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    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021 edited
     
    Hi,

    New to the forum, so apologies in advance if I've not posted correctly or adhered to forum rules (although I have read them!).

    We have a thermal store (Gledhill 350 Sol) connected to gas boiler (Intergas Combi Compact HR30/36) and solid fuel stove (Dunsley Yorkshire). Try to keep the TS at 70c (according the the central thermostat) as advised, but the house is struggling warm enough on cold days. The radiators are hot at the top but are at best luke warm at the bottom. It is a dual zone system for upstairs and downstairs.

    I'm not sure if it's a balancing issue as there isn't one particularly really hot radiator stealing heat from the others. The whole house was also replumbed about 4 years ago, so I would be surprised if it needs a 'flush'.

    I'd be interested and highly appreciative of thoughts on the radiator temperature issue, especially how to solve it!
  1.  
    Benm85
    How are the rads. fed from the thermal store (TS) ? This can be key. If the rads are indirect by some form then the 70deg. won't be going out to the rads.
    Does the rad. output come from the same level on the TS as the temp.gauge?
    Have you measured the temp. of the TS output to rads and at the input to each each rad.?
    Have the rads. been sized correctly for the heat load of the building?
    What is the output of the rads compared to the kWs of the combi.
    Is the problem of rad. temp. the same with both the combi and the wood stove running?

    For a quick fix you could try raising the temp. of the TS to 80deg. because the higher input heat will increase the heat output of the rads. (rads are usually designed for a temp. drop of between 10.15 deg)
    Sorry about lots of questions but more info. is needed to get a handle on the problem.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021 edited
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryBenm85
    How are the rads. fed from the thermal store (TS) ? This can be key. If the rads are indirect by some form then the 70deg. won't be going out to the rads.


    Yes, the rads are fed from the thermal store, as is the DHW.

    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryBenm85
    Does the rad. output come from the same level on the TS as the temp.gauge?


    Yes, it's at the same level.


    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryBenm85
    Have you measured the temp. of the TS output to rads and at the input to each each rad.?
    Have the rads. been sized correctly for the heat load of the building?
    What is the output of the rads compared to the kWs of the combi.
    Is the problem of rad. temp. the same with both the combi and the wood stove running?


    Will need to come back to you on that, as I don't have a thermometer to measure this. Will need to purchase one to give it a proper measure.


    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryBenm85

    Is the problem of rad. temp. the same with both the combi and the wood stove running?


    Without the stove going, the thermal store does struggle to get anywhere near warm enough to do the heating well enough to get the house warm and sufficient hot water. Even with the boiler up to 85c. I do wonder if I am using the boiler correctly, i.e. should it be at a lower temp (and thus running more efficiently) but for longer. According to the internet, the intergas boiler has a maximum CH output of 30kw. Whether this is enough for a 350l thermal store, I'm not sure.

    Really appreciate the response Peter, very useful info. Need to go find a decent thermometer to check the temps!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    It sounds to me like the flow rate may not be sufficient. Water is reaching all the radiators and cooling down whilst it flows (slowly) through them so it is cold before it reaches the bottom. Assuming it is pumped it might be worth increasing the pump speed. What are the flow and return temperatures at the boiler and stove? Do you use both together or one at a time?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Posted By: Benm85According to the internet, the intergas boiler has a maximum CH output of 30kw. Whether this is enough for a 350l thermal store, I'm not sure.

    It's not really a question of the boiler being big enough for the thermal store. The question is whether the boiler is big enough to supply all the heat the radiators require. If you haven't already, make a list of all the radiators and their sizes and type (single, double etc). Then you can use tables to calculate the heat output from each radiator at a given temperature and start to work out what you need to be aiming for.

    It's also possible to feed the radiators directly without using the thermal store but it sounds like your thermal store is being used to balance the load between the boiler and the stove. Maybe a plumbing diagram would be useful?
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Posted By: djhIf you go back and edit your second post, you can change the format to Html and the quotes will then show up properly.


    Thanks djh! Sorted now. Good tip
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    ditto what DJH said.

    think of your system as two separate parts. Boiler's job is to keep the TS hot. TS's job is to feed the rads.

    If the TS is consistently at it's set point (ie 70oC) then the boiler is doing it's job.

    If the rads are not giving out enough heat, then there is a problem between the TS and the Rads, nothing to do with the boiler.

    Rad hot at top and cold at bottom is a flow rate issue, exactly as DJH explained. It sounds kind of unusual, as would have to be very slow flow rate, much less than I'd expect from a pump.

