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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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Housing - New Build: Large Format Patio Doors/windows

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  1.  
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2013 edited
     
    Just got the first draft plans for our proposed new build to review.

    The architect has included a number of patio doors and this set me to wondering which is the best and most cost effective design of door to use in this situation, bi-fold, French windows, lift and slide patio doors (add other designs as appropriate)?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2013
     
    I've just gone through this Steve. I looked at everything UPVC, Aluminium, Imported stuff from the Baltic states, Alu clad timber, you name it and got quotes for most of it. In the end I opted for Sliding folding, (top hung) on one opening , and standard high quality hinged on another. All from the same source, so mouldings etc. matched. and all in oak. I was minded to go down the all aluminium route. Overall;- quality, and price, it's probably the cheapest, depending where you source it. The aesthetics ruled with me though and I opted for wood, but then I'm a woodworker and I'm biased. I just felt that I know the medium and of it goes wrong I can fix it.
  3.  
    The cost is in the mechanisms which are going to be bought in by nearly everyone. If you spend enough you can reach passive house performance with any.

    In order of cost - french windows -> lift and slide -> folding sliding.
  4.  
    Owlman, how did your sliding / folding doors work out? Would you recommend the manufacturer?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 28th 2013
     
    Not fitted yet, I'll let you know in a few weeks, I'm struggling with the roof at the moment. I eventually went with a local joinery firm. Initially I was going down the bottom rolling route but after talking with several firms they recommended the top hung as a better option. Most joinery companies use either Brio or Centor mechanisms although Henderson have now entered the field. They all seem very similar. One aspect I didn't like but had to accept was the lack of rebated meeting stiles which IMO would greatly add to the weather sealing. A couple of the alu. firms did it, but I seem to remember only one,- expensive, imported timber option had that feature. Most just rely on flush meeting stiles with double compression seals. I may well modify the design when I get round the the fitting. I opted to go local because I wanted input into the overall look and I could specify materials, stile and rail dimensions etc., and for the other doors in the project, the hardware.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 28th 2013
     
    Posted By: Simon Stillfrench windows -> lift and slide -> folding sliding

    There's also tilt-and-slide. I don't know where it comes in the price order.
  7.  
    My project is right next the sea, so I wanted a solution that will give a long lifespan in a sea air environment.
    - Neighbouring properties all have "rusting" stainless steel, wood work where the varnish needs super regular and good maintenance etc.
    I came across GRP windows and sliding doors from Yprado. Got a quote from them and it was a massive chunk cheaper than alu clad wooden alternative. They should also last a lot longer.
    • CommentAuthorGreenfish
    • CommentTimeOct 29th 2013
     
    Also by the sea so went with uPVC. The hinges will need annual maintenance to ensure they last (true of all units), but the frame is going to last for sure and you can get good prices for 3G if you search around. For air tightness I think you have to consider the sealing mechanisms - simple sliders wear so L&S or T&S, which pull the sash into the frame and seals when closed, seem the way to go.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 29th 2013
     
    Posted By: SilverSprayNeighbouring properties all have "rusting" stainless steel

    If you need to use stainless parts, be sure they are A4 rather than A2 (i.e. 316 instead of 304)
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2013
     
    Hi SilverSpray,

    I see on your blog that you have steel fixings on the bottom of your frame:

    http://www.silverspray.co.uk/2013/11/21/first-bit-of-the-frame-has-gone-up/

    Will they be exposed to the environment at all? Difficult to tell in that picture but they don't like they're stainless so I assume they'll be well protected. Is that right? If they're to be exposed I'd be interested to know what you used.

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