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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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Products: Plywood worktop?

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    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2015
     
    How would a plywood kitchen worktop perform? Not directly around the sink, but in the prep area between sink and hob. If finished properly (with what? Osmo oil?) and not subjected directly to knives and heat, could it last well?

    Understood that there are lots of low-maintenance alternatives out there, but I like the surface appearance and slim profile. And that it's not 'fancy'. As an alternative, how thin can solid wood worktops be?
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2015
     
    I think it depends on the quality of the ply as to whether the surface will last/look good, regarding the thickness it depends on the supporting structure .
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2015 edited
     
    High grade Birch ply may be a go-er, I've used it for carcase structure where the edges were planed and left visible as a design feature, but not worktops.
    You can get "technical laminated panels" in all sorts of species and thicknesses. You can also get laminated standard worktops in numerous species in 27mm thickness maybe even thinner from some suppliers. However 27mm is fairly thin and you could also put a rebate on the underside of the front edge to give the illusion of thinner if that's what you like.
    Something like laminated oak worktop would be a much better bet than any ply IMO, and possibly cheaper in the long run.

    e.g.http://www.worktop-express.co.uk/wood_worktops/oak_3M_620_27mm_worktop.html
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2015
     
    what sort of area are you looking to cover with worktop?
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2015
     
    1800 x 700mm.

    I've seen it used in house in Australia, even in an area with an undermounted sink. Their thinking was that it would discolour with time, but this would be considered patina. I don't mind patina of this sort, but I wouldn't want it to delaminate.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2015
     
    There was one of the Grand Design houses with a plywood kitchen, I think - might be worth looking at that?
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeJul 19th 2015 edited
     
    As Owlman says birch may well work. It is water proof and has a good quality egde that can be left exposed. Down side is thin face veneeer. How about bamboo ply? http://www.mosobamboosurfaces.co.uk/products/sections/panels-and-veneers/solid-panels/solid-bamboo-panels
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeJul 19th 2015
     
    Bamboo ply might be a go-er. Thanks for the suggestion.

    My thinking is to have the worktop in the same material as the cabinet fronts so it is more furniture-y and less kitchen-y (since it is open plan to the living area). I like birch ply and was intending to use that for the fronts. Maybe I should look at a paler wood like sycamore for the worktop as I don't want to worry about plywood damage (as opposed to patina!). The front edge could be rebated as owlman suggest to make it look slimmer.

    Ho hum, will keep googling for images...
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 19th 2015
     
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeJul 19th 2015
     
    sounds like a bit of a fool's errand tbh, when you look at the massive variety of wood work tops one can get, that are dedicated work tops..
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeJul 19th 2015
     
    Yes, I probably will end up with a conventional worktop. Maple or beech.

    But call me sad, I like honest basic construction products like plywood, blockboard and hardboard. :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 19th 2015
     
    The problem with "honest basic construction" materials is that its often not very practical. Take honest basic ply, probably Shuttering Ply, with holes and voids that visually, or construction quality wise, you wouldn't want because it's only intended for a one time use. So, you go for better more technical ply, and you're possibly compromising the honest basic bit. Don't get me wrong, I know what you mean though.
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeJul 19th 2015
     
    Laminate something on to the ply? The edges of the ply could be oiled and remain visible. You could try just ply and if that doesn't work your plan b is a square of stainless steel over the bit that gets the wear and plan c is over the whole thing. I'm sure you can buy something like corian laminated to birch ply off the shelf btw
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    Rick_M - yes, I like stainless steel as to me it doesn't have the bling factor I'm trying hard to avoid. I've used it in the past in a separate kitchen, but as this space is open plan (and not large) I wonder if it's too harsh a look. There is of course formica on ply to consider too.

    Google has also found me a supplier of 20mm thick maple which might look good, especially with breadboard ends. A local firm could make that for me with sycamore.

    I was intending to use some stainless steel in a sit-on sink with drainer and upstand so don't need worktop around the wet area. Why don't more manufacturers still make these? They seem very practical to me.
  15.  
    Posted By: BeauAs Owlman says birch may well work. It is water proof and has a good quality egde that can be left exposed. Down side is thin face veneeer. How about bamboo ply?http://www.mosobamboosurfaces.co.uk/products/sections/panels-and-veneers/solid-panels/solid-bamboo-panels" >http://www.mosobamboosurfaces.co.uk/products/sections/panels-and-veneers/solid-panels/solid-bamboo-panels


    Thanks for the link Beau, the 5 ply 38mm 8' x 4' sheets look good as door blanks and would match my flooring.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    I made a bamboo worktop for the bathroom washbasin in our previous house, just using bamboo flooring planks. I used two layers because I wanted the extra depth. I glued it up with epoxy and then gave it a few coats of yacht varnish.
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    We went birch ply carcass, doors and exposed edgeing for units and island, but wouldn't have as a surface as it would wear down if not stain significantly. We covered the units with concrete surface which has been great and laminated zinc onto island which isn't as harsh as stainless and will patinate nicely. Will try to post pics.
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    kitchen
      DSCF6082.jpg
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    concrete worksurfaces alongside the zinc which should make the patination fit in better.
      S0706098.jpg
    • CommentAuthorWeeBeastie
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    adwindrum,

    Thanks for posting the pics. The whole kitchen - and the hallway beyond - looks amazing! The zinc works very well - just the right softness. The only zinc worktops I've seen photos of before have been quite rustic, so this is an eye-opener.

    How was the zinc attached to the ply? Did you use a specialist of some sort, or could it be done by a regular builder?

    Also, just supposing you'd put the sink in the zinc rather than concrete, how might you have approached this? Would a stainless inset sink with drainer look odd with the zinc?
  21.  
    Seond that the house looks fantastic adwindrum!
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    We used Evo-Stik 528 Industrial Contact Adhesive (http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-528-industrial-contact-adhesive-transluscent-amber-2-5ltr/42076?kpid=42076&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&kpid=42076&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Sealants%20and%20Adhesives-_-Shopping%20-%20Sealants%20and%20Adhesives&gclid=CO78ndzu6cYCFWWWtAodDIgNSQ) and it was very simple to do with plenty of care. It is a soft metal so the edges were easy to file smooth and tight.
    Around a sink would be problematic with the edge grain of ply being exposed so much.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    Posted By: WeeBeastieAlso, just supposing you'd put the sink in the zinc rather than concrete, how might you have approached this? Would a stainless inset sink with drainer look odd with the zinc?

    Posted By: adwindrumAround a sink would be problematic with the edge grain of ply being exposed so much.

    Could you fasten (glue?) the sink to the underside of the zinc before mounting the zinc on the ply? That way there would be no ply exposed. I don't know about appearance and it would probably be wise to make sure the two metals didn't touch, otherwise there'd likely be some cosmetic corrosion at least.

    Of course you could always get a custom zinc sink ...
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    Adam, could you post a PIC of the window reveals and framing....looks nice.
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    Gratuitous shots.....
    this is the zinc island reflecting.....
      S0446069.jpg
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    windows - having trouble finding small enough files..will upload more on tues when I have time to shrink them.
      S0404131 - Copy.jpg
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeJul 20th 2015
     
    windows.
      S0835184.jpg
  28.  
    Looks fabulous. More pics please. - can we have some stair details?
  29.  
    adwindrum, great looking house, like the reveal detailing and the kitchen.
    • CommentAuthoradwindrum
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2015
     
    stair details
      S0876125.jpg

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