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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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  1.  
    Sinnerboy, are you sure it was dryrot and not wet rot? and are you sure these outbreaks occured as a result of leaking roofs? Or were the outbreaks a result of a more serious water ingress at a level lower than the eaves; which subsequently spread to the wall plates? I learned my trade with a dry rot company many years ago and have seen many instances of the above.

    I agree with you about treated timber in wall plates especially in cases like the one I just described, though take the view that if the timbers are not allready rotten in the OP's house then they never will be.

    So while I agree that it is wise to take steps like this where there is any evidence of a previous [dry rot] outbreak, I still maintian that dry rot is rare if not impossible in a well ventilated cold roof as the conditons are just not conducive to those necessary for dry rot to occur.

    I think a lot of the thriving dry rot industry in the UK is due not to the true dry rot fungus, but exploitation of wet rot/other fungii which could be far more easilly [and cheaply] dealt with.
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009 edited
     
    does treating timber really help that much with , wet/ dry rot

    some supplier in my area (SE UK) only stock treated structurial timbers and many drawing I quote on
    specify treated timber through out , which I generally ignore. I believe most timber treatment by suppliers
    is just a way of upselling , increasing profit on a standard item.

    If you got a leak ,it'll show on a ceiling or something and you fix it

    as for insulation blocking air flow at the eaves you can use those corrigated vent things( rafter tray)
    which are a good idea anyway as they let you stuff the insulation right in to the eaves and hopefully help get over the problem of eaves/wallplate/wall insulation being the week point

    http://www.klober.co.uk/product2.php?id=15
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009 edited
     
    Posted By: jamesingramdoes treating timber really help that much with , wet/ dry ro


    James, when dry rot is treated, the spores are not actuall 'killed' forever. More like ' rendered dormant' and contained within a ring of chemicals resistant to them returning. If the correct conditions reoccur however, then a fresh outbreak is possible, so treated timbers in adjacent areas are a wise move.

    You do of course need timber, water, and stagnant air for dry rot to occur, and then at the correct levels. Take away any one of these three, and dry rot can neither occur nor 'survive' This 'managed' approach is at least more widely used these days than the 'smash it to bits and squirt chemicals everywhere'

    I agree with you about the over specification of treated timber.
  2.  
    thank mike , good info

    how about wet rot , how does treating timber (if it does) help there
    • CommentAuthorMike George
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2009 edited
     
    Outbreaks of wet rot just need the 'infected timber' removed and the source of water stopped. Treated timber is not required as a replacement in my view. I only use it where embedded in, or in contact with masonry where there is a significant risk of water penetration [such as Gable ladders in cavity walls].
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2009
     
    Mike the most severe timber rot incidence I encountered was actually wet rot . A concealed valley gutter for its entire length was reduced to looking like a Cadburys Flake . Acro- props dig out and replacement works followed . The replacement wall plate was pressure impregnated as were the the spliced joist and rafter feet . This Victorian terraced property was neglected - the valley gutter sole was perished . The vendor concealed the rot by fresh skim and decoration . We suspected we may encounter some rot - but not to this extent . The property was purchased in the desperate "take it or leave it" atmosphere of the dearly departed boom time .....

    My view is that so much of the argument against judicious use of preservative ( meaning wall plates , sole plates joist and rafter ends ) is predicated on the basis that a building will always receive due care and attention . But they don't always .

    I don't accept that because the OP's timbers have never suffered rot that they never will . It is , in the near future I assume , going to be heated and insulated like it never was before . Perhaps for most of its life it did not have a sarking felt . Lots of air flow . The existing 70mm Rockwool ( assumption - based on not knowing the built detail) most likely is not covering over the wallplate and rafter ends . It may not even approach the tops of the joists . So as you have pointed out - plenty of these timbers surafce areas are exposed to free air movement so even if localized wetting events arose before - dry rot could not take hold .

    The contemporary eaves detail - 300/400mm quilt which packs tight into the eaves pinch point must include a rafter roll vent strip . That vent strip will do nothing for those timber parts now wrapped in rockwool . No free air movement potential there . So what we have local to our eaves detail are timbers with hopefully a vapour barrier below , Rockwool pack and a PVC vent strip over which will form another local vapour barrier over the timbers . Now suppose water penetration occurs - and the building is neglected. What will happen ?

    The OP - in my opinion - has a golden opportunity , when these timbers will be exposed for hopefully the only time in decades , - to minmise the risk of timber rot
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2009
     
    I do not at all like the philosophy of thinking that treating timber will stop it rotting as it leads to lackadaisical attitudes towards problems

    "all my timber is treated as a little bit of wet or damp wont hurt"

    This idea is nonsense, wood will decay if is damp for extended periods and something should or should have been done to prevent or rectify the problem

    I didn't use treated wall plates on my new house, I always avoid working with treated timber as it is horrid and toxic.



