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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2017 edited
     
    What ever happened to "Build TIght Ventilate Right"

    They are making holes in the walls of well insulated houses !!! For ventilation

    And talking about "unintended air tightness" trying to use air leakage instead of proper ventilation.

    And even worse "No insulation without ventilation" -- back to front thinking!

    Damp mould and condensation is becoming an increasing problem in new houses and flats.

    Build Tight Ventilate Right. Simples
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2017
     
    It never really emerged out of our bubble Tony. Not sure if that's because our argument isn't/wasn't strong enough, or certain parties have an interest in not allowing it.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2017
     
    Posted By: tonyDamp mould and condensation is becoming an increasing problem in new houses and flats.


    therefore (one assumes...) it is becoming an increasing problem in peoples' *LUNGS*...

    "avoidable disease and injuries caused by poor housing costs the NHS at least £600m a year."
    in https://www.theguardian.com/society-professionals/2014/aug/08/housing-problems-affect-health

    gg
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2017
     
    I've noticed an interesting effect in my fairly-airtight house; the MVHR is not currently active (naughty) and though steps are taken to minimise moisture generation, and run a large dehumidifier I've been mystified by some apparent leaks that I see tracing down the sides of my bifolding doorsets. I know I have a couple of roof leaks that affect teh same area, the top of the frame of the door fills and then the water runs out at either end and presents itself at the foot of the door and runs down the wall (these bifolds are on the second storey)

    Opening the bifolds to stick my head out for a better look, I see the gap between frame and door is chock full of beads of water. I presume this is due to bifolds not having an amazing air seal (particularly along the bottom) when they use a low profile threshold (it's basically a plastic leaf with bristles either side that brushes onto an aluminium runner, kinda like a draft excluder) and small amounts of house air seep into the cavity and then condense on the parts the other side of the thermal break


    I'll be interested to see whether enabling the MVHR improves this
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeFeb 2nd 2017 edited
     
    Black mould and condensation is becoming an increasing problem because we have a greater focus on airtightness now, we're less hardy and willing to wear a jumper - we just reach for the ipad and remote control the nest to increase the heating, and we're ignorant of how much water we load into our over-heated house because we have so many wonderfully technological ways of doing it now.

    The answer of course is not to return to the dark ages of boiling pots over coal fires, open chimneys, wet washing outside, tin baths adjacent the fire and and low temperature washing up, all in a house with gaps around the wndows you could get your hand in..
    ..it's to manage the problem more effectively in harmony with the extra generation

    Kinda like we did with the power stations when all the housewives bought electric vacuum cleaners, and spend more time sucking more power out of the grid, cleaning the houses the powerstations were busy dirtying because of the extra demand.
    Maybe one day we'll have an "A-F moisture generation rating label" that we can ignore too
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2017
     
    I think Tony is exactly right, the more we build tight the more we need to ventilate right as long as the more we do the former the more we must do the latter to maintain health ( and save money and the planet).
  1.  
    I've lost count of the times I have been told that EWI is bad for a house because it makes the house get black mould........go figure!

    Locally we had a family die (2 dead, 2 in ICU) after the windows were replaced with nice modern ones - pity no one thought to look at the gas heating installation!
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2017 edited
     
    It pains me that building regs aren't up to speed on moisture. They want me to internally insulate a solid brick wall with some unfortunate concrete render on the outside. The outside has gone green (presumably condensation from the outside meaning the wall finish is both waterproof and soaking). Still haven't figured out how to do it without building a new wall or EWI.

    Stove installer wanted a big hole in the wall to make sure the stove had enough air to burn. Why functional checks, CO2 alarms and the leaky doors and windows aren't enough I don't know.

    It is environmentally friendly these days to rip out your perfectly good 100 year old windows and replace them with short lifetime windows with trickle vents...

    Absolutely sensibly planned ventilation is important and surely much more efficient than adding random holes in the walls. Also the world is still mad.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2017
     
    Posted By: vordCO2 alarms
    CO? (Monoxide is a more immediate danger than dioxide.)
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2017
     
    Posted By: vordThe outside has gone green (presumably condensation from the outside meaning the wall finish is both waterproof and soaking).

