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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorclawlor
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2015
     
    We're renovating a double upper which comprises the entire first floor and attic of a Georgian house. We've done some heat loss calcs and are in the process of doing a SAP calc. So far with the heat loss calcs we estimate that we will need approx 22kW boiler which the results of the SAP will hopefully clarify. We are hoping to use a thermal store and I was wondering if anyone has experience of how this would effect the boiler size? If the thermal store reduces boiler cycling and heat up time we therefore believe that a smaller boiler will be required although I can't seem to find a definitive answer to this on the manufacturers website.

    Also I was wondering how the boiler should be sized for dhw load? -I've been told to allow 3kW for heating water.

    We are spec'ing & installing the heating system from scratch so it's an opportunity to get the most efficient system possible for the flat.
    Thanks C
  1.  
    Posted By: clawlorit's an opportunity to get the most efficient system possible for the flat.
    Is there no way you can reduce the huge heat load - that would be by far the most efficient starting point - fabric first!
    • CommentAuthorclawlor
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2015
     
    Yes, the attic is a conversion and we are insulating to at least current building regs ie .13 for flat roof and .11 for pitched roof. We are draught proofing and putting slimlite glazing in which should bring windows to about 2w/m2K. I've taken a u value for the existing rubble stone walls on the first floor of about 1.3. We cannot insulate the walls generally (Grade b listed) except in one small area. Is 22kW quite a large boiler then? The total floor area is about 190m2 and the ceiling height is about 3m with 3.4 in main living room, so we are heating large spaces.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2015
     
    Posted By: clawlorWe cannot insulate the walls generally (Grade b listed) except in one small area.
    Does grade B mean you can't do internal wall insulation (IWI)? Genuine question.

    From the heights quoted it sounds like they're large rooms so the floor area loss would presumably be less of a problem than in some cases.
    • CommentAuthorclawlor
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2015
     
    Yes and we don't really want to because we have original features that we would like to keep. Maybe we will consider other measures, not sure yet. Overall I'm quite happy with our approach to fabric, it will perform well for that type of building.
    We are quite lost re size of boiler and how having a thermal store would affect boiler size.
  2.  
    what sort of boiler is it? At this point from the description of the property I would assume gas!

    22kW is not a big boiler, just that these days a heat load of 22kW is considered quite a lot after a referb., but given your description of the building perhaps its understandable.

    A thermal store (TS)won't reduce the boiler size much it will just even out the heat load seen by the boiler, you may get a reduction in boiler size (a bit) but that would need a large TS. e.g. a TS large enough to run most of the evening heat load with the boiler running as heat input, but overall a deficit in available heat with the boiler then running through the night playing catchup ready for the morning higher load would give you the chance to have a smaller boiler. But the cost difference in boiler size won't come anywhere near helping to pay for the TS.

    (For wood burning you need a bigger boiler with a TS as you batch burn to carry through until the boiler is lit again):

    I'm not an expert on gas heating but I would have thought a DHW tank run from the (gas) boiler with the heating directly off the boiler might be a better option. If I have got this wrong - someone shoot me down (gently).

    Again if its gas a 22kW boiler is a bit small with out a DHW tank or otherwise if you have a TS plus heat exchanger (=cost) to supply the DHW then as far as I can remember 3kW is a standard assumption for DHW (Again someone shoot me down (gently) if I'm out of touch here)

    You can do away with tanks altogether with a combi boiler (again assuming gas) but here a 24kW or 28kW is usual if there is only one bathroom in use at a time.

    A lot of modern boilers (gas) will modulate so this will tend to avoid short cycling.
    • CommentAuthorclawlor
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2015
     
    Thanks Peter, it is a gas boiler.
    We will have a large TS, we think about 280/300l with an internal heat exchanger. One of the benefits is that we won't need a separate DHW tank.
    We weren't too concerned with the initial cost of purchase but we would like to keep the running costs down and getting an efficient boiler will probably help with this.
    I'm still trying to get my head around how the TS works. I thought that because the thermal store sustains the heat the boiler wouldn't have to work as hard. I've just heard the SAP takes account of thermal stores so I hope we get a clearer picture from this.
    We've already discounted the combi because there will be too many showers, baths, sinks etc
    Many thanks
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2015
     
    Posted By: clawlorWe will have a large TS, we think about 280/300l

    300 L is a small thermal store, even if just used for DHW!

    If your heat load is 22 kW you won't get boiler cycling!

    Posted By: clawlorwe are insulating to at least current building regs

    That is the absolute minimum that you are legally required to do. You have no option about that. This is the green building forum where people are generally trying to do a lot better.