    Log boiler stoves can send out bits of crud, into the system. I've seen this lots of times, and usually fit strainers to catch this. Of course the strainer gets blocked, and so needs flushing, but at least you've caught the crud and can flush it.

    Increase the pump speed by all means, and that should show an improvement, but I've £10 bet on something being choked (blend valve, automated valve, pump inlet, strainer).

    Also check that the balance valve (lockshield) on the other end of the rad from the TRV have been set properly, and not all closed down. One should be fully open (on longest part of CH run usually) with all the rest being appropriately more closed to balance the flow to rads.

    Likewise, check any other valve in the CH circuit are not closed down, eg. gate valves on either side of the pump.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Thanks for the info, djh

    Posted By: djhIt sounds to me like the flow rate may not be sufficient. Water is reaching all the radiators and cooling down whilst it flows (slowly) through them so it is cold before it reaches the bottom. Assuming it is pumped it might be worth increasing the pump speed. What are the flow and return temperatures at the boiler and stove? Do you use both together or one at a time?


    The CH runs off a Grundfos pump, and on the what I presume are 'power levels' (looks like a sliding scale or tiny bar graph!) it's on the lowest. So, I guess I could try turning that up to max. We tend to use both the boiler and stove at the same time. Without the stove input, the TS really does struggle to get to anywhere near 70c. Need to get a thermometer to check flow and return temps.

    Posted By: djhIt's not really a question of the boiler being big enough for the thermal store. The question is whether the boiler is big enough to supply all the heat the radiators require. If you haven't already, make a list of all the radiators and their sizes and type (single, double etc). Then you can use tables to calculate the heat output from each radiator at a given temperature and start to work out what you need to be aiming for.


    I've done some quick calculations and the heat output from the radiators is 16kw. With the output of the boiler rated at 30kw, and the Dunsley also inputting, I'm guessing that should be plenty to do CH and DHW.

    I'll try the increased flow rate on the pump tonight and see if that makes a difference. Then turning up the TS temp (as suggested by Peter_in_Hungary) the night after to see if that does anything.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Posted By: GreenPaddyditto what DJH said.

    think of your system as two separate parts. Boiler's job is to keep the TS hot. TS's job is to feed the rads.

    If the TS is consistently at it's set point (ie 70oC) then the boiler is doing it's job.

    If the rads are not giving out enough heat, then there is a problem between the TS and the Rads, nothing to do with the boiler.

    Rad hot at top and cold at bottom is a flow rate issue, exactly as DJH explained. It sounds kind of unusual, as would have to be very slow flow rate, much less than I'd expect from a pump.

    Log boiler stoves can send out bits of crud, into the system. I've seen this lots of times, and usually fit strainers to catch this. Of course the strainer gets blocked, and so needs flushing, but at least you've caught the crud and can flush it.

    Increase the pump speed by all means, and that should show an improvement, but I've £10 bet on something being choked (blend valve, automated valve, pump inlet, strainer).

    Also check that the balance valve (lockshield) on the other end of the rad from the TRV have been set properly, and not all closed down. One should be fully open (on longest part of CH run usually) with all the rest being appropriately more closed to balance the flow to rads.

    Likewise, check any other valve in the CH circuit are not closed down, eg. gate valves on either side of the pump.


    Thanks GreenPaddy, that's really useful. I've tried balancing, with as you said the furthest being fully open and a sliding scale back towards the TS.

    Interesting what you say about something being blocked. The galvanised headers tank does need cleaning out, but not sure if this is related to the CH or just the DHW. Tricky finding anyone who services TS stores, as most plumbers don't tend to!
  2.  
    Posted By: Benm85Yes, the rads are fed from the thermal store, as is the DHW.

    If both the CH and DHW are fed from the TS then at least one of four connections if not two or three must be indirect. I would expect the DHW to be indirect with the other 3 direct but you never know.
    Could you confirm which of the boiler, wood stove, DHW and CH is direct and which is indirect.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021 edited
     
    Posted By: Benm85Yes, the rads are fed from the thermal store, as is the DHW.
    One, at least, of those will be fed indirectly; that is, via a heat exchanger which might be internal to the thermal store (probably a coil but maybe tank-in-tank for the DHW) or externally in which case it's probably via a plate heat exchanger. Most likely the DHW is indirect. You wouldn't want to shower or do the washing up in water which has been through the radiators. I'm pretty sure that's what PiH meant by his question.

