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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Hi! We have our timber frame going up in a few weeks. There are a number of steels that are in the walls, and we are looking at possible ways of insulating them and thermally breaking them. The overall U value for the walls which consist of rockwool at 140mm and a 40mm PIR lining board is 0.17. We have looked at the 10mm spacetherm which looks ok but expensive (over £1000). With a 40mm PIR liner internally, does anyone know if there would be a huge benefit to using the spacetherm. I was also considering using 25mm PIR in the exterior cavity over the steels instead of the spacetherm as it shouldn't disrupt the airflow any more than the 25mm battens we are using elsewhere. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

    Thanks!
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2020
     
    Having difficulty visualising the position of the steels in the wall. Have you got a cross section sketch that you could post. Presumably architect /SE been involved what have they got to say.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2020
     
    will the steel be inside or outside the thermal envelope?
  2.  
    Hi guys,

    I have attached the plans below. I have designed the house myself and the timber frame company did the actual frame design so no architect. The steels are in the stud walls as you can see from the drawings. Any thoughts would be helpful!
      Screenshot_20201017-193319.jpg
  3.  
    Here is the other plan
      Screenshot_20201017-193308.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 17th 2020
     
    You maybe want to upload higher-resolution images to someplace and link to them. It's not clear where the steels are on the images you're limited to on this site.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeOct 18th 2020
     
    Well I can see enough - socking great steel stanchions extending (on plan section) from just inside the cladding (?) and projecting into the room, in two places. Huge conductors, efficiently radiating midwinter into the room! They'll have to be boxed around internally at decent thickness, even if using super-insulative material.

    What happens overhead? Do they support a horizontal beam similarly penetrating the roof thermal envelope?
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeOct 18th 2020
     
    A sectional detail around the stanchions and frame would be useful as I cannot make out with sufficient clarity. Presumably it is a 2 storey house so the steels supporting upper floor will need fire proofing. If you have them painted with intumescent paint it will be easier than fireproofing by boxing in. It is a mistake I made and it was far more effort to box in it is easier to paint.
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeOct 21st 2020
     
    Difficult to see, but looks like you'll have several different details, all with quite different possible solutions. A column, maybe a 150x150 UC? with a beam face fixed. Beam tail starting on the timber frame. Beam running along an external wall face. Beam as a cantilever to outside.

    Draw every detail, and that in itself will start to unravel the conundrum. Air tightness must be brought into the buildup too, for example laying in pieces of membrane as the structure goes up, so you're not trying to stick tape around beams, joists, joist hangers, etc.

    Build it on paper first, then you might get 80% of where you'd like to be.

    Share the drawings on here, let us help you pick it apart.
    • CommentAuthordickster
    • CommentTimeOct 22nd 2020
     
    Ours was built with an A frame steel within the insulated (blown paper) walls/roof of the house. I made a great song and dance about the steels needing a thermal break where the verticals poked down through the walls between the brickwork/blockwork apron air brick ventilated cavity and onto the concrete raft (non insulated).

    Both architect and builder not interested, stating that it was not necessary. My view was that the let's say -12C base of steel going straight up into warm wall would be a condensatory disaster. I lost out on this one.

    Suffice to say that upon later inspections in cold/humid conditions the steel both internally and externally remains bone dry. The additional heat loss no doubt is negligable. No cold spots or mould growth.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2020
     
    Aerogel wrap..

    https://enviroform-insulation.com/product/steel-window-posts-lintels/

    Probably need fire rated plasterboard as well.
  4.  
    I'm sorry i never got back to anyone on here, who knew building your own house would be so time consuming!!

    Thanks for all the thoughts. It's reassuring to see you had the same concerns as me dickster but no issues.

    The house is up but not insulated yet. There are a number of steels that are flush with the external face of the osb wall. I was thinking about just using Rockwool, wood fibre or blown insulation 140mm in the walls and then wrapping the whole house in Pavatex 100mm to break these steels from the outside and then to not add much insulation on the inside of those steels (so as to further reduce risk of condensation. I was also thinking of using 10mm of Aerogel to the inside face of the steels where the windows are going to break them from the Glazing, so any thoughts on this would be great. Rockwool is far more on budget for us than wood fibre in the walls so any thoughts on this would be great. The roof is a warm deck flat roof with 275mm of Hardrock rockwool on it.

    Lots of pics in full size here
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zxx5l6qcjv85lnn/AABbGIsjwYQnyi4J5VFdOaQEa?dl=0

    Any thoughts would be appreciated, or any suggestions for a good insulation supplier who can give unbiased advice on combining pavatex with rockwool in this way.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 4th 2021
     
    Once the steel is inside your insulation barrier then there is no need to insulate them

    I would use any aerogel on the outside of them to try to mitigate the thermal bridging that they introduce, really this should be designed in rather than added afterwards.
    • CommentAuthorSimonD
    • CommentTimeJan 7th 2021
     
    Posted By: nickbartleetI'm sorry i never got back to anyone on here, who knew building your own house would be so time consuming!!

    Thanks for all the thoughts. It's reassuring to see you had the same concerns as me dickster but no issues.

    The house is up but not insulated yet. There are a number of steels that are flush with the external face of the osb wall. I was thinking about just using Rockwool, wood fibre or blown insulation 140mm in the walls and then wrapping the whole house in Pavatex 100mm to break these steels from the outside and then to not add much insulation on the inside of those steels (so as to further reduce risk of condensation. I was also thinking of using 10mm of Aerogel to the inside face of the steels where the windows are going to break them from the Glazing, so any thoughts on this would be great. Rockwool is far more on budget for us than wood fibre in the walls so any thoughts on this would be great. The roof is a warm deck flat roof with 275mm of Hardrock rockwool on it.

    Lots of pics in full size here
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zxx5l6qcjv85lnn/AABbGIsjwYQnyi4J5VFdOaQEa?dl=0

    Any thoughts would be appreciated, or any suggestions for a good insulation supplier who can give unbiased advice on combining pavatex with rockwool in this way.


    Hello Nick,

    My recent experience of selecting insulation systems for my build has been that suppliers will typically have one or more systems they've designed that may either have BBA certification or is a registered LABC detail. You'll typically find that to derive most benefit these systems will utilise similar materials across the system. For example, using wood fibre throughout the wall structure. That doesn't mean to the say you can't build up your walls with different materials, like Rockwool and woodfibre.You just won't necessarily gain the full benefit of the system. For example, Rockwool is not hygroscopic. I have seen examples of people using mineral wool with Pavatex on timber framed walls.

    I'm still rather bemused why designers design what are supposed to be energy efficient buildings with steels embedded in the walls creating such cold bridging. Our architect did the same with our build with one steel spanning the whole width of the house. I was lucky enough to be able to move the walls where this was a problem so the steels all sit within the insulated fabric of the house. I also had our structural engineer design a couple of cantilevered floors and roof in order to remove several bay window posts that would have been terrible cold bridges.The initial design was, like in your instance, to use an aero gel or similar around the bay posts. Now I have non structural timber posts instead.

    I think your idea to have an external layer of insulation outside the frame and steels is a sensible one.
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