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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    How much do these things cost each?
    http://www.envirovent-specifier.com/heat-sava.php
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    Thanks Ed.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    Looks good. Anyone?
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013 edited
     
    If it's a supply and extract how would you do a whole house? They say you put them in kitchens and bathrooms but wouldn't you need one for each habitable room? Either way it appears to be a very cheap way to ventilate with heat recovery. But I expect very noisy at night in a bedroom.
    • CommentAuthorseascape
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    The other thing I would worry about is how does it ensure that the used air doesn't get sucked up into the incoming fresh air?
    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    I had these on the short list to go into my bathroom, but they just don't seem to be worth the extra money over the alternatives like the Vent-Axia models. I went with an HR-25H in the end.

    I really liked the look of the Heat-Sava (stupid name notwithstanding) and tried to find a reason to get one, but I just don't see why they cost so much more.

    Seascape: the supply and extract air on these single room units is directed away from each other to a certain degree, but there must be a certain amount of mixing. However, they do work effectively. Mine manages to control humidity throughout my (otherwise leaky) house pretty well.
    • CommentAuthorargy
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    I think they are about £350 each fitted - so I guess it depends on the number of rooms in your house. A lot of rooms would probably mean other ventilation options are cheaper. In addition there would be a number of extract pipes on the external walls that might not look that attractive

    I started with the thought of using Heatsava units on our new build but then moved onto the cheaper option of a PIV system with extractors (unfortunately Heatsava units cannot be used as they are balance units)
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013 edited
     
    Depends what you're comparing to I guess. They're a quarter the cost of a decent wholehouse MVHR or PVHR system.
    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    Posted By: ShevekDepends what you're comparing to I guess. They're a quarter the cost of a decent wholehouse MVHR or PVHR system.


    You can't really compare that, it's apples and oranges. These units aren't intended to be a whole-house solution for an airtight modern house. They're essentially a more eco-friendly alternative to conventional extractor fans for wet rooms.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    Yeah that's what wondered. Their webpage says "ideal for both refurbishment and new build installations."

    If you rely on these systems to ventilate your house, and they recover heat, then why is the outcome any different to a whole-house MVHR or PVHR system?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013
     
    Posted By: Seretthe alternatives like the Vent-Axia models. I went with an HR-25H in the end
    Don't think these operate on a 24/7, lo power, lo noise, trickle principle?
    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2013 edited
     
    Posted By: Shevek
    If you rely on these systems to ventilate your house, and they recover heat, then why is the outcome any different to a whole-house MVHR or PVHR system?


    You wouldn't rely on one as your primary source of ventilation, they just don't shift enough air.

    Posted By: fostertomDon't think these operate on a 24/7, lo power, lo noise, trickle principle?


    Yep, they do. The only real difference with the Heat Sava is that it's balanced, but IMO that's actually a negative for a single room HRV unit. Apparently it's quieter, but I've not actually heard one so I couldn't say. And I suspect every manufacturer will try and tell you theirs is the quietest.
    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2013 edited
     
    Posted By: argyI think they are about £350 each fitted


    I was quoted £450+VAT fitted, £359+VAT supply only back in Nov.
    • CommentAuthorargy
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2013
     
    I was quoted £350 installed (Justfans have them for sale for £285) - all plus VAT

    Does anyone have thoughts about a PIV system with proper extractor fans as an alternative ventilation system?

    Envirovent tell me they would be acceptable to Building Control (not yet tested though) without trickle ventilation as well, the system is cheap, there is minimal installation disruption and warm air on the landing will be moved around

    Can't see any recent threads about PIV
    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2013
     
    Ah, they've come down a bit then, good.

    PIV is always going to need a defined extract path, so an extractor fan would be the business. You'll lose more heat than a heat recovery system but they're cheaper and definitely effective. Warm air on the landing might be moved around, but it'll be getting displaced by plenty of not-so-warm air from outside.
  1.  
    You are all missing their USPs. Firstly, they have a steplessly increasing speed related to %RH hardwired in - this means no sudden huge increase in sound and no issues relating to setting the RH boost level twice each year - jolly good for social or rental housing too as the renters can't interfere with high humidity extraction when they put their washing on the rads :) Secondly, they have a summer bypass mode (only one other Single Rm HR unit has this I think). Thirdly, they can be fitted up to 600mm wide walls as they have 3 or 4 (can't remember) different sleeve lengths.