    (PS, PiH's response cross-posted ahead of mine by 14 seconds.)
  3.  
    Posted By: Ed DaviesMost likely the DHW is indirect. You wouldn't want to shower or do the washing up in water which has been through the radiators. I'm pretty sure that's what PiH meant by his question.

    Correct -but that doesn't stop the combi being indirect as well.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Posted By: Ed DaviesMost likely the DHW is indirect. You wouldn't want to shower or do the washing up in water which has been through the radiators. I'm pretty sure that's what PiH meant by his question.

    Correct -but that doesn't stop the combi being indirect as well.


    Posted By: Ed Davies
    Posted By: Benm85Yes, the rads are fed from the thermal store, as is the DHW.
    One, at least, of those will be fed indirectly; that is, via a heat exchanger which might be internal to the thermal store (probably a coil but maybe tank-in-tank for the DHW) or externally in which case it's probably via a plate heat exchanger. Most likely the DHW is indirect. You wouldn't want to shower or do the washing up in water which has been through the radiators. I'm pretty sure that's what PiH meant by his question.

    (PS, PiH's response cross-posted ahead of mine by 14 seconds.)


    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Posted By: Benm85Yes, the rads are fed from the thermal store, as is the DHW.

    If both the CH and DHW are fed from the TS then at least one of four connections if not two or three must be indirect. I would expect the DHW to be indirect with the other 3 direct but you never know.
    Could you confirm which of the boiler, wood stove, DHW and CH is direct and which is indirect.


    Apologies, I'm not sure what direct and indirect means. I'm not hugely well versed in plumbing (or much else other than Town Planning, but don't hold that against me!). The boiler and stove both go directly to the tank, they do not feed the CH or DHW directly not via the tank. It's a Gledhill 350 Torrent Sol http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/Gledhill/Torrent%20STAINLESS/Gledhill%20TORRENT%20STAINLESS%20OV%20SOL.htm
  4.  
    Posted By: Benm85I'm not sure what direct and indirect means.


    Direct and indirect
    Direct - the boiler heats water which is supplied to the tank and water from the tank then goes back to the boiler.

    Indirect - the boiler heats the water which is connected to a coil inside the tank and then goes back to the boiler. The water from the boiler never mixes with the tank water but heat is transferred through the copper pipe into the tank water. (there are plate heat exchangers that sit outside the TS but do the same function).

    The same can be used to take heat out of the tank - either take the hot water directly or (direct) or have a coil through which your water flows which is heated by the hot water in the tank. Again with a coil the tank water and the supplied hot water never mix (indirect).

    Transferring heat indirectly is less efficient than directly which is why boilers and CH are usually connected to the TS directly.

    Usually with your system the DHW is indirect and all the rest direct, however sometimes the combi boiler is connected to the TS indirectly to protect it from the crud that can (but shouldn't) come from the CH.

    Why are you not using the combi for DHW? Unless you have your own wood supply it will probably be cheaper to do the DHW with the combi and would produce much less pollution and you won't need to run the TS all year around (which will have its own additional inefficiencies)
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Should have probably explained, this system was in when we moved into the house 2 years ago. So none of this was my choice.....or fault!
  5.  
    Posted By: Benm85Should have probably explained, this system was in when we moved into the house 2 years ago. So none of this was my choice.....or fault!

    I guessed as much! but
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryWhy are you not using the combi for DHW? Unless you have your own wood supply it will probably be cheaper to do the DHW with the combi and would produce much less pollution and you won't need to run the TS all year around (which will have its own additional inefficiencies)

    Or is this now in plan?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021 edited
     
    The Gledhill TS use an external PHE to prepare the DHW. Central heating is direct. Solid fuel is direct. Gas boiler can either be direct or via a coil. Solar thermal (SOL variant of tank) is by a coil. There may well be one or two immersions.

    edit: Ben are you sure the link you gave is to the right product? Gledhill change their product range fairly frequently and introduced stainless tanks fairly recently. There should be a manual with the tank that gives the full details. I don't remember if there's a model no. printed on the tank (on the control unit maybe?). We have a Gledhill TS, but not quite the same model.
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021 edited
     
    Ok, so you've just mentioned that the TS won't/struggles to reach the 70oC setpoint. There could be an issue with the controller timings, set point stat location, or a physical issue with the TS coil arrangement. Your gas boiler should have no issue at all, keeping up with the CH energy draw. But taking things one at a time, that's quite separate from the rads having a large temp drop across them.

