Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
Posted By: tonyMake sure the sill works, the further in the more protected they are. I aim for mid point of insulation, certainly in the insulation zone, need to mitigate thermal bridging, what is your cladding?The cladding is larch boards.
Posted By: tonyAre they Velfac? If so design in sash site line gaps.all openings square and true, so I'll follow your lead on fitting tolerances.
Are openings square, level and plumb. I would do 15 off width and 10 off height for normal windows but I am brave, most would take off 20mm cowboys take off more than that!
Posted By: woodgnomeMine advised against foam around frames
Posted By: djhPosted By: woodgnomeMine advised against foam around frames
Foam isn't squishy; at least most aren't. The normal type is quite capable of bending frames and/or studs. There are some specialist airtight low-expansion foams that would work.
Posted By: gravelldHow well does flexifoam cope with the surfaces pulling away from each other? The YouTube video gives a great demo of how it copes with compression.
Posted By: gravelldYeah it does look neat. But I wonder about the surfaces pulling away. Probably not something you will have in your case. But for instance when filling plasterboard or joinery gaps, it could happen.
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