    Depends what direction it is facing. North-facing walls can go green whatever they're made from. Walls close to trees or other shade, likewise. But the average surface humidity needs to be fairly high, though not what I would describe as soaking.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2017
     
    Echo chamber, people. Echo chamber. No one else understands or gives a shit.
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2017 edited
     
    Article on this subject in last issue of Passive House Mag. Perhaps that's what prompted Tony to post?

    Airtightness is improving faster than ventilation is. I suggest that this is a transitional period. People will work it out, as we do actually know what to do (MVHR)
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2017
     
    My problem is that there are other silly solutions that are cheaper to install, expensive for occupants like holes in walls, PIV,

    I agree that we will work it out but legislation might be needed to help things along.
  2.  
    I think wookey has hit the nail on the head. It is fairly easy in a new build to insulate it well, and seal it up. The problem in this country is we live in a damp climate, so HAVE to ventilate out the moisture. I see a real need for MHRV type systems, but 99% of users will not understand how to use them properly, or maintain them properly. Loads would just turn off the MHRV, close the windows and trickle vents, and then complain about the condensation.

    I think, in my gloomy moments, that it is a ticking time bomb.
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    Closing windows and not having trickle vents is good, so long as the MVHR is left on.

    For tenants don't give them an off switch so it's hard to turn off. For householders I'm not convinced there is a problem: I'm the sort that bunged up holes in walls and removed or never turned on extract fans in bathrooms and bedrooms, but I'm OK with running MVHR because it doesn't make a terrible racket and only uses a few watts, and doesn't just throw all the heat straight out through the wall. In practice we only seem to need to run it half the time to get reasonable ventilation. I reckon most people can be OK with that, especially if they find it goes all mouldy if they turn it off.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    IIRC a recent / last study showed MVHR works well, BUT occupants 'forget' to clean/change the filters,
    thus the systems become inefficient = Daily Maul horror stories...:devil:
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    My MVHR doesn't have an off switch. When you turn the speed dial to the 0 position it still ventilates at 50 m³/hr (9 W). We have it like that during the day. When we go to bed I turn it to the nominal position (#1) which is 125 m³/hr (26 W) so that the post heater works overnight. In the summer I do the same so the summer bypass can do night cooling effectively.

    If you actually want to turn it off, you can switch it off at the isolator or if you RTFM you can discover a front panel key sequence to stop it, intended for use whilst cleaning the filters.

    I think part of the problem is that people have no experience of domestic ventilation systems, and can't translate office or hotel experiences to their own house. As more people get experience in friends' houses and hopefully with a few more news stories about the benefits of cleaning the filters, I hope the take-up will increase.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    Djh, I know you told us but cannot remember where, what kind of post heater do you have, electric or wet, what size and do you find it effective for your build ( I have to plan whether or not I have one)
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    It's an electric one - a VEAB MQEM 1.8 kW unit. It is effective but because I try to only run it overnight on E7 it doesn't have enough power when the weather is freezing (unless the sun is shining). So I supplement it overnight with some halogen heaters, which is not very elegant. Maybe I'll figure out a better solution in time.

    I suppose a wet battery plus a tank and immersion or heat pump would let the post heater cope alone but that's more money and hassle.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    +1 for a heat pump rather than direct electric
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>+1 for a heat pump rather than direct electric</blockquote>

    Thanks, I did wonder because I am having electric UFH upstairs in the bathroom ( say 5am to 6am) and the DHW tank will receive its hot water input from my ASHP overnight on E7 so if I had a wet heater I could tee it into the DHW feed going to the DHW tank!!! This would heat upstairs a little overnight ( yes I know air does not carry energy very well but in a well insulated house I believe it will be enough).
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    Good plan
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2017
     
    If you have hot water from an ASHP, why are you having electric UFH rather than wet UFH?

    Posted By: joe90I know air does not carry energy very well but in a well insulated house I believe it will be enough

    The insulation level for a passivhaus is designed to be just enough to make that possible. By running the heater all day in the worst weather, less when the weather is not so severe.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2017
     
    The UFH downstairs will take a long time to heat the slab overnight and hopefully last most of the day. The bathrooms only need an hour to warm the vinyl flooring and electric UFH is much easier to lay for a small area and short time needed.( IMO)
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2017
     
    If you know the mass of the heated slab, and the energy input from the ASHP, along with the initial temperature at the start of the heating period, and the mean flow temperature from the ASH, you can work out the time it will take to warm up.
    You then subtract the 'losses', which is the energy going into the house to keep it warm.
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