    1. Sort out the flow issue with the rads, to get them performing correctly, with a much reduced difference between inlet and outlet for each rad. Even on the lowest circ pump setting, you should get a decent flow through the rads. Indeed, I would have suggested you set the CH pump to the lowest setting, to minimise stirring inside the TS.

    2. In theory, since you would then be drawing more energy from the TS, the boiler will have even more difficulty keeping the TS up to set point.

    3. Then you can start to investigate how the boiler controls are set up. At 30kW+, if the boiler is allowed to, it will easily match the CH draw, and also raise the TS temp. So that tells me either the controls are not set up to allow the boiler to drive the TS temp up, or that the heat transfer to the TS (which we still need to determine if it goes via a coil inside the TS) is restricting how much energy it can input to the TS.

    We need a definite schematic/detail of the TS, to know if the gas boiler goes through a coil inside the TS, or into the main body of water. Your link implies the only coil is solar, with all other connections being to the main body of water, the DHW drawing that via an external plate heat exchanger (as DJH already pointed out).

    I've upped my bet to £20 that there are choked items, in both the CH and also the gas boiler circuit, and more than likely in the stove circuit too. The Stove will have a load valve of some sort (or a thermostatic mixing valve), to ensure it always receives warm water, which it then makes hotter. Those TMV's also have mesh strainers, which get choked, and reduce the flow from the stove - again a good reason for that stove to not be able to impact the TS temp.

    You'll see a low flow in the stove circuit exhibit itself by the outlet temp from the stove being much higher than the inlet to the stove. It would normally be say 5 to 10oC max difference. If the flow is restricted, the stove will be getting very hot, very quickly, and sending maybe 80oC or hotter water to the TS, even when the TS return to the stove is only in the 50's or 60's oC.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021 edited
     
    Posted By: djhThe Gledhill TS use an external PHE to prepare the DHW. Central heating is direct. Solid fuel is direct. Gas boiler can either be direct or via a coil. Solar thermal (SOL variant of tank) is by a coil. There may well be one or two immersions.

    edit: Ben are you sure the link you gave is to the right product? Gledhill change their product range fairly frequently and introduced stainless tanks fairly recently. There should be a manual with the tank that gives the full details. I don't remember if there's a model no. printed on the tank (on the control unit maybe?). We have a Gledhill TS, but not quite the same model.


    It was probably the wrong one I’m guessing then. This is the pic of the label on the TS
      F6B34F54-E583-400A-92E7-74BC07A0938D.jpeg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Thanks, that looks more like the generation of product that I have. So the description is at http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/Gledhill/Torrent%20Greenheat%20thermal%20store/Torrent%20Greenheat%20SOL.htm and the full manual seems to be this one https://www.gledhill.net/uploads/Torrent-GreenHeat-5.pdf if you don't have a paper copy. You'll still need to trace the plumbing connections to figure out how the boiler is connected but at least you'll be able to identify things.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Posted By: GreenPaddyOk, so you've just mentioned that the TS won't/struggles to reach the 70oC setpoint. There could be an issue with the controller timings, set point stat location, or a physical issue with the TS coil arrangement. Your gas boiler should have no issue at all, keeping up with the CH energy draw. But taking things one at a time, that's quite separate from the rads having a large temp drop across them.

    1. Sort out the flow issue with the rads, to get them performing correctly, with a much reduced difference between inlet and outlet for each rad. Even on the lowest circ pump setting, you should get a decent flow through the rads. Indeed, I would have suggested you set the CH pump to the lowest setting, to minimise stirring inside the TS.

    2. In theory, since you would then be drawing more energy from the TS, the boiler will have even more difficulty keeping the TS up to set point.

    3. Then you can start to investigate how the boiler controls are set up. At 30kW+, if the boiler is allowed to, it will easily match the CH draw, and also raise the TS temp. So that tells me either the controls are not set up to allow the boiler to drive the TS temp up, or that the heat transfer to the TS (which we still need to determine if it goes via a coil inside the TS) is restricting how much energy it can input to the TS.

    We need a definite schematic/detail of the TS, to know if the gas boiler goes through a coil inside the TS, or into the main body of water. Your link implies the only coil is solar, with all other connections being to the main body of water, the DHW drawing that via an external plate heat exchanger (as DJH already pointed out).

    I've upped my bet to £20 that there are choked items, in both the CH and also the gas boiler circuit, and more than likely in the stove circuit too. The Stove will have a load valve of some sort (or a thermostatic mixing valve), to ensure it always receives warm water, which it then makes hotter. Those TMV's also have mesh strainers, which get choked, and reduce the flow from the stove - again a good reason for that stove to not be able to impact the TS temp.

