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Housing - Renovation: Manifold Plumbing System and Pressuried cylinder

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  1.  
    • CommentAuthorsteveray
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2021
     
    I am renovating a bungalow and want to do manifold plumbing system.
    I have a void where I plan to install the manifold(s) which is fairly central to all the water outlets and the cylinder
    I am planning to install a large gledhill 250L pressurised cylinder as there will be 4 showers in the house.
    I sell to plumbers merchants so I will be able to get the stuff at the right price.
    Can anyone suggest where I could get a detailed plumbing layout drawing done with all the physics etc taken care of! For instance am I right in thinking since it is pressurised that all the pipe runs going from the manifold can all be 16mm multilayer pipe rather than 22mm and 15mm copper as it used to be.
    Also thinking of using the press fitting which seem to becoming very popular in the trade.
    Is it significant if the Cylinder is installed on the at floor level on above in the roofspace which would save valuable space downstairs.

    Appreciate any comments or suggestions.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2021
     
    Posted By: steverayI have a void where I plan to install the manifold(s)

    I can't tell from that description but ideally you want the manifold to be easily accessible both so you can operate the isolation valves easily if required and also so you can see and repair any problem, which is most likely to occur at joints. In our system there was a convenient space on the wall over the tank.

    Can anyone suggest where I could get a detailed plumbing layout drawing done with all the physics etc taken care of!

    Plumber and/or house designer?

    For instance am I right in thinking since it is pressurised that all the pipe runs going from the manifold can all be 16mm multilayer pipe rather than 22mm and 15mm copper as it used to be. Also thinking of using the press fitting which seem to becoming very popular in the trade.

    All our long runs are done in 15 mm JG PB. One run to each room for H and for C and then spilt to the various items in the room. Even the bath. Works fine for us.

    Is it significant if the Cylinder is installed on the at floor level on above in the roofspace which would save valuable space downstairs.

    Not quite sure what you mean there. Bear in mind that a 250 L tank of water weighs a quarter of a ton; make sure there is sufficient support. It should be within the heated envelope if possible and with extra insulation as well.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeJul 2nd 2021
     
    I would always try and get any heat storage tank on the ground floor in the centre of the house. Its very difficult to properly insulate a tank, pipework, pumps, valves etc so with a central ground floor plumbing set up any loss is wholly used.
  4.  
    We fitted a Genvex Combi 180LS which had a 180 litre tank heated by an EASHP. I fitted a manifold plumbing system using JG Speedfit with a separate 15mm pipe for each appliance. The pipework from the Genvex was 22mm.
      Manifolds small.jpg
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeJul 2nd 2021 edited
     
    If you need to save space and can afford the (significant) cost, then you might want to consider Sunamp units: https://sunamp.com/

    They also contribute very little to summer overheating, unlike a 250L water tank.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeJul 2nd 2021
     
    Being a risk averse person I would not put a cylinder above ground floor level the consequence of a leak could be disastrous . Are you doing the work yourself? a pressurised cylinder needs to be done by G3 competent person. Gledhill also do vented cylinders with pressurised hot water via heat exchanger this is what I have done but included solar thermal as well. I have fed via manifolds made up myself by joining together JG valves to make a manifold and 15 mm pipe is more than adequate but fed the manifolds via 22 pipe. Where is your boiler/ heat source, ideally needs to be as close as possible to the cylinder.

    Here is a link to a really good source of information to design your own system I used it on my build.

    http://www.johnhearfield.com/Water/Water_in_pipes.htm

    and here

    https://www.aecb.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/1503_AECB_Water_Vol_1_V3.pdf

    Water standards see sec 3 and 4 for flow rates to different "appliances"

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