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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    My ground conditions are clay, which is wet in places. I have dug a load of trial holes around the field at 1500mm deep where the collectors will go. All these had some water in them after 12 hours. I had a trench open at about 600mm deep for a week which remained dry.
    Is it worth going down any deeper than 1500 with the pipework?
    I'll have a 20t swing on site, so depth isnt a problem...
    My instinct says to go as deep as practicable whilst I have the digger on site. The pipes will be laid in a 5ft wide trench with a pipe at each side, covered with topsoil first before backfilling.
    Any benefits of going to 2m or so?
    Cheers
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    The deeper you go the more stable the temperature and moisture (probably).
    When you say a depth, is that the total minimum amount above the pipes?
    There has been problems with the ground freezing and causing heave, not really a problem down here and more to do with a bad installation.
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    Yes Nick, the pipework is 40mm so a 1500mm deep trench will have 1460 above the pipework. In fact the depth will be a bit deeper once all the topsoil is replaced, about another 200mm or so.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: woodgnomeMy instinct says to go as deep as practicable…
    Not sure that's a good idea - ground source is essentially a solar collector (actual geothermal heat from below being negligible in most cases) so heat must flow down from above to replace that extracted. The usual advice is about 1 metre down with the idea of getting reasonable stability without too much insulation. Maybe somebody who knows properly will be along to advise otherwise for your case but getting just into the water seems to me to be a good idea from the point of view of getting good heat flow and probably roughly consistent with one metre depth.
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies - ground source is essentially a solar collector (actual geothermal heat from below being negligible in most cases) so heat must flow down from above to replace that extracted. The usual advice is about 1 metre down with the idea of getting reasonable stability without too much insulation. Maybe somebody who knows properly will be along to advise otherwise for your case but getting just into the water seems to me to be a good idea from the point of view of getting good heat flow and probably roughly consistent with one metre depth.

    That all ties in with what we picked up while considering (& eventually dropping the idea of) a GSHP.
    Our ground has a water table that is much higher than that & were told that they'd need to run a pump to keep the trench dry(ish) during construction.

    Edit to Add: "during constructon".
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    Ed,

    Are you sure, the ground is a solar collector, but the heat flow in the heating season is not downwards.
    The energy from the sun is contained in the soil, but increases with depth.
    So, the deeper the better, within reasonable limits.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    ... see the attached
      SoilDepthTempChart.1.jpg
  1.  
    Interesting graph on the following page:

    http://www.dimplex.co.uk/products/renewable_solutions/ground_source_heat_pumps_explained.htm

    This implies a shallower collector will be better in November, but worse in February. And there's no point going below 5m depth.

    David
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: skyewrightOur ground has a water table that is much higher than that & were told that they'd need to run a pump to keep the trench dry(ish).
    Why would you need to keep the trench dry(ish)? Is it just that dry below-zero soil has a better thermal conductivity than ice? Other than that, I thought being in the water was better.

    Posted By: DarylPAre you sure, the ground is a solar collector, but the heat flow in the heating season is not downwards.
    Bit difficult to parse that sentence but yes, during the heating season the heat flow in the soil will be upwards so not being too close to the surface is a good idea but over the whole year the net flow must be downwards; the heat taken out by the GSHP pipes needs to be replaced. If the pipes are too deep there will be too much insulation for that to happen so the ground wouldn't warm up enough in the summer before the next winter comes along.

    How deep that it is is another question; from what I've read about 1 metre seems to commonly be about right but that's rather second-hand information.

    Boreholes are bit different as they rely on heat transfer by water movement (which slinkies can use too, of course) as well as having ground available in more directions.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    Daryl and David - those graphs are for soil temperatures without heat being removed.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    It must depend on the area that the pipework covers and how much heat is being taken out of the ground by the heat pump. (If you go too deep, it may take more than year for the ground to recover.)
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesIf the pipes are too deep there will be too much insulation for that to happen so the ground wouldn't warm up enough in the summer before the next winter comes along.


    If heat will go from warm to cold direction, wouldn't the cooled part of the ground attract heat from both directions, both above and below the collectors?
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    Posted By: Ed Daviesom what I've read about 1 metre seems to commonly be about right but that's rather second-hand information.


    I recently read that pipes coming to/ from the manifold should be insulated at 1M deep to protect the ground from freezing/ heaving..

    So much conflicting info!
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    Remember the theory of earth-sheltered houses - that over the years the soil warms up. Same must apply in the opposite direction to slinkies - if buried too deep the thermal gradient will eventually get too shallow to warm the soil back up again after the heating season.

    There are differences, of course. Mostly that with earth-sheltering everything's a bit more compact and you go to some effort (if you're wise) to avoid water moving through the soil taking all your lovely heat away. Still, the basic principle is the same, there comes a point where there's no point in going deeper as the extra material around doesn't provide useful extra mass or extra heat paths but does increase the insulation.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    2m minimum, and the area of the heat field is very important too small wrt amount of heat being drawn out has led to big expensive problems.