    You'll see a low flow in the stove circuit exhibit itself by the outlet temp from the stove being much higher than the inlet to the stove. It would normally be say 5 to 10oC max difference. If the flow is restricted, the stove will be getting very hot, very quickly, and sending maybe 80oC or hotter water to the TS, even when the TS return to the stove is only in the 50's or 60's oC.


    Thanks GreenPaddy. According to the label it’s a Gledhill TGH350 Sol. I’ve taken a look at some online manuals but from what I’ve read the boiler can be direct or indirect depending on what’s specified. Really struggling to figure out if it’s direct or indirect.

    The increase in flow rate does seemed to have helped tonight, but as you predicted, it’s impacting on the TS temp as it’s struggling to get above 60c with boiler and stove going, and only the down stairs heating on.

    I don’t suppose anyone knows a plumber in West Yorkshire who deals in such things?!
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Posted By: djhThanks, that looks more like the generation of product that I have. So the description is athttp://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/Gledhill/Torrent%20Greenheat%20thermal%20store/Torrent%20Greenheat%20SOL.htm" rel="nofollow" >http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/Gledhill/Torrent%20Greenheat%20thermal%20store/Torrent%20Greenheat%20SOL.htmand the full manual seems to be this onehttps://www.gledhill.net/uploads/Torrent-GreenHeat-5.pdf" rel="nofollow" >https://www.gledhill.net/uploads/Torrent-GreenHeat-5.pdfif you don't have a paper copy. You'll still need to trace the plumbing connections to figure out how the boiler is connected but at least you'll be able to identify things.


    Thanks djh, that’s really useful. I’ll look at that and see what I can figure out
  6.  
    Posted By: GreenPaddyThose TMV's also have mesh strainers, which get choked, and reduce the flow from the stove - again a good reason for that stove to not be able to impact the TS temp.

    You'll see a low flow in the stove circuit exhibit itself by the outlet temp from the stove being much higher than the inlet to the stove. It would normally be say 5 to 10oC max difference. If the flow is restricted, the stove will be getting very hot, very quickly, and sending maybe 80oC or hotter water to the TS, even when the TS return to the stove is only in the 50's or 60's oC.

    To make things clearer perhaps,the the inlet to the stove mentioned here is on the stove side of the TMV, the inlet from the TS is on the outside of the TMV.

    If there was a significant blockage in the TMV I would expect the boiler to boil if run on full chat.

    This assumes there is a TMV on the stove. If there is a TMV you will see a pipe taken off the stove output pipe doing to a block with three pipes going in, one from the stove output, one from the TS an the third going to the stove return. - In case you don't recognise the TMV for what it is. Its function is to mantain the temp. of the stove to keep the stove temp. up to reduce pollution and chimney fouling.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Posted By: GreenPaddyThose TMV's also have mesh strainers, which get choked, and reduce the flow from the stove - again a good reason for that stove to not be able to impact the TS temp.

    You'll see a low flow in the stove circuit exhibit itself by the outlet temp from the stove being much higher than the inlet to the stove. It would normally be say 5 to 10oC max difference. If the flow is restricted, the stove will be getting very hot, very quickly, and sending maybe 80oC or hotter water to the TS, even when the TS return to the stove is only in the 50's or 60's oC.

    To make things clearer perhaps,the the inlet to the stove mentioned here is on the stove side of the TMV, the inlet from the TS is on the outside of the TMV.

    If there was a significant blockage in the TMV I would expect the boiler to boil if run on full chat.

    This assumes there is a TMV on the stove. If there is a TMV you will see a pipe taken off the stove output pipe doing to a block with three pipes going in, one from the stove output, one from the TS an the third going to the stove return. - In case you don't recognise the TMV for what it is. Its function is to mantain the temp. of the stove to keep the stove temp. up to reduce pollution and chimney fouling.


    Just to check, is a TMV a thermostatic mixing valve? The only thing I can see on the stove is a thermostat connected to a pump which switches on when the stove is up to temp.
      AFFA751A-823F-4280-A844-84BFF7635230.jpeg
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Not all stoves have a TMV and it looks like yours may not if it has a pipe stat inhibiting the pump when the stove boiler cools down. The pump/stat may cycle on and off a bit as the stove warms up/cools down, but it will stop cool water circulating through the back boiler and cooling the stove excessively.
    • CommentAuthorListysDad
    • CommentTimeJan 25th 2021
     
    Interesting.

    Some questions if I may.

