Green Building Forum - considering spray foam for wall insulation Tue, 19 Dec 2023 04:47:30 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199143#Comment_199143 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199143#Comment_199143 Sat, 29 Mar 2014 14:41:04 +0000 mr_magicfingers
Currently, the options seem to be blockwork with insulated plasterboard glued to the block or 2x6 studwork on 60cm centers filled with either mineral wood, celotex or spray foam and with gyproc on the inside.

Blockwork is quick and fairly cheap but the insulated plasterboard is expensive. studwork is cheap but celotex infill is a lot of work and expensive and time consuming. Mineral is cheap but fiddly. Sprayfoam such as icynene is fast but expensive, so I need to weight those up.

Does anyone have experience using icynene for walls like this or have any thoughts on my other options?]]>
considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199146#Comment_199146 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199146#Comment_199146 Sat, 29 Mar 2014 15:00:32 +0000 tony considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199147#Comment_199147 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199147#Comment_199147 Sat, 29 Mar 2014 15:25:46 +0000 SteamyTea considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199150#Comment_199150 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199150#Comment_199150 Sat, 29 Mar 2014 16:11:01 +0000 markocosic
I'm looking at similar for a 10 x 6 metre (30' by 18') flat roofed garage under PD. The standing-seam-lookalike roof panels come in 140 mm insulation thickness, span 3 metres between portal frames with ease/no purlins, and are rated for a 1.5 degree pitch. Then use secret-fix architectural wall panels for the walls. Supplier here:

http://www.griffithsandson.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Tractors.html

This is the standard roof stuff:
http://www.kingspanpanels.co.uk/panels/products/insulated-roof-panels/trapezoidal-rw/

They also do the "standing seam" version that's officially supported down to 1.5 degrees pitch:
http://www.kingspanpanels.co.uk/standing-seam-systems/kingzip-ip/kingzip-ip.aspx/

Architectural wall panels are the same price (except louvre and curve walls that nobody wants which are £12+VAT)
http://www.kingspanpanels.co.uk/panels/products/insulated-wall-panels/architectural-wall-panels/

Over-clad with a timber of your choice if you don't like the colours/style available. If fitted horizontally, the wall panels give a lot of racking stiffness to the portal frames. If you're splitting the building up along the ridgeline then your steels will be very slender indeed; lots and lots of headroom.]]>
considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199151#Comment_199151 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199151#Comment_199151 Sat, 29 Mar 2014 16:40:57 +0000 Nick Parsons considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199152#Comment_199152 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199152#Comment_199152 Sat, 29 Mar 2014 16:44:27 +0000 PeterStarck considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199157#Comment_199157 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199157#Comment_199157 Sat, 29 Mar 2014 18:15:20 +0000 jamesingram cheers]]> considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199170#Comment_199170 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199170#Comment_199170 Sat, 29 Mar 2014 22:12:32 +0000 markocosic
Consider the danish farmer passivhaus approach: sandwich panels for the weathertight/airtight/partial insulation layer; batten and infill internal insulation at a later date. Also cheap:

http://hus.mardal.dk/
http://www.mardal.dk/hus/index3.html]]>
considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199180#Comment_199180 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199180#Comment_199180 Sun, 30 Mar 2014 08:30:46 +0100 PeterStarck considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199213#Comment_199213 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199213#Comment_199213 Sun, 30 Mar 2014 18:06:39 +0100 mr_magicfingers
I'd probably still have to stud and plasterboard the interior as, being a workshop, stuff with be hung on the walls. If I'm doing that, it might be better to just do 2x6 stud and sprayfoam, you get the strength of wall and insulation.

If I did that, I don't know if I can batten and board straight onto the studwork with a housewrap layer around the studwork. Not sure if icynene would work like that, will have to make some enquiries.]]>
considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199223#Comment_199223 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199223#Comment_199223 Sun, 30 Mar 2014 21:48:46 +0100 markocosic
Internally you are more limited. Personally I think it is a good thing. Sockets etc can be run with surface boxes/trunking and self tapping screws and/or sikaflex bonded straight to the (finish painted) steel skin. Hang airlines and heavy gear off the steel portal frame. Avoid hanging anything else from the walls like the plague though - kills flexibility/utility of the space unless your needs are very very routine.

Instead use mobile "carts" that roll around on the concrete floor, with each cart having a "back board" that all the tools etc hang from. See the "Whalen" stuff that Costco sells for inspiration. The 48"x18"x6' steel framed/250kg per shelf "Whalen" shelves at Costco for 48 quid a set are difficult to beat for storage. Use ALCs (attached lidded crates) for bulkier less frequently used items. The 600x400x320 ones are a one man lift and a tenner or so new. The 78 litre ones designed for office moves are a two man lift. They stack safely as high as you can lift them and wheeled dollies are available for moving the stacks around. 35 litre "really useful boxes" work best on the Whalen shelves; 3 per shelf; pay around 7 quid each inc VAT for clear ones.

For smaller jobs fit rolling toolboxes with worktops and vices, and take the toolbox to the job rather than the job to the tools nailed in an awkward place on the wall. Over-centre catches mounted on the steel portal frame, or rails bolted to the floor that take T-nuts like a milling machine (or the wheelchair restraints for minibuses/rigging mountings for boats/pickup truck bed attachments) can be used to secure stuff to the floor in various locations if you *really* need to lean on something hard. These can also be used for movable walls. Keep say a "+" of all at the centre of the building to reduce roof loads etc, but have the other walls as lightweight studwork panels that can be rolled along the steelwork at eaves/apes and secured to the floor in any position along the building to maximise flexibility of the space.

If you don't want expensive rails, cut a "bowtie" into a piece of box section steel. Looks like: =0= as a hole. You embed this in the concrete slab at intervals (welding to the rebar is good) with a small sponge stuck inside the hole to stop it filling up with concrete. Drill it out/pull out the sponge when the slab has set and you can drop a "T" shaped tool in there (a piece of stud with a bar welded across the end) in order to anchor things to it at a later date. Keep sponges or caps of some description handy to reduce the amount of muck that blocks these. No good if washing the area down regularly but could be handy in some circumstances. Pukka recessed rails are nicer. Can go fancy and embed a threaded thing in the concrete but these usually fill with muck.]]>
considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199226#Comment_199226 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=199226#Comment_199226 Sun, 30 Mar 2014 23:59:48 +0100 djh
http://www.strawworks.co.uk/

but I don't suppose that URL will point at the Cropredy build for very long. Perhaps they'll make a more permanent one?]]>
considering spray foam for wall insulation http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=215647#Comment_215647 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11910&Focus=215647#Comment_215647 Sun, 21 Dec 2014 20:29:14 +0000 Davewalsh2020
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