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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorTyrone_
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2022
     
    I'm filling the voids under suspended floors with EPS beads and need to seal the vents, which appear to be galvanized cast iron (they attract magnets). The vents date from the late 1960s.

    As you can see access is limited (just under 30mm) but I have 340mm long nozzles (for silicone etc cartridges) which could apply sealant to the vents.

    Which sealant might last longest? (Mastic, Tec 7 etc.)

    Any other ideas welcome.
      img20220822233301.jpg
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2022
     
    Is it possible to access them from the outside? Looks like daylight peeking through?

    If they are grilles, remove them, insulate with rigid board and foam it in place. Then refit the grille and repoint. If clay "solid" vents, still fill the holes from the outside. Only need enough to stop the beads coming out, and air washing in.
    • CommentAuthorTyrone_
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2022
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: GreenPaddy</cite>Is it possible to access them from the outside? Looks like daylight peeking through?

    If they are grilles, remove them, insulate with rigid board and foam it in place. Then refit the grille and repoint. If clay "solid" vents, still fill the holes from the outside. Only need enough to stop the beads coming out, and air washing in.</blockquote>
    Yes there is very good access from outside.

    How do you remove the grill?
      img20220822233611.jpg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2022
     
    Hit it with a club hammer !
    • CommentAuthorTyrone_
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: tonyHit it with a club hammer !

    :bigsmile:
  1.  
    I would be inclined to leave it as it is and fill the gaps with mortar using a pointing trowel or similar pushing the mortar up to fill the vents.

    Or just render over the whole thing - the quicker option
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeAug 24th 2022
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryI would be inclined to leave it as it is and fill the gaps with mortar using a pointing trowel or similar pushing the mortar up to fill the vents.

    Or just render over the whole thing - the quicker option


    There might be an issue with mortar/render adhering to the metal. I would remove it entirely., insulate what you can behind and brick it up. EWI is definitely the best way IMHO
  2.  
    Posted By: Jonti
    There might be an issue with mortar/render adhering to the metal. I would remove it entirely., insulate what you can behind and brick it up. EWI is definitely the best way IMHO

    Mortar should be OK as it should adhere in much the same way that plaster adheres to laths in a lath and plaster wall that is uses the gaps as a key. IMO removing and bricking up and insulation is not needed as the floor void to which this vents is to be filled with EPS beads and the blocking of the vent is only to stop air inflow.
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeAug 24th 2022
     
    Hi PiH,

    maybe you are correct only my experience is that mortar often struggles to remain stuck to metal during the winter when the metal gets colder than the surrounding wall. Though even if there is no problem for the small amount of effort, time and money it seems sensible to replace the vent with a brick..
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