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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthornjtkc
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2008
     
    we are limited on the ridge height increase with our barn conversion. the room in the roof style upper floor bedrooms will have a height restriction if we don't find the most efficient and space saving insulation around that complies with the building regs or better.... HELP
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2008
     
    Lower the floor then :smile: Please include way more insulation than the current minimum building regulations requirement.
    • CommentAuthorTuna
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2008
     
    Posted By: njtkcwe are limited on the ridge height increase with our barn conversion. the room in the roof style upper floor bedrooms will have a height restriction if we don't find the most efficient and space saving insulation around that complies with the building regs or better.... HELP


    Where are you based? We're restoring a listed barn, still going through the process of specifying the acceptable insulation, but expecting to externally clad the frame with kingspan foam insulation boards (then traditional weatherboarding over that). Originally we had specified multifoil insulation (our architect used it on his own barn conversion), but current thinking is that multifoil doesn't provide sufficient insulation to meet building regs. Our house suffers from the same ridge height restrictions (it musn't dominate the barn), so we're using SIPs which should minimise the intrusion of beams into the living space whilst giving best insulation.
    • CommentAuthorkmitchell
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2008
     
    Choice of minsulation will be determined by whether you are removing the external covering. If so then it's better to overclad the rafters and re-cover adds a bit to the ridge height but not enough for the planners to notice. If your're keeping the roof covering then its hard to get enough insulation in best I've seen is a mixture of multi-foil and PUR board. The arrangement has an agrement certificate and overcomes the current dislike of multifoil by themselves. It intrudes by about 50-60 mm if I remeber correctloy. Google multifoils and the agrement certificate comes up.
  1.  
    Hi........you may be interested in using Structural Insulated Panels, to replace the roof if this is possible. (No Trusses).

    If you want more information just ask, Good Luck
    • CommentAuthornjtkc
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2008
     
    thanks for comments....
    I'm not sure that i gave enough info... ridge height limit set by neighbours so no flexibilty to change it ..... and by covenant in the purchase contract.
    Floor already been lowered too much on one side as shows earth !!! so underpinning already required. we don't realy want to underpin whole building.
    Can't make any changes to outside so can only insulate inside....
    Planners decided that building of historic importance so must be recorded for heritage purposes...... but not listed.
    so minimal thickness with max performace on all insulation is imperative.
    The whole roof has to be replaced as increasing wall height.
    • CommentAuthorpatrick
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2008
     
    If you are replacing the roof what about combining a central flat roof with pitched roof at the sides. For the same ridge height as a pitched roof you get much higher/bigger ceiling space and much more room for insulation..
    • CommentAuthorludite
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2008
     
    Patrick, is that called a mansard style roof?
    • CommentAuthorpatrick
    • CommentTimeJul 17th 2008
     
    No I think, a mansard has the same steep pitch on the lower half but a shalower pitch for the top half.
    I am talking about a roof where the top shallow pitched half of a mansard is replaced with a flat roof. This enables you to screw the max room space out of a fixed ridge hight.
    From the ground this will look like a mansard roof and you dont have to deal with the shallow pitch which may limit your choice of tiles.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJul 17th 2008
     
    Funny, I knew the name for the double sloped roof like that but couldn't remember it when I noticed one while stuck in traffic this afternoon. However, the word I was thinking of isn't "mansard". A mansard roof has the double slope but is specifically a hip-roofed version. The word I was thinking of was "gambrel" which applies to gable-ended roofs. Thanks for reminding me to look: isn't Wikipedia wonderful, sometimes?
    • CommentAuthorDdraigGoch
    • CommentTimeAug 27th 2008
     
    Our barn conversion has in roof rooms and the beams were replaced and cut out lower down in 1990. This still leaves us with an insulation conundrum. In 1990 4" of polystyrene backed up with a breathable membrane and faced with ordinary plasterboard was considered well above the requirements, but now I'm faced with, despite it working extremely well, finding another way to ADD more insulation without taking everything out. I too would be interested in any advice.
    • CommentAuthorFred56
    • CommentTimeSep 4th 2008
     
    I did this a few years back on cow shed. I used Unipur panels which are similar to a SIP. It was easy once you work out how to handle them. The key seemed to be pre-drilling all the panels and planning the job carefully. The insulation is integral to the panel so the nasty job of cutting PU board to fit every space disappears. For one section of the building I used pre-faced panels which worked very well. If I had to do the same job again, this panel will be top of my list of options. Unilin are from Belgium. They delivered precisely on time (2.5 week from order) and everything was right.
    I don't like multi-foil, tried it, great idea, shame it doesn't work.
    • CommentAuthorSaint
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
     
    Njtkc,

    What dimensions are you actually going to be left with?
    You say you're replacing the roof, what depth will the rafters be? There's an option to put insulation between the rafters which then must have the obligatory 50mm ventialted void above the insulation. Its then a question of adding additional insulation beneath and across the lower face of the rafters with something like a thermal laminate i.e. plasterboard with insulation adhered to it. The better the insulation the thinner the build up (and greater headroom)
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