    It does not sound like your valley gutter had dry rot to me either. -- I bet there were lots of warning signs of the problem under (indoors) too.
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2009
     
    Perhaps you should re read the 1st line of my last post . And please don't twist my words around . Or speculate on a building i saw and you did not .
  3.  
    I can see how dry rot can be reduced ,stopped using treated timber
    but I'm a bit confused how it would works with wet rot
    painting, oiling etc will protect the exposed timber from the effects of weather and water
    but how does pressure treating stop wood rotting if it in constant contact with water due to a leak or design limitations, say as in the eaves detailing describe by sinnerboy

    I presumed wet rot as mentioned was natural decay of wood from being wet

    sorry if this sounds a bit of a daft question , but does the preservative actually preserve against this decay

    and if so to what extent ?

    cheers Jim
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2009 edited
     
    Hardly a daft question . Fungal attack encouraged by excess moisture in timber is the common denominator with wet / dry rot . Preservatives delay / inhibit the process only - they can't stave it off indefinitely . I can't say for sure to what extent any treatment would be effective James . It would "buy time" that's all I can say . Several years I would hope to bridge periods of neglect - that's all .

    Now the OP may well make a judgement that he/she will ensure that the building will be carefully maintained "on their watch" and that preservative is not required . Which may seem fair enough . But this Grade 2 listed building will pass on to others not all of whom may care for it is well as he/she will . The preservative may just be enough to "bridge" such lapses . Maybe . I would apply the treatment if it was my house .
  4.  
    sinnerboy , I think your reasoning makes sense , it a view I hadn't considered before.
    its the belt and brace approach in area of high risk as Mike suggested earlier

    it the 'use it for everthing ' view I dislike

    yes, if well maintained it shouldn't be required , but we all know most people like a new bathroom or car rather
    than spend money on painting those boring old fascias etc.
    we should be building for the long term , so this means planning for people who dont give a hoot
    because they'll be living in our house too
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2009
     
    Tony.

    "Dry wood is of no interest to woodworm or fungal spores"

    Is this true? I was not aware that woodworm was only attracted to damp or wet wood !! I found woodworm in my workshop bench and the timber has never been damp or wet (workshop is built to house standard ie damp course/membranes etc. I put the woodworm down to cross contamination from old wood stored in the corner which had the dreaded worm and I had not spotted it.
    • CommentAuthorsinnerboy
    • CommentTimeJun 5th 2009
     
  5.  
    Posted By: sinnerboyMike the most severe timber rot incidence I encountered was actually wet rot . A concealed valley gutter for its entire length was reduced to looking like a Cadburys Flake . Acro- props dig out and replacement works followed . The replacement wall plate was pressure impregnated as were the the spliced joist and rafter feet . This Victorian terraced property was neglected - the valley gutter sole was perished . The vendor concealed the rot by fresh skim and decoration . We suspected we may encounter some rot - but not to this extent . The property was purchased in the desperate "take it or leave it" atmosphere of the dearly departed boom time .....

    My view is that so much of the argument against judicious use of preservative ( meaning wall plates , sole plates joist and rafter ends ) is predicated on the basis that a building will always receive due care and attention . But they don't always .

    I don't accept that because the OP's timbers have never suffered rot that they never will . It is , in the near future I assume , going to be heated and insulated like it never was before . Perhaps for most of its life it did not have a sarking felt . Lots of air flow . The existing 70mm Rockwool ( assumption - based on not knowing the built detail) most likely is not covering over the wallplate and rafter ends . It may not even approach the tops of the joists . So as you have pointed out - plenty of these timbers surafce areas are exposed to free air movement so even if localized wetting events arose before - dry rot could not take hold .

    The contemporary eaves detail - 300/400mm quilt which packs tight into the eaves pinch point must include a rafter roll vent strip . That vent strip will do nothing for those timber parts now wrapped in rockwool . No free air movement potential there . So what we have local to our eaves detail are timbers with hopefully a vapour barrier below , Rockwool pack and a PVC vent strip over which will form another local vapour barrier over the timbers . Now suppose water penetration occurs - and the building is neglected. What will happen ?

    The OP - in my opinion - has a golden opportunity , when these timbers will be exposed for hopefully the only time in decades , - to minmise the risk of timber rot


    Been thinking about this. I don't think we're really that far apart in our views. I understand completely why you want to avoid any kind of risk, and if I came across your scenario I may well do the same as you. I guess there is nothing like first hand observation to make to make the necessary judgement.
    • CommentAuthorralphd
    • CommentTimeJun 7th 2009
     
    Dry rot is rare in North America compared to it's prevalence across the pond (according to this article).
    http://www.uoguelph.ca/~gbarron/MISCELLANEOUS/jan01.htm
  6.  
    Use a loose fill insulation product and this will eliminate any air gaps that could occur between fitted rolls of quilts. If a storage area is required then build a raised platform around the loft hatch area and insulate underneath.

    In terms of installation guidelines for insulation in pitched cold roof structures these are detailed in BS5803:Part5 - this details what should be done around the eaves (ventilation) etc. Another place to visit is the National Insulation Association and these guys can give advice.
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeNov 19th 2009
     
    oops
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