    I would suggest taking a pause and doing a lot more reading around the subject before finalising your ideas.
    • CommentAuthorJonG
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    Condensing gas boilers are not necessarily a good choice with a TS. In order to use a TS for DHW and SH it needs to be maintained at a high temperature usually requiring a flow off the boiler of 80 degrees, even with a 20 degree differential this results in operating temperatures above dew point which means that it barely condenses.

    A larger TS with a heat pump sized plate and pump can be used for DHW with a lower input temperature but would sized at upwards of 800 litres bare minimum in a property like yours.

    As you have gas a better more efficient design would be to choose a boiler that can have different flow temps to SH and DHW. Use a heat pump cylinder and store at 52 degrees, with a weekly/2-weekly pasteurisation cycle and oversize the rads to encourage condensing at all times.

    DHW is on a priority basis and the rad circuit would be linked through load compensating controls like Opentherm to vary the flow temperature according to demand and ambients, electronic rad control can pinch a few further savings if costs allow.

    Boiler cycling is usually as a result of using an oversized boiler that can't modulate low enough to cover the low heat demands in the shoulder months.

    Some boilers now have a 10-1 turn down ratio though so with careful choice it can be eliminated or a small buffer in the return can be employed if the chosen boiler doesn't ramp far enough.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    clawlor, SAP does indeed allow for TS (the latest version of SAP) however it will not demonstrate any great benefits, if you are hoping for some?
    As has been said above, insulate insulate insulate to reduce your CH demand where ever possible! Of course no amount of insulation will reduce your DHW demand....
    Good luck..:smile:
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    Personally if you don’t need to run more than one shower I would just have a simple gas combi boiler with flue heat recover. This is the most efficient way to generate DWH from gas.

    The thermals store will cost money and I don’t see how it will benefit you, most likely it will just stop your boiler condensing.

    Spend the saved money on better insulation and oversized radiators so the boiler spends as much time as possible condensing. Check that your chosen thermostat does TPI unless you are going high end with weather compensation or load compensation.
  3.  
    Posted By: ringiPersonally if you don’t need to run more than one shower

    One shower at a time that is
    However if you do need to run 2 showers at once then you can get combies up to 40kW but you need to make sure that they modulate down low enough to avoid short cycling on the CH
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    A TPI thermostat helps a lot with reducing short cycling, as it will predict how much heat needs to be put into the home and then run the boiler for a few minutes out of every 10 minutes. This lets the water in the radiators cool before the next run of the boiler.
    • CommentAuthorclawlor
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    Thanks JonG, that's an interesting option, using the heat pump cylinder. I will have a look at manufacturers information. I've also heard that the boiler can be set to run at lower temps for longer periods but then I don't know if this would provide enough heat to the TS. We can't have a boiler that doesn't run in condensing mode!
    We initially liked the TS because we would have the option of future PV.
    Thanks ringi, TPI thermostat it will be!
  4.  
    Posted By: clawlorWe can't have a boiler that doesn't run in condensing mode!

    To be pedantic - you can. All boilers in the UK now have to be condensing boilers. However that means the boilers must have the ability to condense the flue gasses. Whether the boiler does or not condense is a function of the temperature of the return flow. If the temp. of the ret. flow is too high then there will be no condensing. (hence JonGs' comment above regarding condensing and TSs)
    I suspect that most of the condensing boilers sold in the UK rarely get in to condensing mode because
    1) they are installed on old systems that require high flow temps. (rads sized for a 70 - 80 deg flow with a 15 -20 deg drop) and
    2)the owners /operators don't understand (or care about) the requirements to get a condensing boiler into condensing mode.
    • CommentAuthorJonG
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    Hi Clawlor, with the suggestions I have put forward you would do away with the TS, it is an expense you don't need and will have standing losses to account for.

    PV can feed the cylinder far more effectively by heating water over the summer when generation is plentiful, it is pointless loading a heating TS over the summer, it won't retain the heat long enough and in teh winter the contribution will be neglible.

    TPI is not as effective as Opentherm, and can if set up incorrectly badly mess with a modern modulating boiler, have a look at OT first but get an installer that understands both.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    clawlor, if you want to criticise me, I'd rather you did it in public than whisper it at me.

    I did read the subject and I posted my thoughts about the thermal store and boiler cycling, which appear to coincide with everybody elses. My other remarks also coincide with what others are saying and are, I believe sensible in view of your current demonstrated lack of knowledge.
    • CommentAuthorclawlor
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary</cite><blockquote><cite>Posted By: clawlor</cite>We can't have a boiler that doesn't run in condensing mode!</blockquote>
    To be pedantic - you can. All boilers in the UK now have to be condensing boilers.

