Tue, 19 Dec 2023 07:08:43 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302194#Comment_302194 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302194#Comment_302194 Wed, 28 Jun 2023 16:39:27 +0100 ballen https://www.tuin.co.uk/Aiste-Log-Cabin-5-x-3m.html). It hadn't been particularly well looked after, guttering had only been installed on the front and that was discharging straight onto the oversized concrete slab.

Having sat in a puddle of water for a number of years, the floor was completely rotten, the walls on one side are starting to go - the whole thing has dropped on the left hand side, causing the front wall to bow.

I'd like to try and save it, if possible - my idea was to jack up the wall that's failing, cut a foot or so off from the bottom and build a dwarf wall from engineering brick to sit it back down on. I plan on replacing the floor with a floating floor i.e. glued tongue and grove chipboard over celotex.

We're not entirely sure what we'll be using the space for - perhaps purely a summer house/games room or possibly as a home office. This got me thinking about insulating the structure, such that it might be useable all year round.

Given that its looking a little tired externally, the idea of installing EPS EWI and rendering is appealing, I wondered if anyone had any thoughts on this given the structure. The manufactures suggest things should not be fixed to the walls without allowing for seasonal movement of the 'logs' - I don't know how much this would be reduced by the installation of EWI. I'm also wondering if its a terrible idea as far as fire rating goes.

It seems most manufactures insulated by battening internally (on slotted brackets), filling with mineral wool and adding a VCL before cladding with wood (although I suspect this could be plasterboard if desired) and i suspect this might be a more sensible route.

Either way I would appreciate any thoughts]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302217#Comment_302217 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302217#Comment_302217 Fri, 30 Jun 2023 13:29:21 +0100 owlman When these interlocking T&G type sheds are built they often use long screws, screwing each board to the one below as you build. Assuming you manage to raise the shed you may also need something like a reciprocating saw to separate the bottom rotten stuff.
Before you start you'll also most likely have to brace the walls to keep the shed rigid.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302220#Comment_302220 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302220#Comment_302220 Fri, 30 Jun 2023 14:30:26 +0100 fostertom Posted By: owlmanbrace the wallsdiagonally in their vertical plane, but also criss-cross in horizontal plane at eave level and lower, near floor level.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302234#Comment_302234 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302234#Comment_302234 Sat, 01 Jul 2023 09:00:09 +0100 Jonti I have never had to add extra bracing though it is a good idea to put solid support under the building during the process as a safety should one of the jacks slip.

Sorry if this is not so clear but it is difficult to describe exactly without being longwinded.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302242#Comment_302242 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17883&Focus=302242#Comment_302242 Sat, 01 Jul 2023 16:44:17 +0100 revor