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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeMay 27th 2010
     
    This unit is not very efficient (70% claimed) and uses a significant amount of power 18W low, 30W high, but it has two advantages for me:
    1. its quite small so may well fit above my bathroom ceiling
    2. its cheap (<£200), and as I need a decent extractor fan anyway the extra for HR is quite small

    It would be used for extracting stale damp air from a small shower room, and would vent fresh into the adjacent (huge) living room.

    Would the efficiency and power consumption tip the balance into energy consumption, rather than energy saving?
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeMay 27th 2010
     
    I have my eye on the vent-axia units as well.

    Provided they are used mainly as an extractor, and only runs for an hour or two a day, I don't see the problem with it using a few Watts. A normal extractor would take a similar amount of power *and* throws away loads of heated air.
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeMay 27th 2010
     
    I think the general idea is that they run constantly, although we wouldn't do that as the building would not be used every day, so would probably have the trickle on a timer of some sort.
    • CommentAuthorevan
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2010
     
    I just got one of these on ebay - 275 including insulated flexible ducting and air terminals and vents. I will use it instead of a conventional bathroom extractor, putting fresh air into the two adjacent bedrooms, so pretty short duct runs. I assume this means I can legally not have trickle vents on those rooms...
    • CommentAuthorjemhayward
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2010
     
    I've now got one and although its not properly installed yet, its ducted in and working well. It could be quieter, though I think it will be fine once boxed in. Just need to sort out where the ducts will go.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2010
     
    Back of the envelope calculation...

    Google says that the HR100 can shift 77m3/h = 21L/s
    Volumetric heat capacity of air is 1.3 Joules per cubic litre per Kelvin (Centigrade)
    If the air indoors is 20C and outdoors 5C then Delta T is 15C

    Power lost by exporting that volume of heated air per second is 21 x 1.3 x 15 = 409W

    If the unit is 75% efficient then roughly 0.75 x 407 = 306W is recovered for every 30W expended in the motor.

    Sounds ok even if it's a half or a quarter as good as claimed.
    • CommentAuthorstephendv
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2010
     
    I'm not sure which units to go for, the HR100 or 2 x HR25. The HR25 are more efficient, only use 2 W on trickle but still shift 20m3/h extract and 8m3/h intake. It will be for an off-grid house so every W of electricity is more valuable than a W of heat. The only problem with the HR25 is that it's unbalanced, almost 3x as much extract as supply, but I need balanced as this will be for whole house application. Do you think it would be possible to boost the supply by sticking an external fan in front of it? A cheap computer fan should do the trick.
    • CommentAuthorRobur
    • CommentTimeDec 2nd 2010
     
    Hi jemhayward,

    We are just about to install 3 x HR100's in a new build house project (bathroom extract) - rather than having them run all the time we are going to control them with a humidistat to reduce the energy consumption, noise and wear to a minimum - they only need to be on when the humidity is above say 70%.

    Something like:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Xpelair-21856AW-humidistat-controller-/200535651089?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item2eb0db3311

    or

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110619308687

    or

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VENT-AXIA-56-3501C-HUMIDISWITCH-HUMIDISTAT-NEW-/250728359880?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item3a609327c8
  1.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: stephendv</cite>I'm not sure which units to go for, the HR100 or 2 x HR25. The HR25 are more efficient, only use 2 W on trickle but still shift 20m3/h extract and 8m3/h intake. It will be for an off-grid house so every W of electricity is more valuable than a W of heat. The only problem with the HR25 is that it's unbalanced, almost 3x as much extract as supply, but I need balanced as this will be for whole house application. Do you think it would be possible to boost the supply by sticking an external fan in front of it? A cheap computer fan should do the trick.</blockquote>
    We couldn't consider the HR25 as our walls are too thick and difficult to penetrate so the HR100 was the only option. We may not run it constantly long term, but for now, with the building still potentially damp from plastering etc, its running full time and the place is amazingly warm. Our dehumidifier is running 24/7 too and RH is now down to about 50 on average which is plenty dry enough.

    I do like the idea of humidity control, we have this on the bathroom fan in the main house and it works well, though can run all day some days!
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeMar 24th 2011
     
    I just noticed this single room unit:
    http://www.envirovent.com/downloads/LOW_retrovent.pdf

    It's similar to the HR25, but more balanced intake & exhaust.
    "Whisper quiet". I wish they'd say what that meant in dBa.
    Can't see a price.
    • CommentAuthorFred56
    • CommentTimeMar 24th 2011
     
    Most of these single room units seem limited to very thin walls such as 315mm. My new build will have 400mm walls.

    The idea of decentralised system appeals to me. A low power unit responding to humidity in wet rooms and CO2 in others would be much easier to install. They only need wires instead of fat ducting. Can such a decentralised system meet AD F 2010 without the need for trickle vents?
    • CommentAuthorjanzon
    • CommentTimeJun 21st 2011
     
    I am thinking of installing a HR100R in the loft above two bedrooms, extracting from the larger and returning to both of them.
    As the gable end walls in the loft are 600 mm stone, the only way outside is through the slate roof. I came across

    http://www.sandpipersupplies.co.uk/shop/buy/Klober/Uni_Line_Low_Profile_Slate_Vent/

    when looking for solutions and wondered if is the kind of thing I need and if anybody has any experience with this kind of vent. Can they be retrofitted to a slated roof and if so what is the best way of doing it?
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2014
     
    Posted By: evanProvided they are used mainly as an extractor, and only runs for an hour or two a day, I don't see the problem with it using a few Watts.


    Posted By: RoburHi jemhayward,

    We are just about to install 3 x HR100's in a new build house project (bathroom extract) - rather than having them run all the time we are going to control them with a humidistat to reduce the energy consumption, noise and wear to a minimum - they only need to be on when the humidity is above say 70%.


    Posted By: jemhaywardI do like the idea of humidity control, we have this on the bathroom fan in the main house and it works well, though can run all day some days!

    These units are meant to run continuously. Otherwise what's supplying fresh air to the room it's meant to be supplying? The humidity switch switches between high/low rather than on/off.
    • CommentAuthordb8000
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2014
     
    Whoah! What's the GBF record for answering an old thread?

    :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2014
     
    Heh, that's why I love forums over mailing lists. Threads never have to die.
    • CommentAuthordb8000
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2014
     
    It's a shame that this board doesn't send out reminder emails to previous posters as there's lots of threads on which it would be great to hear how it went, several years later.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 29th 2016
     
    So we have this HR100 up and running now but it seems too powerful. It cools the loft conversion down considerably when on continuously. Is there any way to adjust the fan speed down? I don't have terminal covers on the room extract and inlets yet, will this make a big difference?
  2.  
    I thought this has 2 speeds - possibly set on boost continuously from an internal jumper???
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeMar 29th 2016
     
    Yes two speeds, but not stuck on boost.
  3.  
    you could try a varible fan speed controller maybe , you need to reduce the power going in prior to boost etc.
    • CommentAuthorShevek
    • CommentTimeApr 2nd 2016
     
    Posted By: jamesingramyou could try a varible fan speed controller maybe , you need to reduce the power going in prior to boost etc.

    In addition to the normal/boost humidistat?
  4.  
    Yes , something to reduce the input current
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