Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.
Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
 Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




Housing - Renovation: Making the best of this window install onto the outer leaf

Bottom of Page

1 to 17 of 17

  1.  
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 17th 2019
     
    See the piccie...

    The room happens to be dot and dab plasterboarded. There is no "air tight layer" so to speak, certainly not a designed one, but I want to make this as good as possible.

    The window is installed on the outer leaf with an Iso Chemie expanding foam tape. You can see the white plastic internal film for this slightly underneath the window.

    My current thought is that the only way to make this better is to:

    - Chop back the p'board at the head and reveals
    - Tape from window to reveal
    - Wet plaster over (although I would also like an insulating p'board on the inside if that were possible)

    Does my plan work, or might there be an easy way?

    I do realise that even if the window is nicely sealed in there's air getting (probably) past the Iso Chemie into the cavity then through the blockwork into behind the p'board, but I can't fix that right now. I just want to do the right job for now. Maybe I shouldn't do anything, and just address the AT when we remove *all* of the p'board?
      IMG_20190816_174532.jpg
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 17th 2019 edited
     
    Another picture.

    I have filled what holes I can in the dot and dabbing btw, but only at the window opening.
      IMG_20190817_123116.jpg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 17th 2019
     
    From my website, might be worth looking at

    Carefully filling the space between the wall (note the use of thermally bridging bricks again) and the plasterboard with polystyrene beads, tapping the plasterboard to help the beads settle. This works thousands of times better than foil radiator deflectors.

    Scroll down to find it with pics

    https://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/basic-techniques/walls-and-windows/
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 19th 2019
     
    Thanks Tony - so cutting back the entire reveal. How do you get an air tight seal between plasterboard and window frame? Do you use any kind of bead between the frame and plaster board (or skim)?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 19th 2019 edited
     
    I use bound edges of plasterboard stuck to the frame with acrylic sealant and fully bonded the the blocks. No bead and skim plaster but already sealed. Some people use tapes, I have used strips of poly taped to the window frame, then wet plastered in with EML to form hermetic seal in the old days in the last century
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 19th 2019
     
    Thanks! :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 19th 2019 edited
     
    Tony I noticed there's no seal from the bottom of the window across the cavity - you could still have leakage from the cavity over the top of the brickwork and under the window board. Did you consider that?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 19th 2019
     
    Yes, it was filled with squinty foam and sealed with painters mate, it wasn’t mine, mine are on tonyshouse website.
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeAug 20th 2019
     
    gravelled - is the first issue not to close off the cavity, which even building regs require, if only from a fire spread in cavity concern. (if that's completely obvious, and you're already filling the cavity and sealing around the entire opening, apologies).

    Assuming it's a vented, or even ventilated cavity, that's where the air will be coming from, so the entire internal block wall is effectively seeing outside air, never mind getting behind the plasterboard. Once that's solved, then taping to the window frame, with plasterboard over (locking the tape), or silcone, or glue as per Tony, is the next and "icing on the cake" step.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 20th 2019
     
    I think you're right in principle, but this is a refurb and AFAIK BC don't care.

    One of my original plans was to use cavity closers and paint them in either side of the cavity with Blowerproof.

    However, in some of the cases the outer leaf appears to be below the inner leaf, and we already have the Iso Chemie foam expanded against the outer leaf, so I think it will be tricky to wedge the CCs in there.

    Please, do let me know if there's something I'm overlooking.

    Posted By: GreenPaddy
    Assuming it's a vented, or even ventilated cavity, that's where the air will be coming from, so the entire internal block wall is effectively seeing outside air, never mind getting behind the plasterboard.


    The existing cavities are full fill mineral wool (except for one we've found with *nothing* at all, have a survey to get this pumped next week). Some have pathetic loose fitting CCs on the reveals but nothing on the bottom. Some have the cavity closed with bricks/blocks. TBH pretty much every opening is different in some way or another!

    The wool will slow down the air leakage but certainly not eliminate it I agree, and it's a real eye opener how bad block work can be when you see the holes I can see through the window openings.

    This is partly why I asked if I should even be bothering, part of me thinks we should do the bare minimum and look to rip out all the dot and dab later, then properly wet plaster.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 20th 2019
     
    Go for it and wet plaster now
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 21st 2019
     
    Tony (or anyone), what's the best way you've found for removing a plasterboard reveal, trying to minimise dust?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2019
     
    Posted By: tonysquinty foam
    Is that the semi invisible type?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2019
     
    Sorry must switch off predictive — if only I knew how

    Squirty

    Re removing reveal linings, a flat blade garden spade or roughneck flooring lifter, aim between the blobs and the blocks, put a board in front of frame first to mitigate disasters
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2019
     
    Thanks Tony. If the insulation board is fitted at the reveal, this means it's going to be proud of the original plasterboard. So does that mean you cut back the reveal on the face facing the room, and fit a new angle bead?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2019
     
    Basically yes
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2019
     
    Thanks.

1 to 17 of 17

  1.  
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
Back to Discussions Top of Page
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press