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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 18th 2012 edited
     
    :cry:
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 18th 2012
     
    The Wisconsin plumber gives a figure of 750Btus/sq ft = 2.364kWh/sq m for the average input from his FP panels over the winter season Oct - April. This is 40% higher than the 1.52kWh in your table. He is at 45 degree Latitude rather than 50 something for the UK and his panels are angled for winter sun at a 60 degree.
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 18th 2012
     
    No need to dig up the Wisconsin sand bed - just cut off the pipes if it doesn't work! But it would be better not to spend the effort if it isn't going to work. Calculation is difficult but cheaper if you know how.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJan 18th 2012
     
    I think its got to work but just to what degree.
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2012
     
    How much would 16.6sq m of solar panel cost, £10,000? Never mind combined PV/ST. Say the collection of heat a la Wisconsin raises the floor temperature too high until Dec/Jan in a mild autumn/winter so you have to "loose" the heat. Without calculation I don't see how one can be sure about this.
  1.  
    A quick look at Navitron's prices suggests you are looking at around £195/m2 inc. VAT for good quality vacuum tubes not including pumps and controls. If you take a look on ebay.de you will see complete packages which are about 25% cheaper than that.

    So you are looking at between about £2600-£3500 for that approx. panel area + installation (not inc. any tanks.)
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2012
     
    One GBF members house with interseasonal store:-
    http://www.tonyshouse.info/
  2.  
    Posted By: joe90
    Posted By: davidfreeboroughHowever, a solar slab requires that the solar store is entirely enclosed by insulation. All the papers I've seen where this approach has been shown to have a benefit have used earth, sand &/or stones entirely enclosed in 200mm+ of insulation.
    Thats not quite how Viking house has done it. see http://www.viking-house.co.uk/hydro-thermal-energy-store.html
    The Viking House solar store is entirely enclosed by insulation. Any other approach is doomed due to the relatively high conductivity of the earth, the huge surface area of all the possible heat paths & the length of time available between seasons

    Posted By: joe90Bella's post above about a simplistic approach really appeals to me, I will be getting a copy of the book asap. I will leave others here on the forum to "do the Math".
    I agree, but it doesn't seem to me that surrounding the inter-seasonal thermal store with insulation is inherently more complex. As Viking House points out, you need an extra layer of insulation between the store & the house to avoid overheating, but otherwise you're just re-positioning the insulation you'd need anyway.

    David
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2012
     
    The idea of insulating a block of ground under the house as an inter-seasonal thermal store seems easy enough, unless you have ground conditions where water seepage may be a potential problem. I looked at the idea closely when Viking House kindly published his work here, but for me the idea was ruled out by having water only a few feet down. Even a small flow of water through the underground thermal store would leach out all the heat pretty quickly. This would have meant making a watertight barrier around and under the insulation, in effect creating a sealed, insulated, soil-filled basement. It was at this point that I realised it probably wasn't a practical solution for me, although I think the idea is a good one when used in the right location.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2012
     
    Posted By: bellaAs Tony and the Viking await proof for their strategy of taking heat deepish into the ground without or with insulation one Bob Ramlov...


    Note, his name is Ramlow (with a 'w'). Search on the Book Depository with a 'v' didn't find his book but it was few pennies cheaper than Amazon once found. Ordered.
    • CommentAuthorbella
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2012
     
    If you are looking at between about £2600-£3500 for that approx. panel area, add the cost of pumps, controls, tank, PEX pipe and installation and I guess one would be quite pleased at a total of £10,000 - so long as it was well spent.

    And if "other approach is doomed due to the relatively high conductivity of the earth, the huge surface area of all the possible heat paths & the length of time available between seasons" are you saying that putting the summer heat down under the dwelling a few metres like Tony and the Viking is just an expensive way of creating a heat sink? I imagine that the Viking House dwellings have had a full analysis of heat losses/gains/temperatures over the season and that this predicts rises in the temperature of the subsoil as well as his slab. What the Viking does above the insulation is something very like the Wisconsin plumber's approach but the insulation is 4x thicker and he insulates above as well to prevent the surface getting too hot. The Wisconsin plumber relies on heat just leaking into the dwelling and presumably leaking into the surrounding earth at a greater rate all with minimal controls. The question is does this low tech approach work?
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2012
     
    AHHHHH, I misread Viking House's Solar slab comment and his diagram does not show the 100mm insulation between the solar slab and the floor slab. His diagram shows a heat sink dumping exccess summer heat into the ground below both similarly to Tonys house system.
  3.  
    Posted By: bellaAnd if "other approach is doomed due to the relatively high conductivity of the earth, the huge surface area of all the possible heat paths & the length of time available between seasons" are you saying that putting the summer heat down under the dwelling a few metres like Tony and the Viking is just an expensive way of creating a heat sink?
    I've not seen drawings of Tony's set-up, but where Viking House shows a coil heating the soil below the insulation, it is just that, a heat sink. The thermal store's heat exchanger is entirely above the lowest section of insulation.

    Think about all the possible parallel paths that the heat can take from below the slab to the outside. There is the most direct almost horizontal one, but there are a large number of more curvy paths which go progressively deeper & deeper before coming up outside the house. In cross section, the paths look like layers of half an onion, with the flat side against the underside of the floor insulation.

    Because the conductivity of the earth is relatively high, these other paths cannot be neglected. So you need to calculate the thermal resistance of each of the paths & integrate these together in parallel to get the total thermal resistance.

    To cut a long story short, if the house is well insulated, the ground will lose the heat long before the house gets to benefit from it.

    David
  4.  
    Just to go back to the discussion about heat losses through the edge of the slab and also about the wing insulation I've now got further information on the insulated slab system I will be using.

    You can see a diagram if you scroll down to the bottom of the page in the link.

    http://www.tjallden.se/sv/sidor/48/19/31/lagenergigrund.aspx

    There is a thermal break between the ring ream and the main slab, there's also 200mm of EPS below the ring beam rather than the normal 100mm and there is 1.2m of wing insulation around the whole slab.
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