    I don't understand discussions about using for whole house or not - look at the Air Change figures compare to volume of your house = answer. Of course better to have where you would normally have extract on whole house - ie high humidity rooms. It is going to be cheaper than retrofitting a whole House solution up to medium sized house at least and this will be the subject of my next discussion.

    Same for noise. All single rm HR units are 20-24 dBs @ 3m. There is one HR Unit advertised for bedrooms (can't remember which one but is Vent Axia) but they stupidly didn't test its noise level on trickle - I am sure it is lower than 20db but only because it's sister unit has the same metrics except for air flow (ie uses same power for less air movement). 20-24dB is is unacceptable in a bedroom, or indeed lounge. It is possible to baffle (ie put in a box) and of course this would further improve efficiency as you would have to ensure segregation of in/out flowing air.

    Watch out when buying as there are still some of the old modelS knocking about.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2013 edited
     
    Posted By: SeretYou wouldn't rely on one as your primary source of ventilation, they just don't shift enough air.

    Right, but put enough in and they would. If we put one of these in every room of our refurb they'd be around a 1/3 price of the MVHR and PVHR systems we've been looking at.

    Problem as I see it is noise in bedrooms/living rooms.
  2.  
    Posted By: Shevekaround a 1/3 price of the MVHR

    Posted By: ShevekProblem as I see it is noise in bedrooms/living rooms.

    Exactly where I am at too, though there is a single rm ducted unit from Vent Axia which could be a Godsent if your building construction plays ball. The bedroom one I mentioned might be OK for a lounge but with that price difference it has surely got to be worth some unique-to-location clever boxing in DIY job. Whatdoyouthink?
    • CommentAuthoraviatrix
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2013
     
    Having caught up with a few threads I seem to be in a similar place to you on the thorny ventilation issue, Gotanewlife.

    We have old stone farmhouse stripped back to 4 walls and are adding substantial extension. But how to ventilate? We are using hemplime for internal insulation of old part and 400mm hemplime for construction of new part, so it should be relatively airtight, by definition.

    But not keen on MHRV due to all various issues iterated here. (It would seem that very few installations are functioning properly). We do have a disused chimney so I have been looking at the ventive for that part of the house (2 bathrooms). Thinking of that with a couple of heat savas, but put off by noise.

    We plan to avoid using materials that create indoor pollution but still need to address moisture beyond the buffering capability of the hemp mine. Had a totally passive systme in a previous build and would not go there again due to uncontrollability.

    Seriously tempted to chop more logs and open the windows and have done with it all.
    • CommentAuthorEnviroVent
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2013
     
    Good afternoon,

    I am the product manager for the heatSava here at EnviroVent and wanted to address a couple of concerns earlier posters had.

    We normally recommend fitting the heatSava Single Room Heat Recovery (SRHR) unit in kitchens and bathrooms. The unit can be fitted in bedrooms but this is not usually necessary. The unit operates at a background noise level of 22 decibels which is very quiet (even on boost, the heatSava operates with significantly less noise than other units on the market). The unit also has a ‘Night-time setback mode’ which reduces noisy nuisance running during the night.

    Regarding the recirculation of stale air – both the internal and external vents have been spaced and sized so that differences in airflow direction and velocity are created, and these prevent any significant recirculation from occurring. We have carried out airflow simulations that confirm that recirculation does not occur to any noticeable degree.