    I know, I just meant it would be pointless/inefficient to not run in condensing mode. I've heard 20-30% less efficient.
    • CommentAuthorclawlor
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    Thanks JonG I'll have a look at OT
    • CommentAuthorclawlor
    • CommentTimeDec 18th 2015
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: djh</cite><blockquote><cite>Posted By: clawlor</cite>We will have a large TS, we think about 280/300l</blockquote>
    300 L is a small thermal store, even if just used for DHW!

    If your heat load is 22 kW you won't get boiler cycling!

    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: clawlor</cite>we are insulating to at least current building regs</blockquote>
    That is the absolute minimum that you are legally required to do. You have no option about that. This is the green building forum where people are generally trying to do a lot better.

    I would suggest taking a pause and doing a lot more reading around the subject before finalising your ideas.

    We're aware of our obligations under the building regs and to the wider environment.
    You should read the subject of the discussion and the question!!
    • CommentAuthorGotanewlife
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2015 edited
     
    Crikey chaps calm down.

    Clawlor, on this Forum people only want to help but that doesn't necessarily mean answering the question you asked, especially as in this case, it appears that the question is the wrong one. Speaking from personal experience that can be very frustrating, it IS challenging, maybe it forces you to look at your plans from first principles all over again, maybe change things you were committed to doing. But always with the full support of everyone on here - even those who are more cutting than others.

    You can't get away from the simple fact that insulating to current bldg regs is simply inadequate and an anathema to people on this forum - you are going to get a reaction to that no matter how you try and justify it. You are required to insulate, ie you don't have exemptions for some of your fabrics, you are intending to insulate, ie intending to meet your legal obligations, so why not insulate to a much higher level in order to reduce your heating load, save you money in the long term, and serve the wider environment - if you did perhaps your question would then change..... or maybe not but then people would answer your question.

    Reading through slightly slower than I did before - a point worth clarifying (for me at least) what is your estimated heat load, I was assuming that the need for a 22kW heat source meant you had a 22kW heat load, perhaps not. To put it into perspective I have a solid stone walled house with a reasonably well insulated roof but only one room of the 3 floor, 450m2 house with IWI and I reckon I have a heat load of 20kW plus or minus DHW.

    I am no expert but near as I can tell, it looks like the answer to the question "What size TS do I need?" is that you don't need a TS. Me I have a 2500 ltr TS with a WBS, inside the 2500 ltr tank is another tank for DHW that is on its own much bigger than your proposed TS, of course I batch burn but you can see why everyone is perplexed.
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2015
     
    Clawlor – we have a 24kW wood pellet boiler with a 300 litre TS (which was what was recommended by the installer of our heating system). Our floor area is 180 sq metres. We do not have gas where we live - it’s either oil or wood here. In our experience the 300 litre TS is far too small – the only benefit it brings is that when the C/H comes on we have a rapid initial “burst” of heat whilst the boiler is getting up a head of steam. The wood pellet boiler takes about 20 minutes or so to get up to the operating temperature of 70C. The heat content of the TS full of 65C water would be exhausted in about 30 minutes if the boiler was not on.

    I am no expert but I would say as you have main gas, I can’t see any point in having a thermal store at all.
  5.  
    We have an Eco Angus Orligno 200 40KW log gasification boiler paired with a 3,000 litre Akvaterm thermal store. Eco Angus says a rough rule of thumb to calculate the thermal store size is 50 to 75 litres for every 1KW boiler output (I think there's a post on here somewhere by Winterbourne (director or Eco Angus)). In your case your boiler at 22KW dictates a TS of 1,100 to 1,650 litres.

    Jeff B's comment on his tank being too small is a typical sizing mistake made by many installers.

    I'm assuming that a Buffer tank is slightly different to a thermal store in that it is a smaller capacity just to iron out the cycling you mention as opposed to a larger thermal store for longer term heat storage.
  6.  
    Posted By: JonGSome boilers now have a 10-1 turn down ratio though so with careful choice it can be eliminated or a small buffer in the return can be employed if the chosen boiler doesn't ramp far enough.
    JonG, I know of the Geminox gas boiler that runs down to 1kW (can run UFH off it directly), but what others are about?
    • CommentAuthorJonG
    • CommentTimeApr 19th 2016
     
