from Amazon nails and thinks that if I use Turbo blocks as my plinth (they will provide insulation at the base) possibley on gravel - to drain away any moisture from the straw bales

    He thinks the internal wall will not be intrinsically(sp?) damp so would not need a dpc

    What do you think?
  9.  
    Agree with edge insulation. Re dpc to exg conc wall: You will get away without one if it is not damp! Thousands of Victorian builders can't be wrong. (But sometimes they were! Whether the building insp'r will agree is unclear.
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2007
     
    I have been in touch with Amazon Nails......now I'm waiting
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2007
     
    Mike you offered to check the condensation risk analysis....did you have time?
    •  
      CommentAuthorKatymac
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2007
     
    My books arrived btw (psst Am I supposed to read them??)
   
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