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Housing - Renovation: What should I replace my bathroom walls with?

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    My bathroom was put in by a previous owner. I removed the wallpaper and found that it's just plywood on battens onto brick underneath. Inevitably, the plywood got damp and is mouldy, so has to go. This will take us back to brick (1930s brick cavity walls). I'd appreciate any recommendations on what materials to ask the builder to replace the walls with (I'm quite new to all this).

    My current thought is recycled plastic battens, PIR insulation, green plasterboard, plaster, and tiles or plastic panels in the splash areas (I prefer the look of tiles, but in practice we rarely clean the grout and it gets manky). But open to other options.

    My main concern is minimising damp and mould, but cost and looks are also factors.

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2023
     
    I would miss out the plastic (thermal bridging) battens, Fully foam on the insulation boards PIR or EPS as thick as you can

    Then miss out the plasterboard too where you are having panels which could be most of it.

    I like failsafe shower - no possibility of it leaking even if silicone fails.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2023
     
    In the wet areas I'd either go for large format tiles, i.e less grout, and/or esp. in the shower, plywood with a melamine laminate coating both sides. If you do go for the sheet material, get the full range of quality anodized aluminium finishing trims. IMO they make the job look so much neater. The ease with which you can squeegee the surface is great, and keeps it looking good.
  4.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>I would miss out the plastic (thermal bridging) battens, Fully foam on the insulation boards PIR or EPS as thick as you can

    Then miss out the plasterboard too where you are having panels which could be most of it.

    I like failsafe shower - no possibility of it leaking even if silicone fails.</blockquote>

    Thanks Tony. As in attach the insulation boards directly to the wall using foam?

    I think I know what you mean by a failsafe shower (a shower that's a single unit) but I can't find anything online using that term. Any idea where I'd look for one please?
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      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2023
     
    We use Bushboard Nuance panels in all our showers and are very pleased with them. A variety of designs and surfaces on a foam XPS core. T&G glued together panels. No leaks, nothing to rot. No 'trims' needed. Panels can just be glued on to whatever substrate you have.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2023
     
    Usually the problems with showers are where they join floor, tray or bath.

    Wetroom floor if taken up behind the wall lining the auto failsafe join, likewise trays with upstands

    I despair of baths - why dint they have upstands, the best I can do is suggest is the process in my book - the adventures of an ecobuilder, how to fit a bath
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      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2023
     
    Posted By: tonyWetroom floor if taken up behind the wall lining the auto failsafe join, likewise trays with upstands
    Second that, we have both. Wetroom floor is 'hospital' vinyl, chosen for grip and installed by a commercial firm. Excellent job.

    I think the problem with baths is how many variations they'd have to have if they had upstands. Left handed and right handed, then one, two or three upstands. I just put the Nuance on the wall, pushed the bath up against it with a compressible seal between the two and then sealed the top with silicone. If any drops do get through I expect they'll just evaporate on the floor.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2023 edited
     
    Danny, select 'html' and your quotes will show correctly.

    I'm with Tony, foam on the insulation (as thick as you can) and seal the edges - really important - don't want damp air in behind. Depending on how square the wall is, you might consider a thin coat of plaster to level and square it off.

    Then use bathroom panels as the finished layer.

    I'll also agree, I use low rise shower trays. fitted first, seal to the wall, then panels again sealed.

    I will also agree, why do they not have an upstand on the wall side. The answer is, of course, they are not all fitted the same way so upstands would increase the different versions.
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2023
     
    Thirded. Glued on PIR/PUR, then glued bathroom vinyl panels, or if doing tiles, cementboard backer and tiles.
    We've been stuck at the 'glued on PUR' silver-foil bathroom stage for about 10 years here. Really must finish it off...
  10.  
    I'd do a lime parge coat on the brickwork too, to reduce the risk of air movement behind the insulation, though the full-perimeter adhesive beads suggested would work too. I just like full coats.
    • CommentAuthorLF
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2023
     
    There are different vinyl panels. Some stronger than others. Look for the good rigid think ones.
    We have found them excellent over last 3 years. With no insulation walls now much warmer.

    We have a shower bath that is an all in unit with sides, and I have put a good extractor on the roof of it, to take the moisture away. (Locate fan in steamiest area)

    It is a 50s house which had always struggled with condensaton and mold on tiles. Now it is fine.

    I echo Tony's concern over sealing around baths, our old one was way too flexible and it took many attempts to properly seal.

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