    Vokera and Ravenheat have 10-1 ratios and Viessmann are bringing out a 19-1 option soon. Not sure about running UFH direct off a condenser most need a 20 degree delta but UFH is usually 7?
  7.  
    Thanks. Vokera and Ravenheat? Mmmm maybe not. Geminox were pushing their boiler as a UFH boiler. They worked very well. The boiler only up went to around 10kW - modulating from 1kW to 10kW, so no cycling. I saw one operate on UFH only, directly, no rads or water heating. It only had one pump, normal 22mm zone valves for each UFH zone (I think they were motor on motor off; mo-mo) and a tamperproof high limit pipe stat set to 55C. Boiler was set to 40-45C, so was highly efficient at all times and modulated right down to 1kW. Each zone had a wall stat. It worked well. Very cheap to install and very, very simple. The DHW and upstairs rads were supplied by a 36kW Intergas combi. No stored water and two neat white boxes on the wall. A very simple, highly effective and reliable system. Far cheaper than a large thermal store or unvented cylinder. They had only one bathroom and shower room so no large DHW needs.

    I am sure the 19-1 Viessmann will not be cheap.
    • CommentAuthorJonG
    • CommentTimeApr 19th 2016
     
    we use Intergas almost exclusively and fit small buffers of around 100 litres if the load is lower than min ramp down although on mine i have adjusted the min fan speed and got the output slightly lower than book value. we also use open therm or weather comp on every install to modulate flow temps
  8.  
    Is this buffer on UFH? Open Therm and weather compensation is greatly misunderstood and ignored in the UK. Domestic plumbers do not get it, or understand it. It is not their game as drains and the likes are a world away to heating with its electronic control systems. Hence we are way behind the Continent where thermal storage, weather compensation, Open Therm, buffer tanks, low-loss headers, etc, are the norm. Vokera even sell a low loss header and call it a hydraulic separator.

    Intergas are great boilers and built like tanks - and well priced. I may be having one fitted in my place within the next months, the 36kW model. The DHW output on the 40kW version is the same as the 36kW. Probably no weather compensation connected as I am having a Kickspace fitted and they need higher temps to operate.
    • CommentAuthorJonG
    • CommentTimeApr 19th 2016
     
    if the ufh is fully zoned we use a buffer if the lowest modulation is above potential demand, we would always use a LLH or buffer anyway between a condenser and ufh due to the disparate flow rates.

    Shame about the kickspace is there no other alternative? You could look at Viessmann that allows connection to mixing sets that can have separate curves per zone, but think that is only the 200 range.

    We use a lot of headers on systems that have undersized pipework, differing flow rates across different zones etc. Closely spaced tees are also a simpler and more cost effective option but you don't get the sludge removal and air separation that you get from a header/buffer.
  9.  
    Posted By: JonGCondensing gas boilers are not necessarily a good choice with a TS. In order to use a TS for DHW and SH it needs to be maintained at a high temperature usually requiring a flow off the boiler of 80 degrees, even with a 20 degree differential this results in operating temperatures above dew point which means that it barely condenses.

    Jon I totally disagree with this, this sounds like an old wives myth. ;)
    A number of points:

    - having a tall thin cylinder (excellent stratification),
    - a sizeable DHW plate heat exchanger with a modulating DHW pump or a Danfoss modulating valve to ensure the - return water into the cylinder is of a low temperature
    - CH taken from an internal coil (prevents sludge build up as well),
    - two stats to also prevent boiler cycling.
    - spreaders on the boiler flow and return into the cylinder preventing stratification disturbance.

    These will ensure the bottom of the cylinder is quite cool. Then condensing boilers work very well. In most of the reheat of the cylinder the boiler's return pipe will be receiving low temperature water.

    The great thing about a thermal store is that high pressure water can be obtained from a low pressure cylinder. They are a great, and safer, alternative to an unvented cylinder. That beside the other advantage of being a buffer if CH is taken from the store, a superb neutral point, eliminating boiler cycling, etc.

    Also many thermal stores operate between 70-75C. I have seen one operate at 65C using a large DHW plate heat exchanger. A well designed thermal store will work very well with a condensing boiler.

    Another good point about a thermal store is that it gives not a hoot how big or small the boiler is. A large boiler can heat the store (very quick) and still work to optimum efficiency and not cycle. I know of a 50kW boiler fitted to a store that only needed around 18kW. The boiler was a cheap deal. I have also seen an 'undersized' boiler work very well on a store. There was a large extension (no new baths, so DHW the same). I said connect the extension to the existing heating system and see how it works. If it is cannot cope then replace the boiler only. It coped - just. The buffer aspects of the store made it work, always storing heat to be drawn out when needed. The boiler worked hard though. But when the house was up to temperature the store and boiler ticked over. What also helped was that the heating was was zoned, with rarely the upstairs on at the same time as downstairs for long periods. Parts of the extension were also zoned and switched out when not needed.

    Thermal stores are not just for those doing solar and solid fuel stoves.
   
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