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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


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    • CommentAuthorgeegee
    • CommentTimeOct 9th 2007
     
    Firstly, can anyone explain why a damp proof membrane is necessary under a water-piped underfloor heating system? My architect is insisting it is not necessary but all other websites I have consulted on construction tecniques seem to include one as standard, above the subfloor but below the insulation surrounding the pipes.

    Secondly, whats the alternative to PVC - is there a more ecological option or is this just one of those things we just have to accept for practical reasons? And what about the material for the pipes? (oh dear, this being green can be very challenging for us novices).

    For interest, my system will be powered by biomass from locally sourced waste material, the insulation is natural compressed cork board topped by a layer of concrete (oops) and the finish either local stone or FSC-certified engineered oak board. It would seem a shame to have to use polluting plastic for the DPM, although I understand there isn't an alternative to the concrete layer over the pipes.

    Any advice would be much appreciated.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeOct 9th 2007
     
    Putting in UFH is a big investment, adding a plastic DPC is adding a few percent and gives a big feel good factor.
    The added heat from your pipes will cause any water in the under floor substrate to vapourise more easily, it then will migrate throught the UFH screed and when this hot air with its added burden of water vapour hits your cold window panes it will condense and you will get water running down them. There are no materials that are as water proof (and cheap) as plastic. You could paint the underfloor substrate with a bitumen based paint, this will require several coats and still won't be as impermeable as a piece of plastic. sheet.
    Frank
  1.  
    It's certainly not necessary in a solid-wall construction. I've laid plenty of limecrete floors - with UFH - in rubble-stone houses and not yet fitted a DPC, or used any concrete. You can just as easily use limcrete over the pipes.
    • CommentAuthorMartin 10
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2007
     
    If you are going to use a DPM, there are a couple on the market made from recycled plastic which makes them a better choice.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2007
     
    In floors I always think that there should be a vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation. But with solid floors and UHF this may not be a problem however with suspended floors it may well be?
    • CommentAuthorgeegee
    • CommentTimeOct 12th 2007
     
    Many thanks for all your responses - I guess there isn't a universal answer as it depends on each individual case, but I think, on balance, I should use a DPM - the migration of water vapour Chucky mentions would be a concern as the water table is quite high in our river valley and the ground becomes pretty saturated in winter (also we have large areas of glazing). I will however, investigate the possibilities of recycled plastic and limecrete.
    Regards,
    geegee
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