    - is the output from some radiators different to others?
    - do you have plastic pipework anywhere?
    - is the solar thermal system maintained / working fully?
    - are you SURE the store is full of water?
    - what is the condition of the F&E tank?
    - you talk about the store being set to 70oC but the PDF shared with us by DJH says when the boiler runs it should be to deliver 75oC. Why is yours at 70?

    I'm in Wetherby if it helps.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2021 edited
     
    Hi ListysDad, thanks for posting.

    Posted By: ListysDad- is the output from some radiators different to others?


    I would say heat output across the rads is even but without a thermometer I'm just judging that by touch.

    Posted By: ListysDadSome questions if I may.
    - do you have plastic pipework anywhere?


    There is a small bit of plastic pipping from an additional rad we had added, but issues with heating the store pre dated this addition.

    Posted By: ListysDad
    - is the solar thermal system maintained / working fully?

    Apologies, should have been clearer, the solar is not connected as it was never installed, so it just runs off the gas boiler and multi fuel stove.

    Posted By: ListysDad
    - are you SURE the store is full of water?

    I thought it was but not sure how I would check that. Is there someone of measuring or checking this?

    Posted By: ListysDad
    - what is the condition of the F&E tank?


    It’s a galvanised steel tank and from what I can see inside, there does appear to be some rusty debris in there. I would say it does need to cleared out. Not sure what would cause this, perhaps a lack of inhibitor? I’ve got a picture but don’t want to spoil anyone’s breakfast!

    Posted By: ListysDad
    - you talk about the store being set to 70oC but the PDF shared with us by DJH says when the boiler runs it should be to deliver 75oC. Why is yours at 70?


    You are correct, it should be at 75c and this has been changed now. However, it’s the fact it struggles to get to 70c let alone 75c. Once the CH starts (even just downstairs on the dual zone) with the boiler and stove going, it struggles to maintain 60c.

    Posted By: ListysDad
    I'm in Wetherby if it helps.


    Are you able to send me a DM? We are down in Saltaire.

    Cheers

    Ben
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2021
     
    Having a stat on the flow from the stove will not prevent it receiving a cold water input. Running a stove with a fixed temp stat from a thermal store is not very clever at all.

    Anyway Benm85, my recommendation is that you draw out your system on a piece of paper, and share it on here. Otherwise you'll get a whole host of different theories based on a whole host of different assumptions, and you'll end up more confused than you are now. You'll also understand our system much better at the end of it.
    • CommentAuthorBenm85
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2021 edited
     
    Posted By: GreenPaddyHaving a stat on the flow from the stove will not prevent it receiving a cold water input. Running a stove with a fixed temp stat from a thermal store is not very clever at all.

    Anyway Benm85, my recommendation is that you draw out your system on a piece of paper, and share it on here. Otherwise you'll get a whole host of different theories based on a whole host of different assumptions, and you'll end up more confused than you are now. You'll also understand our system much better at the end of it.


    I've taken a good look at the TS this morning, and the link below is definitely what is installed.

    http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/Gledhill/Torrent%20Greenheat%20thermal%20store/Torrent%20Greenheat%20SOL.htm

    The diagram in document is the same as mine, but minus the solar (as we don't have a solar thermal array), it uses an open vented boiler and no underfloor heating.

    According to the full manual (very usefully sent by djh), the open vented boiler heats CH direct, as does the solid fuel stove "an open vented boiler can be used to directly heat the store so that the energy will be available for both hot water and auxiliary central heating circuit.....The Torrent GreenHeat SOL is designed to be heated by one or more of the following heat sources;
    • Directly by an electric immersion heater as
    a backup heat source only
    • Either indirectly or directly by a remote gas
    or oil boiler [directly via OV Boiler]
    • Directly by a solid fuel boiler or stove • Indirectly by solar thermal system [not installed, yet!]

    DHW is done indirectly via external PHE, as pointed out by djh and according to the diagram.

    I'll have a go at amending the diagram from gasapplianceguide to take out the sealed boiler, solar array and underfloor heating so it looks the same.

    I should clarify the picture I took of the stat and pump is from the stove end, in a little cupboard that sits beside it. The stat sits on the solid fuel flow, I'm guessing to know when the water in the back boiler is up to temp and can open the valve next to the TS feed the tank?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2021
     
    Having a pipe stat on the flow pipe that inhibits the pump when the boiler is cold, is Dunsleys recommended way of wiring things. Unless youve got problems with excess soot in the fire or flue then I woulnt worry about minimum stove temperatures, so long as the stat setting is correct!
   
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