    Boreholes work well
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    Ed,
    Yes that is what the graph shows, but if heat can be said to travel uniformly through the soil, there is more energy in the heating season to replace the heat taken out, at 4m than 1m depth.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    I have never understood how boreholes recover unless they are below the water table. As the cold earth is a long way from the surface. However I never did like 3d maths!
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    I could always put in the pond I enlarged.....http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10079&page=1

    I seem to be going round in circles 2 years later!
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesWhy would you need to keep the trench dry(ish)? Is it just that dry below-zero soil has a better thermal conductivity than ice? Other than that, I thought being in the water was better.

    I should (& now have) added "...during construction".

    They said they needed a clear view to be sure the pipe was properly in the bottom of the trench, and then properly buried during backfill.

    At the time we "walked the ground" (& for most of this year come to that) the water table was just slightly above ground level and flowing (very slowly) across the site, so quite some pump would have been required!

    If we'd gone ahead the ground conditions, with an almost constant slow flow of water through it, would have been ideal (very good thermal contact & heat loss replenished by the passing water).
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    As long as it didn't ice up
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2015
     
    Got to be remembered that Woodgnome is in Cornwall, so most of the energy is transferred via water, which is warm here. We rarely get a frost (think I had 2 last year).

    I think, and from what I understand from my mate that used to work at Kensa, that soil type is important. Down here, and especially on the North Coast, there is little soil (in the scheme of things). Bit different on the South Coast where there is more clay (what St Austell is built on).
    Without doing a lot of research into the local soil type and water table, I suspect that there would not be much difference between 1 or 2 metres depth.

    There is very little energy moving upwards from the Earth Core, about 65 mW/m^2
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geothermal_gradient
    But there are places where it is much, much greater (volcanoes for one).

    We don't need much heating in November, but generally February is a cold month and we do. This has a lot more to do with ocean temperature and weather patterns than stored energy in the top meter or 5 of the ground.
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2015
     
    Bare in mind the heating season is normally the wet season so the water table in your trenches may well rise as winter progresses. We have GSHP and I have seen the return temperature go up by 5 degrees overnight due to groundwater rising. Ours are between 1m and 1.2 m depth for single pipe not a slinky as per our suppliers recommendation.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2015
     
    Posted By: BeauOurs are between 1m and 1.2 m depth for single pipe not a slinky as per our suppliers recommendation.
    What is the pipe length and the output of your GSHP. This is really the important bit I think. The pipe length 'sets' the land area needed, coil the pipe up and you probably need more pipe overall as the energy harvesting area is reduced.

    Could read though this, funny units thought.
    http://geokiss.com/res-design/GSHPDesignRec2.pdf
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2015
     
    Posted By: SteamyTea
    Posted By: BeauOurs are between 1m and 1.2 m depth for single pipe not a slinky as per our suppliers recommendation.
    What is the pipe length and the output of your GSHP. This is really the important bit I think. The pipe length 'sets' the land area needed, coil the pipe up and you probably need more pipe overall as the energy harvesting area is reduced.

    Could read though this, funny units thought.
    http://geokiss.com/res-design/GSHPDesignRec2.pdf


    It's a 6 kWh GSHP and 200 meter 32mm horizontal loop. I think the loop is too short as return temperatures are close to freezing when it's working hard and this seems lower than most users I have spoken too.
    Think the short loop was recommended to keep to the instal price down to win the quote :angry: Ended up installing the whole thing myself so an extra few hundred meters of pipe would of been trivial in the grand scheme of things. Still it's worked faultlessly for years now just would have been more efficient with a longer loop.
    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2015
     
    I had a similar conversation with a heat pump installer that i trusted more than some about depths. I too was asking if it was worth going lower than 1.2m (after that you need to be shoring up the sides according to the regs).
    He said that it wasn't worth the effort and that it can even be beneficial to be nearer the surface because there can be more movement in water which is good for obvious reasons. I too am in a clay area with a high water table in winter months.
    • CommentAuthorbxman
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2015
     
    Trouble is water does not flow through clay or not ones I have been acquainted with
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2015
     
    You only need to shore up the sides, if someone is going into the trench. (Unless the ground is so unstable that the sides fall in.)
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeOct 9th 2015
     
    OK, slight diversion off topic.
    Since this post
    ttp://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10079&page=1

    I enlarged the pond. It's now about 1000M3 and has a flow rate from the overflow of about 50,000 litres per day. Can't measure temp at minute, but let's say 8deg C same as Feb 2013 when I last measured it. Flow rate was about 30,000 litres per day in high summer, but I won't need space heating then, only DHW.
    My 2 different RHI heal loss calcs I have say HP 10500 kWh and then Bio 10550kWh
    The other says HP kWh 11700 and Bio 11720kWh.
    I don't understand what the HP and Bio refer to.

    Is the pond any good for the collectors?

    Cheers
  2.  
    Posted By: woodgnomeIs the pond any good for the collectors?


    Yes, the overflow rate alone is more than enough. For a 10kW heatpump, you need around 20l per minute (easy to calculate - take the specific heat capacity of water, a reasonable temperature drop of around 5C and convert power units into energy by factoring the time, and that will give you your required flow rate). This is just less than your lowest rate of 30kl/day.

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthorJonG
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2015
     
    Woodgnome it sounds like your heat loss has been calculated on a platform called Easy MCS HP and Bio are Heat Pump and Biomass respectively.
   
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