    The heatSava does cost more than some other products on the market, however there are numerous extra features & benefits that are unique to the heatSava:

    • Most importantly the heatSava is fully balanced meaning the same amount air is extracted and inputted. Units which are not fully balanced may give efficiency ratings that are inaccurately high.
    • The heatSava has a fully automatic Summer Bypass to prevent rooms from becoming too hot on warm days, and a Frost Protection system as standard for cold conditions.
    • The heatSava constantly tracks humidity and automatically increases extraction rates to keep pace with the increased humidity. This requires no user intervention.
    • The heatSava has a range of cell widths (100 and 150mm) and lengths (300, 430, 500, 600mm) which allows it to be easily retrofitted into a wide range of existing situations. The 100mm cell width is generally used in bathrooms whereas the 150mm cell is usually used in kitchens. Both units are available in low voltage versions.
    • Some other units on the market may experience problems with condensation in the heat cell. The heatSava has been designed so any condensate drains harmlessly to the exterior of the property.
    • The heatSava is exceptionally easy to maintain and clean unlike some other units which require the removal of the entire wall sleeve for cleaning.
    • The heatSava is built in our own factory in Harrogate, North Yorkshire allowing us to maintain our rigorous quality standards.
    • The heatSava has a renewable five year warranty and is part of our eco-friendly Lifetime Range.

    I hope this answers some of the queries. If anyone has any further questions please post here or give us a ring on 01423 810810.

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeMar 15th 2013
     
    Posted By: EnviroVent
    • The heatSava has a fully automatic Summer Bypass to prevent rooms from becoming too hot on warm days


    Do you advise people really leave these things running in summer? Once you've got the windows open the best "summer bypass" is the off switch, surely? IIRC the bypass doesn't operate until 25 degrees, and you'd have to wonder why anyone would want to be running heat recovery ventilation at that temperature.


    • Some other units on the market may experience problems with condensation in the heat cell. The heatSava has been designed so any condensate drains harmlessly to the exterior of the property.


    This is normally handled by simply angling the hole through the wall downwards slightly. Any properly fitted unit will drain to the outside, this isn't unique to Heat Sava.

    The Heat Sava does seem to contain several small iterative improvements over some of the existing units, but it's still basically the same animal IMO.
    • CommentAuthoraviatrix
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2013
     
    Can this product be modified at all to fit my 680mm walls?
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2013 edited
     
    Posted By: SeretDo you advise people really leave these things running in summer? Once you've got the windows open the best "summer bypass" is the off switch, surely?

    You'd need another source of background ventilation if you're going to turn them off. Relying on the opening of windows for background ventilation is a recipe for disaster (and doesn't meet building regs).
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2013
     
    Can't running in summer also be used for CRV (coolth recovery ventilation)?

    Bit of a concern regarding possible condensation in the inbound air path maybe leading to grow in the ducts. Is that what that HeatSava text is talking about?

    Still, I expect to leave my MHRV running in the summer. In a well insulated house in the north of Scotland with smallish windows overheating is not likely to be a big problem anyway. Opening windows just invites in midges and other critters whereas the MHRV will be filtered.
    • CommentAuthorSeret
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2013
     
    Posted By: Shevek
    You'd need another source of background ventilation if you're going to turn them off. Relying on the opening of windows for background ventilation is a recipe for disaster (and doesn't meet building regs).


    Don't be silly, opening the windows (and indeed doors) in summer is the norm, and ventilates perfectly well. That's why we open them, and why most domestic buildings in the UK don't have overheating problems or require HVAC. We just don't get hot enough that we need to do anything more than throw open some windows.

    I switch my SRHR unit off as soon as the weather gets nice enough to shower with a window open and RH levels are fine. I only need the thing at all to deal with the part of the year I've not got windows open.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2013 edited
     
    It might be fine if you understand what you're doing but I wouldn't be handing that out as advice to any old home owner. In an airtight building the implications of turning off the background ventilation and then forgetting to open windows is not good. Even if it was my own place I'd leave them on because I wouldn't be able to trust everybody else living here to manually manage background ventilation.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2013
     
    Posted By: SeretDon't be silly, opening the windows (and indeed doors) in summer is the norm…
    Yes, but leaky houses are the norm, too.
    • CommentAuthorseascape
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2013
     
    Also, depending on where you live, security could be an issue. Ok to leave windows open when you are in, but at night and when you are out?
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2013
     
    This issue of MVHR/window open is why I plan to have MVHR controlled by RH and CO sensors. If the windows are closed and either the RH or the CO levels are high it switches itself on, if the wondows are open OR the levels are not high there is no need for the MVHR to run. Simples
   
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